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Kinlochleven and South Lochaber tour guide’s top 5 things about life the area

Andrew lives in Kinlochleven and relishes everything about the area, from its intriguing past to gourmet treats.

South Lochaber fan Andrew Baxter with the 'sore feet' statue in Fort William at the end of the West Highland Way. Image: Andrew Baxter
South Lochaber fan Andrew Baxter with the 'sore feet' statue in Fort William at the end of the West Highland Way. Image: Andrew Baxter

Andrew Baxter knows his local community like the back of his hand.

Community campaigner turned Highland councillor, he owned Kinlochleven Post Office for 17 years, operating a mobile post office to some of the south Lochaber villages.

He’s a qualified STA Green Badge tourist guide for the Highlands and North East Scotland.

Tour guide Andrew Baxter.
Tour guide Andrew Baxter is passionate about South Lochaber. Image: Andrew Baxter.

In his spare time Andrew can be found treading the boards on stage in local musicals and pantomimes.

He says he relishes playing the panto baddie as it is no different from the boos he gets in the council chamber.

So who better to ask about the best things about life in the area?

Here’s his five favourite things about South Lochaber…

1. Surprising industrial heritage

“When visitors think of the Scottish Highlands they think of heathery glens and high mountain peaks,” Andrew said.

“Most would never think about the Highlands having an industrial past but you don’t have to look to far to see the evidence right before your eyes.

“My own village of Kinlochleven would not exist if it wasn’t for heavy industry. The early Edwardian industrialists led by Lord Kelvin saw an opportunity to make aluminium, and money, in a remote highland glen where only a shooting lodge and a few crofts stood.

“Their vision saw the construction of the Blackwater Dam, still an engineering marvel, a smelter and the village.

A Pelton Wheel from the old Blackwater Dam turbine hall.
An original Pelton Wheel from the old Blackwater Dam turbine hall. Image: Andrew Baxter.

“The factory is long gone but we are proud of the what remains of our industrial past. I was pleased to be involved in regenerating wasteland in the centre of the village into a pleasant village square, and its centre stands an original Pelton wheel from the turbine hall.”

2. Hidden history

As a tour guide Andrew likes to get away from the usual tourist hotspots and show people South Lochaber’s best kept secrets.

He said: “Down on the shore by the Isles of Glencoe Hotel you will find the original workmen’s sheds from the slate quarry.

“They are hundreds of years old and a testament to the skill of the workers that dressed the slate that roofed our cities like Glasgow.

“And not far from there is one of my favourite spots, forgotten or missed by so many.

Ballachulish Bridge on a misty day.
Ballachulish Bridge. Image: Ben Hendry/DCT Media.

“The monument to James Stewart, James of the Glen, stands above the Ballachulish Bridge.

“For many he is a Jacobite hero was wrongly found guilty and executed for the infamous Appin Murder.

“The monument marks the spot where he was executed and his body left as a warning to other Jacobite rebels. After years of neglect, the monument was overgrown and the access steps decaying I persuaded Transport Scotland to restore this important historic spot.”

3. From mountains to lochs, the scenery has it all

There’s no doubt that South Lochaber’s scenery is among the finest in the British Isles, and Andrew has his favourite spots.

Andrew said: “A favourite drive is up through the Pass of Glencoe pausing to enjoy the splendour of the Three Sisters and the alpine-like Aonach Eagach Ridge.

“You have to get there early these days as it can be overrun by visitors in the height of summer.

“Then up over bleak Rannoch Moor before heading along Glen Etive.

Misty mountains and burn in Glen Etive.
Beautiful Glen Etive, Lochaber. Image: Sandy McCook/DCT

“This has to be one of the prettiest cul-de-sacs in Britain, twisting and turning through the mountains before road end at Loch Etive.

“A flask of tea and a piece of shortbread sat on a rock by the loch’s edge is the perfect way to finish the drive before heading home.”

4. West Highland Way

Thousands of walkers pass through Kinlochleven every year on the West Highland Way, keeping residents busy—and sometimes amused.

Andrew said: “Some stride, but many hobble down beside the pipeline after several days walking from Milngavie.

“I am always amused at these big burly men who clearly thought it would be a walk in the park.

Andrew Baxter with ‘sore feet’ statue at the end of the Highland Way in Gordon Square, Fort William. Image: Andrew Baxter.

“By the time they get to our village they are wearing knee supports and asking where they can buy blister plasters.

“Kinlochleven wouldn’t be the same without them and you know spring isn’t far away when you see more and more walkers arrive from February onwards.”

5. Tasty treats

Lots of fresh air and exercise brings on hearty appetites, and Andrew has his favourite eateries when he’s out and about with work or the family.

“I like popping into Craft and Things in Glencoe, alongside the A82.

“It’s a popular spot for both visitors and locals and it is always busy.

Lyndsay Michie of Stiff Peaks patisserie in Balluchulish with some of her mouth-watering produce. Image: Sandy McCook/DCT

“Or you could grab a tasty treat from Stiff Peaks in Ballachulish run by the very talented Lyndsay Michie.

“My children love the sausage rolls., and I recommend the haggis versions.

“You won’t be able to leave without buying one of the gorgeous looking tarts or desserts.

“If you still have room after all of that, you should finish the day at the Seafood Café on Loch Leven looking out across the loch as the sunset, a steaming bowl of local mussels and a pint of beer from nearby River Leven Ales.

“Perfect!”


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