Luxury fashion brand Christian Dior might not be the first thing that springs to mind when you think of the Isle of Lewis.
But Maria Grazia Chiuri, the label’s creative director, has put one of the most far-flung corners of the British Isles on the global fashion map after falling in love with Harris Tweed Hebrides.
Starting life in a derelict mill, the island-based manufacturer has enjoyed a stratospheric rise to success over the past 17 years, turning over £9.1 million last year.
To find out the secret to the island firm’s global success, we spoke to Margaret Ann Macleod, 51, about her inspirational journey from being a carefree young islander to taking the helm as the first female chief executive of the Shawbost based company.
Harris Tweed is the fabric of Margaret Ann’s life…
Born and bred in Carloway, just six miles from the mill, Harris Tweed, the only fabric in the world to be governed by its own act of parliament, has always been firmly woven into the fabric of Margaret Ann’s life.
“Harris Tweed has been a major part of the island economy for so long,” says Margaret Ann.
“As a child, I remember it as a place of work that so many people relied on.
“There were two mills close to where we lived but I had a closer relationship with the weaving process rather than the mill operation.”
Weaving is part of life on the Isle of Lewis…
Brought up by her mother Cathy Ann, a care assistant, and her father Calum Iain, who worked for the local council, Margaret Ann can remember weaving being a huge part of life.
“I was certainly surrounded by weavers and weaving as a child,” says Margaret Ann.
“My father had learned to weave as a young man with his father, my grandfather.
“When my father took early retirement in his early fifties, he started weaving again and I also have memories of two of my uncles weaving at my granny’s house.”
‘Harris Tweed was close to my heart’
Surrounded by creativity, Margaret Ann soon developed a love of sewing and after leaving school she decided to study for a degree in consumer product management at Robert Gordon University in Aberdeen.
“It was basically a home economics degree as I loved textiles and food technology so I had aspirations to teach home economics.”
But in her final year of university, Margaret Ann decided that she wanted to focus on textiles so she embarked on a Masters degree in clothing management at Heriot-Watt University in Galashiels.
“I loved it especially as I chose Harris Tweed as the subject for my dissertation,” says Margaret Ann.
“It was something that was so close to me so it made sense to focus on it.”
From Topshop to Johnsons of Elgin…
After graduating, Margaret Ann’s career started in Mackays, a clothing firm based in Paisley, before taking up an exciting role at Topshop’s buying office in London.
“At that time Topshop were in their heyday,” says Margaret Ann.
“It was a very exciting time in the nineties.”
From there, Margaret Ann went on to work at the award-winning cashmere firm Johnstons of Elgin.
“It was very exciting as Johnstons of Elgin is such a prestigious, heritage company in terms of world textiles,” says Margaret Ann.
“At that time I was working with James Sugden who was their managing director.
“He was a very famous textile manufacturing gentleman who sadly passed away a little bit too early.
“It was a pleasure to work with him.”
Returning to her roots on the Isle of Lewis
But island life beckoned again when Margaret Ann started her family.
“My job involved a lot of travelling so I decided to relocate back to the island when I started my family,” says Margaret Ann.
“So after having my daughter Samantha, who is now 18, I worked for Highlands and Islands Enterprise for a couple of years.”
One of the proudest moment of Margaret Ann’s life happened in 2013 when she was recruited by Harris Tweed Hebrides.
“It was a real honour as the fabric has been around for many generations and has been recognised as a brand since 1910,” says Margaret Ann.
“Harris Tweed Hebrides had only started in 2007 so they were a new start company in the world of Harris Tweed.
“They were still finding their feet and growing as a business at that time so it was a very exciting time to be joining.”
From derelict mill to successful global business…
Despite a challenging economic backdrop, Margaret Ann says there was a deep-rooted belief that the company would be a success.
“Harris Tweed Hebrides started in a derelict mill as a new start-up and it coincided with the global financial crash in 2008,” says Margaret Ann.
“But there was a real belief from the people behind the company and the people who were working for the business that there was still an opportunity for Harris Tweed to be a globally recognised fabric and that’s really what drove the company.”
With her vast experience in the textile manufacturing and retail industries, Margaret Ann knew the possibilities were limitless.
“I was hopeful that I could continue the journey of pushing forward with Harris Tweed Hebrides and growing the company,” says Margaret Ann.
‘We never rest on our laurels’
To say Harris Tweed Herbides has grown since then would be an understatement as the company now has 70 people employed as well as a network of over 100 island-based home weavers.
Asked what she thinks the secret is to their success, Margaret Ann says it’s the fact that the company never rests on its laurels and always strives for excellence.
“We’re a slow textile which is similar to slow cooked food where each and every stage is critical to the manufacturing process,” says Margaret Ann.
Using historic artisanal craft skills that have remain unchanged for over 100 years, every individual wool fibre is dyed and spun in the Shawbost Mill while every yard of Harris Tweed Hebrides cloth is handwoven in the croft home of a Harris Tweed weaver.
‘You can’t sit and wait for customers to come to you’
Renowned for their impeccable attention to detail, a team of cloth finishers then check every yard of cloth by eye, to ensure the fabric is ready for market.
From clothing and shoes to handbags and home interiors, the iconic fabric, made from 100% British wool, is is in demand across the world.
“The UK in itself is our one biggest market,” says Margaret Ann.
“We’re also doing very well in the USA and in France, Germany and Italy as well as Japan and South Korea.
“We do travel a lot as a sales team to make sure we’re getting into market.
“You can’t sit and wait for customers to come to you, you have to be out there and showing your fabrics and presenting yourself at the right events.”
Harris Tweed Hebrides and Christian Dior…
Some of the biggest names in the fashion world are now working with Harris Tweed Hebrides including Ralph Lauren, Vivienne Westwood and Christian Dior who used the fabric in its star-studded catwalk show at Drummond Castle near Crieff back in the summer.
“Maria Grazia Chuiri, the creative director of Dior, came to the island and to the mill last year,” says Margaret Ann.
“All credit to the light that she has shone on Scottish textiles and Harris Tweed Hebrides.”
Other famous visitors to the mill include Sir Billy Connolly and Princess Anne.
“Sir Billy Connolly was really lovely and super friendly,” says Margaret Ann.
“We’ve also had Princess Anne at the mill who is a great supporter of all things British textiles.”
Hopes and dreams for the future…
Looking to the future, Margaret hopes that Scottish textile manufacturing is preserved and promoted for generations to come.
“Sometimes we don’t have the profile of other industries like construction, oil and gas and food and drink,” says Margaret Ann.
“So it’s about ensuring that we can help to preserve where we are now.
“We also have to ensure that we have an attractive business for young people to come into.”
Next year, as well as continuing to drive the business forward, Margaret Ann also hopes to spend more time with her daughter and fit in a well deserved holiday.
“In a job where you travel a lot sometimes the thought of travelling for a holiday is not appealing,” says Margaret Ann.
“But a holiday and some relaxation would be nice.”
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