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Aberdeen fish firm John Ross on battling rising costs and keeping tradition alive

Torry-based smoked salmon producer John Ross Jr gets a royal seal of approval and enters 2025 with expansion plans.

john ross aberdeen
Christopher Leigh, right, and his father, Andrew, carrying out a quality check on John Ross Jr's salmon after the firm wins one of its two Queen's Awards.

Historic Aberdeen smoked salmon producer John Ross Jr has plans for further expansion following a new Royal Warrant being granted by the King.

The iconic smoked salmon producer plans to ramp up production as it expands its footprint throughout Europe.

The firm will also continue to strengthen its sales team to support a growing product range.

Meanwhile, John Ross has once again been granted the Royal Warrant of Appointment as fish merchant and curer to King Charles III, continuing a relationship with the British royal family that spans more than 30 years.

Christopher Leigh, CEO of John Ross, says the honour is a “privilege beyond measure.”

He said: “This recognition inspires us to remain at the forefront of our craft, upholding the heritage and excellence that define John Ross.”

Aberdeen kilns: A cultural landmark

Ross’s red-brick kilns, which are used to smoke the company’s salmon, date back to 1857 and have been listed by Historic Scotland for their cultural significance.

It’s rare that the kilns, which have survived through the 20th and 21st centuries, continue to fulfil their original function.

The salmon smoked at Sinclair Road is sent throughout the UK to fishmongers, delis, hotels, restaurants, and retailers.

John Ross Jr chief executive Christopher Leigh says cost is the firm’s primary challenge.

“It’s a real point of difference,” Mr. Leigh said. “We’re one of the last remaining producers who still use these brick kilns, and it’s something we’re incredibly proud of.

“Our salmon doesn’t come out of an industrial machine. It comes out of a historic process that’s been perfected over generations.”

Cost challenges and commitment to quality

The company supplies more than 25 countries worldwide and is a two-time winner of the Queen’s Award for Export.

Mr Leigh said the company’s traditional approach is key to its ongoing success, but rising costs are a persistent struggle.

“Our primary challenge is cost,” he added. “Because we use traditional methods and handcraft every batch, our production is more time-intensive and laborious.

“It takes us seven days to make our smoked salmon, compared to the hours it takes for industrial processes.

“While our pricing is very competitive, rising costs in food production are an ongoing challenge that we continue to manage carefully.”

Smoking the fish. Image: John Ross Jr

Maintaining the purity of their salmon—free from artificial additives, flavourings, or nitrates—is critical to the brand’s identity.

“We avoid shortcuts like injecting brine or using electric smoke generators,” Leigh insists.

“This handcrafted approach is essential to the quality of our product, and we will never stray from it.”

Mr Leigh’s father, Andrew Leigh, founded John Ross Jr in 1987, taking the smokehouse and its historic kilns into a new era.

Although control of the business passed to Estonian company PRFoods in 2017, the previous family owners remain at the heart of the company and stay true to its core values.

‘Slow and steady’ for John Ross Jr

The company’s approach is driven by a small, dedicated team of 70 employees, many of whom have been with the company for decades.

Looking ahead, Ross plans to continue growing, though the company’s expansion will be approached with caution.

“We have the capacity to double our production, but we’re committed to scaling slowly and steadily, ensuring we never compromise on the quality of our product,” Mr Leigh explained.

“It’s important that we maintain our heritage and craftsmanship while looking for ways to improve, particularly in sustainability and packaging.

“We won’t cut corners for the sake of profit, and our slow, steady approach will continue to serve us well as we move forward.”

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