Jim Wood literally has stars in his eyes when it comes to to his home village of Braemar.
Teaching navigation and expedition skills in the area over 35 years often saw him outdoors after dark.
Overcome with awe and wonder, he would gaze at the sparkling night skies, sometimes blazing with the Northern Lights, and decided this was an experience he wanted to share with others.
He became qualified as a ‘dark sky ranger’ and founded Mountain Skies Braemar, offering stargazing and night walking tours in and around Braemar in the Cairngorms National Park.
Jim says Braemar is an excellent location to enable people’s increased interest in exploring the cosmos.
“We’ve got really dark skies over Braemar most of the time, and the Cairngorms National Park is known as a dark sky area, so you can actually get to see a huge number of stars that you don’t get to see elsewhere. If you’re lucky you may even see the Northern Lights.”
He also says many international guests live in very built-up areas, so the novelty of being able to see stars clearly provides them with a real “sense of wonder”.
He adds: “Everybody is so busy nowadays that it’s actually a really good opportunity just to stop and reflect, and with Braemar also being so quiet it’s good to be able to let your senses enjoy the darkness and silence.”
Here, he recommends five of his favourite things to do in the historic town of Braemar, which he says as a place to visit offers an opportunity “for a bit of tranquility”.
“Braemar has lots of history with castles and stories of local worthies, and is still a traditional Highland village in many respects.
“Balmoral and Braemar castles are on the doorstep, and Mar Lodge Estate is also nearby, all harping back to a different time.”
Here’s Jim’s five favourite things about Braemar life..
1. Walking and mountain-biking
Jim highlights the many accessible hills and walks within easy reach of the village, such as Morrone, the Birkwoods, Craig Chionnich, and the Queen’s Drive.
“They’re suitable if you’ve got a moderate level of fitness, and they’ll only take you 20 to 30 minutes to reach from the centre of the village.”
“In the case of Craig Choinnich, you can quite quickly get above the village lights, but it also gives you a 360-degree view around the night sky, and it’s a really good spot for aurora activity, because you’re looking straight north towards Ben Avon and Beinn a’Bhuird”, he says.
In terms of daytime walks, he says there are many Munros in the area, 15 on Mar Lodge estate, nine at Glenshee and five in Glen Ey along with Lochnagar and Broad Cairn at Balmoral.
If you’re looking for a long-distance trail there are some classics to choose from with the Lairig Ghru and Larig an Laoigh, and long-distance paths through Glen Feshie and Glen Tilt.
Jim has been involved in the Duke of Edinburgh Award for more than 30 years.
He says: “The Cairngorm National Park and Deeside is a really popular area for youngsters to come and take part in the expedition section of their Awards, and through it get some really good life skills, including self-reliance.”
He also praises the good system of tracks and trails both forested or open hill, which are suitable for mountain biking.
He adds: “There are some great circular routes and trails locally for all levels of ability, with local supplier Braemar Mountain Sports hiring both electric and normal bikes.”
2. Artisanal food and drink producers
Jim’s blown away by all the high-quality food and drink producers in the area.
He’s a fan of the Braemar Chocolate Shop, admitting to a real soft spot for their Cairngorms’ Caramel Bar.
“The Highland Bakehouse at Crathie is another great place to stop and break your journey, making great coffee and producing some great breads and cakes, and for those who like a buttery there are none better.”
He also flags up the recently established Braemar Brewing Co. with its Braemar pale ale.
Chase it with a whisky from Royal Lochnagar distillery, which can trace its roots back nearly 200 years.
Jim says: “It’s situated right beside Balmoral and does some great tours and tastings.”
3. The Braemar Gathering
The annual Braemar Highland Games are close to Jim’s heart as he’s involved in organising them.
Last year King Charles and Queen Camilla were in attendance.
Jim said: “It’s a great day out, and it’s a really big day on the calendar for the village and for the area. Also, it may be a coincidence, but it feels like it’s always sunny when a senior member of the Royal family visits.”
The event also attracts showbiz royalty, for example Dame Judi Dench and Stephen Fry in 2024.
Wood also says: “If you can’t manage to get to the Gathering itself, the games arena is worth a visit on its own and is open all year round and the Highland Games Centre in the grounds has free parking and an exhibition and café.”
4. St Margaret’s, Braemar
This performance, arts, and heritage venue is housed in a former Scottish Episcopal Church designed by Aberdeen-born architect Sir John Ninian Comper.
Its patrons include Grammy-nominated American folk singer-songwriter and author Mary Gauthier, and it hosts events such as concerts across a variety of music styles, for example in 2022 it saw the Royal Scottish National Orchestra perform for King Charles.
Jim says: “St Margaret’s is a great asset for the village. Run by volunteers, it has a full programme of music events, festivals, exhibitions, and workshops throughout the year, bringing some great performers to the village and giving regular access to live music.”
5. Glenshee
Jim’s day job is ski patrol manager at Glenshee Ski Centre, the UK’s largest ski area offering more than 3,500 feet of ‘mountain adventure.
He says: “I’ve always had a passion for skiing and the outdoors, and the opportunity to work in an environment that allows you to take part in something you love is great.
“I’ve skied all over the world, but learned at Glenshee more than 50 years ago, and have strong and lasting memories of this.
“When it comes to Scottish skiing, you have to be an optimist and take your chances when the weather and snow align.
“Glenshee works hard to do this, and the area offers great choice for downhill snow sports, ski tourers and winter hillwalking.
“It also offers the opportunity for summer visitors to ride the chairlift to the summit of the Cairnwell, take in the views, and experience the home baking of the Base café.
“Both the café and chairlift are dog friendly which pleases lots of visitors.”
Conversation