It was a long road back to Shetland, for Hoswick jewellery designer Karlin Anderson, and not just in miles.
From her family farm in Tingwall amidst the hubbub of siblings and cousins, she soldered, polished and hammered her way to a prestigious career on the mainland, working with celebrities and royals alike.
But Hatton Garden, Notting Hill and London’s glitterati are a far cry from the rugged shores of Shetland where she played as a child, and even further from the people that make it ‘hame’.
“So when the time was right, I shipped all my things, jumped on my motorbike and took the long road home. I’ve never looked back,” she said. “There was something about catching that first glimpse of Scotland… I could breathe again.”
‘I had such a happy childhood,’ Karlin says
The second of five kids, Karlin – now 47 – had no ambition to leave the island growing up.
Daughter of Bobby Anderson and his wife Sylvia – one of the Irvine family of Setter Farm, Tingwall – Karlin and her siblings had an idyllic childhood.
“We lived in one of four farm cottages. My grandparents, great-grandparents and aunt and uncle were there too. I guess it was quite an insular way of life but one I’m incredibly grateful for. I was content. So much so I had no idea what I wanted to do when I left school.”
The Scalloway Junior High pupil, like many teens on the island, could follow in family traditions of farming, fishing and other businesses, or perhaps venture away for a time to be trained in a different profession, before returning home.
“I knew of people who went to the mainland to become nurses, but they came right back. I just needed to figure out what I wanted.”
‘Just like my granny, making things was my destiny’
Inspiration came in the form of Songs of Praise, and her aunty Angela.
“I have a lovely memory of my aunt, who worked Hjaltasteyn, polishing precious stones for a bespoke item of jewellery made to symbolise everyone coming together from all over Shetland for Songs of Praise.
“It intrigued me. When it was time to organise work experience I asked if I could work at the same shop.”
After a week at Hjaltasteyn she told her mum she’d found the job.
On leaving school, she asked owner Rosalyn Thompson if they’d take her on.
“She said they couldn’t keep me on for the winter but I could work there for the summer. So I did. And I loved it. I learned to solder and cut and just loved how practical it all was. There I was with my toolbox… I just thrived making things.
“I think I was destined for a life in “making”. My other granny made clothes and farming life is a life full of resourcefulness.”
College on the mainland meant time away from Shetland
Next came a two-year stint with Shetland Jewellery Silvercraft and the realisation that to progress in her career she’d need to leave the Isles for the mainland.
In 1996 she did just that. North Glasgow College offered a course in jewellery design, manufacture and business management.
“It quite appealed to me because I saw a lot of people making and designing things, but to be successful, you also had to know what would sell.
“It really opened my eyes.”
Glasgow also afforded Karlin the opportunity to work with some of the nation’s finest craftsmen.
For six years, she worked at Hodgkinson’s in the South Side under the tutelage of world-renowned gemologist Alan Hodgkinson, and jeweller Bert McCrumb.
“A lovely man, Bert was nearing the end of his career just as I was getting started. He imparted so much to me,” said Karlin, I was entrusted with so much.”
Next stop, Hatton Garden
Karlin began hankering for a new challenge just as Bert retired.
“It felt the right time to move on,” she said.
Marking a brief moment of punctuation in an otherwise non-stop career, she went travelling with a friend for six months before heading to the diamond capital of London, Hatton Garden.
“For all I knew about the place it was like landing on a brand new planet. I kept thinking, ‘but how do I find the people in the workshops?’ ‘How do I get into it here?'”
To say it was a culture shock doesn’t do it justice.
“I grew up surrounded by siblings and cousins on a farm. And there I was knocking on a fortified door waiting for someone behind a hatch to let me in. Then, when I got in, I had to assimilate into another new culture.”
With around 70% of Hatton Garden thought to be owned by Jewish diamond dealers – many observing strict orthodox practices – Karlin had to quickly adjust.
“I just remember holding my arm out – to shake hands – only to realise an Orthodox man wouldn’t touch any woman other than his wife.
“I had a lot to learn.
“It was also a predominantly male environment, but the tomboy in me wasn’t daunted by it.”
For the next 15 years Karlin would thrive in England’s capital.
Royal commissions for ‘farm girl’ Karlin
Working for Wint and Kidd in Notting Hill, she designed jewellery for supermodels Kate Moss and Claudia Schiffer and worked on six-figure commissions.
“I’d catch myself sometimes, thinking who am I to be here, I came from a farm… then I’d say no, you can do this Karlin.”
One client, “so brash”, demanded the biggest and most expensive looking stone Karlin could find, in order “they’d know she was rich” on her next Harrods shopping spree.
In 2008 she registered her own business: Karlin Anderson Jewellery Design. As well as making items for her clients, she worked under commission for several jewellery houses handcrafting pieces for clients including members of the British Royal Family.
“I was at a stage in my life where I wanted to make my life count, you know? To have a positive impact.”
So she started looking into her supply chain and made changes to how her materials were sourced. Karlin also began looking for opportunities to help others.
“I had my eyes opened to the plight of people trapped in human trafficking. Known as modern day slavery, I wanted to use my skills to try and help.”
She developed the Freedom Collection – a range of silver jewellery which has now raised more than £8,000 for charitable organisation International Justice Mission – and Karlin made rings for women in Ukraine who had been rescued from their traffickers.
“I felt I had a bit of an affinity with these women as I had also been married – in a very difficult situation. I know what it is to feel trapped and undervalued.”
‘Coming home was a no-brainer,’ says Karlin
In fact, it was in the early days of rebuilding her life after divorce when the thought first occurred to move back home.
“I had just turned 40. I was thinking about family, and I had a stronger and stronger desire to work in a way, and in a place, where me being there would benefit the community.
“It felt like a no-brainer.”
She started researching what it might look like to bring her business to Shetland, and in August 2019, with “all her things” already en-route, she hopped on her silver Triumph Street Twin and drove the long road home.
Initially staying with her parents, she opted to open her studio in Hoswick where other traders and artisans had forged a fledgling business community.
“It’s been an amazing move.
“I’m working in a way that makes me proud, with people who have the same heart as I do.
“I only use recycled metals, and as far as I can be certain, my partners and suppliers are ethical.
“I love that I’m part of making Hoswick a destination, and I get to see my family every day. What’s not to love?”
Unexpected happiness came with the move home
Island life certainly seems to have been good to Karlin. She recently created the Wolf Collection, adorned by the bold and beautiful South Mainland Up Helly Aa jarl squad.
And her eyes twinkle when she tells me about her Shetland renaissance.
“That was amazing. To see the girls wear my jewellery at the fire festival was really special. It wasn’t something we got involved with as children so I’m kind of rediscovering the magic of what makes Shetland special, for myself.”
And just this week music megastar KT Tunstall was snapped wearing Karlin’s wings necklace on BBC’s The One Show.
Of course, her transition back to island life was perhaps helped along by reconnecting with her childhood sweetheart –Â “a very good, kind man,” called Bryan Peterson.
Not out to find love, meeting and marrying Brian three years ago, was a welcome surprise.
“He’s an amazing man. I feel very content to be surrounded by so much love and support.
“Shetland has been very good to me,” she smiles. “It’s lovely to be home.”
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