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My Shetland: Ann Cleeves explains why it was ‘love at first sight’ when she landed in Lerwick

The best-selling author has been in love with Shetland since the 1970s and her books reflect the mystery and mystique of the islands.

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Ann Cleeves has been in love with Shetland since the 1970s.

Ann Cleeves is a rare individual in the crime writing world.

It’s not often that most authors have one series turned into an international TV drama phenomenon. But Ann has managed it twice, with Shetland and Vera, her creations which were brought to life on the screen by Douglas Henshall and Brenda Blethyn.

She has never forgotten the mystique of the islands from the time she worked on the bird observatory in Fair Isle and witnessed the arrival of the oil boom at Sumburgh.

And now, Ann has told us about some of the myriad reasons why she is so passionate about returning to the far north of Scotland whenever she can.

Ann Cleeves has relished her myriad visits to Shetland down the years.

What springs to mind when you think of Shetland?

“My friends there first of all, and then the space and the light.  When I arrive into Lerwick on the ferry, it does feel a bit like coming home.

“It’s a place where it’s very easy to relax. I can feel my breathing slow a bit and find that I am smiling.”

Lone Stonybreck village church, on Fair Isle island in Shetland with floral meadow and dramatic sky.

What are your favourite places around Shetland?

“Fair Isle will always be important to me.  It’s where I stayed when I first came into Shetland, though it’s a while since I’ve been back.

“I love seeing its shape from the south of Mainland when the weather’s clear.  Then, there’s a great view driving west towards Whiteness.

“Stop in the layby at the top of the hill and look down towards Nesbister. And, of course, the cliffs at Eshaness are spectacular.”

The Northern Lights have returned to the north and north-east. Picture of Eshaness, Shetland by Kev Forth

Most memorable night out there?

“That would be another Fair Isle memory. We launched Blue Lightning there.

“The islanders put up our guests because the new observatory wasn’t quite ready for us, and the dust from the Icelandic volcano grounded the planes, so we all crowded onto The Good Shepherd – the mail boat – to get there.

“It was an evening of music and friendship and laughter.”

Puffin at Sumburgh Head, Shetland.
Puffin at Sumburgh Head, Shetland.

What is your favourite Shetland restaurant and why?

“I like Fjara in Lerwick for its views, the great warmth of the staff and the atmosphere.

Fjara Cafe Bar. Image: Fjara

“Frankie’s fish shop in Brae is iconic. And, if you’re out that way, call into Busta House for a meal. It’s an old laird’s house and quite beautiful.

“It is a while since I have been and I need to go back.”

Best places around the area when you are looking for inspiration?

“Really, I can pick up an idea for a story from anywhere and there are still places that I’ve not visited.

“I don’t know the islands of Yell or Unst very well.  I’ve visited but never stayed.

“Often, stories come from the people, not the places. I love listening to details of their lives and their preoccupations.”

Douglas Henshall played “Shetland” lead character DI Jimmy Perez from 2013 to 2022.

What is your first memory of Shetland?

“I was very seasick going into Fair Isle on the Good Shepherd – it had been stormy for a few days and it was the first trip out for a while.

“But when I arrived into the isle, I was bowled over. It was spring and there were seabirds on the cliffs and pink thrift.

“All the islanders came to help unload the boat. It was love at first sight.”

Ann Cleeves enjoys visiting Mareel in Lerwick. Image: Kenny Elrick/DC Thomson

Best place to stop for a coffee around Shetland?

“Go into Mareel, the magnificent Arts Centre right on the water in Lerwick.

“If you’re lucky, there might be some live music. The Peerie Shop Cafe is a great favourite too.

Ann Cleeves was made a Doctor of Letters at a special RGU graduation ceremony.

What are you up to with work at the moment?

“My new book, The Killing Stones, featuring Jimmy Perez is out in October, and I have just been dealing with a few queries from proof-readers.

“It’s set in Orkney, not Shetland, but I hope that readers will enjoy it.

“I’m also writing a new Matthew Venn novel.”

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