It’s 3am and Jonathan Dunne lays awake, scrolling up and down his social media feed as he tries to force his drowsy eyes asleep.
Suddenly, a sale listing for a derelict Aberdeenshire building catches his attention.
At first glance, the abandoned Fetternear stables seems a bit of a lost cause – with shattered windows and crumbling walls painting a rather dire picture.
But Jonathan immediately fell in love with it.
And before he knew it, he was driving 600 miles from his home in England to the outskirts of Kemnay to see the place for himself.
Jonathan didn’t quite know what he would do with it, but he knew he needs to have it.
He says the rest is history – hands were shook, contracts were signed, and he quickly became the proud owner of the property.
However, there was still that daunting question – what on Earth would he do with it?
Until one day, he had an epiphany… This would be a state-of-the-art distillery.
I met the drinks expert at the open day for his new Kemnay distillery, and heard all about:
- Why he swapped running Michelin Star restaurants and an award-winning cider company for Aberdeenshire
- Why the Fetternear Stables estate is the perfect fit for his distillery vision
- And how he plans to make the venue a success for generations to come
Scenic stables the perfect setting for Kemnay distillery
Nestled in the heart of the picturesque Garioch countryside, each building on the Fetternear Estate is a testament to the golden age of Scottish architecture.
And as I pull up to the stables just behind the Bishop’s Palace, I start to understand why Jonathan fell in love with this place.
Scores of whisky lovers have also made the trip here to find out about the ambitious plans, as we huddle around the building’s new owner for a tour.
His enthusiasm is infections, as he leads us around the courtyard pointing out what he plans to do with each section of the currently desolate structure.
“It’s a bit like Colditz just now, but I promise it will look better,” Jonathan chuckles.
Indeed, the building has seen better days…
Most of the windows are broken, there are weeds sprouting from the cracks of the walls, while there are parts of the roof that are missing all together.
And that’s not to mention the piles of rubbish and abandoned household appliances dumped in some of the rooms in the main building.
It’s safe to say that turning the estate around would be no small feat…
So what makes Jonathan the best person to take this on?
From running a Michelin-star venue to distilling whisky in Kemnay…
Just outside the main entrance, Jonathan tells me how he came to launch this huge whisky project, hundreds of miles away from his London home.
He’s no stranger to the drinks industry, as he begins to list off the countless aspects in which he’s been involved in it over the decades.
Most of his former endeavours weren’t just small-time operations either.
His previous role at The Taunton Cider Company involved producing up to 250,000 bottles every day.
And that’s just the tip of the iceberg.
“I’ve owned award-winning pubs, I’ve owned Michelin Star restaurants, I’ve made cider, brewed beer, and at some point, made my own gin,” he smiles.
“I don’t have much experience in whisky but all my other areas of expertise in marketing, branding, sales, developing and planning I can utilise here.
“And I’ve employed the best whisky distiller I can find.”
However, it was the “beautiful” buildings that really attracted him to Aberdeenshire and sparked the idea for the distillery.
Why did Jonathan take a punt on Kemnay distillery?
As we take in the scenic views, Jonathan reveals it was his desire to save the derelict property from ruin that drew him to the north-east.
Believed to have been designed by one of Aberdeen’s most famous architects, Archibald Simpson, the Fetternear stables were built in the mid 19th century.
It served as homes for the estate’s horses, as well as kennels and accommodation for staff until it was abandoned decades ago.
Despite the dire condition the estate was in, Jonathan was still certain it was worth his time and money.
And when he and his team first set about drawing up plans for his vision, they were amazed at how everything slotted into place.
“It’s like it was just waiting to be turned into a distillery,” he says, looking back to when they got pen and paper out for the first time.
“It doesn’t work as housing anymore; it doesn’t work as an agricultural building because the tractors are too big, so it lent itself to me as a whisky distillery.
“Everything just fit perfectly.
“It’s an incredible building and it deserves to be something really special, so that’s what we’re going to try and build.”
So what exactly are his plans?
On the face of it, Jonathan’s plans sound simple – he wants the distillery to be a “whole experience” with tasting rooms, a coffee shop, and even accommodation for visitors.
It is hoped that ultimately the venue will attract 10,000 people every year.
In practice, turning the building around will be a tad more difficult.
But Jonathan believes that with the help of his right-hand man, Gareth Roberts, as his devoted distiller, they can do it.
The 55-year-old has been an architect for 30 years, specialising in distilleries projects.
Standing outside the shed where the scotch could soon be stored, he says: “It’s a big investment, but it’s a beautiful building and it will be relatively simple to convert it.
“It’s the perfect solution to save a building like this.”
Jonathan adds: “We’ve set our goal in becoming the first single-estate reserve in Scotland.
“What that means is that everything that is made in that building starts and finishes on this estate.”
He gestures to the vast countryside surrounding us, and continues: “All around these fields we will be growing 400-500 acres of barley.
“They will be brought in, dried and malted. The whole process will happen in this area.”
Kemnay distillery will ‘benefit whole area for decades’
As we wind down our chat, Jonathan says he believes the distillery could bring a boost to the Garioch area for years to come.
He estimates that the complex could end up creating between 30-40 jobs.
And he hopes that it could also become a training facility for a new generation of distillers, brewers, coopers and everything in between.
Jonathan adds: “It will create jobs, and it will hopefully bring more people to the area.
“If we get this right, it will outsee multiple generations of people.
“It won’t be just me – it’ll be here forever for many to enjoy.”
Read more:
Conversation