When Skye is in the midst of a bustling tourist season, there is one part of the island which retains its sense of peace and tranquillity.
The Sleat Peninsula in the southwest remains something of a well-kept secret. When it comes to the Kinloch Lodge hotel, it is a secret worth sharing with those who enjoy gourmet food in sumptuous surrounding imbued with a romantic sense of centuries past.
Breathing new life into a historic building can be a Herculean task. However, when we stepped into the Lodge, we appreciated all the effort that had gone into making this former shooting lodge a luxurious place in which to get away from the pressing concerns of modern life.
We immediately felt embraced by a sense of heritage and tradition. We were made welcome and invited to sit down in the small bar-cum-sitting room which also serves as a reception area. Our luggage was swiftly spirited away to our rooms, and we were each presented with a delicious glass of fizz.
Tradition goes back centuries
My son Ruairidh and his girlfriend Kathryn are students at Scotland’s Gaelic College, Sabhal Mor Ostaig which is just down the road from the hotel. They have passed the driveway to this sumptuous hotel on many occasions, but this was a chance to experience what it has to offer.
They were intrigued with the framed family tree hanging in the hallway which outlined the lineage of the current Macdonalds right back to the original Lord of the Isles, Somerled.
He was an 12th Century nobleman of Norse and Gaelic heritage who ruled the Isle of Man and Argyll and the islands of Scotland. Somereld met with a warrior’s death at the battle of Renfrew in 1164 and the Lords of the Isles lost power over their dominion in the 15th Century but their descendants continue to play a key role in the conservation and economic viability of this part of Skye.
Isabella Macdonald took over the day- to- day running of Kinloch Lodge in 2008. She is the very embodiment of Highland Hospitality and therefore well suited to her role. Isabella remembers growing up in a home adjoined to the hotel and says that by the age of 8, she was able to take guests through the check in process.
At that time there was only one telephone and that was kept in a cupboard under the stairs. The precious bookings book often went astray but was somehow always recovered. Now everything is digitised and fit for business in the 21st Century but at its very core the business is about looking after people and making sure they get to eat wonderful food.
Serene surroundings
We enjoyed the sense of being at home in someone else’s family home and made time to sit by the wood burner in the lounge. We also got out the chess set and contemplated our next moves while drinking in the shifting serenity of the Loch na Dal.
Our rooms were situated in a modern annex which was designed to fit with the main building. It’s white render, slate roof and sash and case windows referenced the Victorian and Georgian eras.
Inside a log fire crackled in an open grate situated at the base of a spiral staircase. This led to a series of sumptuous rooms each decorated differently and each maximising panoramic sea views.
That evening we made our way to the cosy panelled dining room for dinner. Portraits of the Macdonald ancestors adorned the sage green walls, lending a sense of formality to the occasion. The service we received throughout our stay deserves special mention. We found the staff to have exactly the right blend of dignity, warmth, and efficiency.
For many years Isabella’s mother, Lady Claire Macdonald, a P&J columnist for The Menu, ran the kitchen where she considered herself a self-taught cook as opposed to a chef. At the point when her career as a cookery writer and presenter started to take off, she enlisted the help of trained chefs.
Jordan Webb became head chef at Kinloch about 3 years ago. He immediately set about establishing a bounteous kitchen garden and experimenting with wild, foraged ingredients.
Food with a modern twist
He continues the practice of using ingredients which are fresh, local and seasonal. This underpins Lady Claire’s approach. Jordan has gone one step further to create a modern menu with international appeal.
We began our meal with tiny little canopies of chicken in Korean Sauce and smoked salmon and cream cheese gougeres. These duly woke up our tastebuds and sharpened our appetites. We then went on to enjoy starters and main courses built around exquisite ingredients such as scallops and lamb whose provenance was marked on a map on the reverse of the menu.
For dessert there is a Kinloch tradition of serving one option with chocolate and one other. Kathryn loved the dark chocolate cremeux with burnt orange, white chocolate and sea buckthorn sorbet.
Ruairidh and I were equally enchanted by a medley of berry-based treats which included strawberry bavarois and the tangiest sorbet possible. This approach to cooking demands scientific precision as well as artistic flare. The result is stunning looking food containing an incredible depth of flavour.
Before leaving we made a booking to return for Sunday lunch. The days of bypassing the driveway are gone.
Dinner bed and breakfast for two people for two nights from £1,160. For more information go to kinloch-lodge.co.uk or call 01471 833333
