Remember the popular TV show, Two Fat Ladies?
After a day spent enjoying a drive through parts of scenic Donside and Deeside, my sister-in-law and I were beginning to look more and more like the show’s presenters, Jennifer Paterson and Clarissa Dickson Wright!
These adorable if rather rotund presenters loved their grub – and so do we – which is why we’d made several pit-stops en-route to our final destination, the Tornacoille Hotel in Banchory. Well, the best way to get a feel for any village or town is by stopping there for a coffee, snack or lunch, isn’t it?
Having slightly overdone the snack-stops earlier in the day, we were determined to make space for dinner, so took an appetite-whetting walk through the hotel’s splendid grounds before heading into the village to see the picturesque Bridge of Feugh where we’d hoped to see a salmon or two leaping up the waterfalls.
We were out of luck this time, but still enjoyed seeing the crystal clear water tumbling over the rocks on either side of the bridge.
By the time we got back to the hotel, I was certainly ready to dine, especially as I’d heard good things about what chef/owner, David Littlewood, formerly of Milton and Raemoir House Hotel, had been doing since he took over the popular hotel earlier this year.
He’s an award-winning chef and among the clutch of titles he possesses is the prestigious Scottish Chef of the Year. Great things were expected, and I have to say delivered – with panache and a smile.
We relaxed with a pre-dinner drink in the lounge bar which has a modern Scottish vibe to it, before being taken through, by a very nice local waiter, to the Royal Deeside restaurant.
Sitting next to windows with fine garden views, it wasn’t so much the blooms that caught our eye but the price of dinner: £35 for three courses or £28 for two, which makes this an affordable, casual fine dining experience.
Our selection of wine, a Mandaross Pinot Grigot at £23.50, was also well-priced, I think.
While I was raring to go, my sister-in-law was still feeling a tad full so decided to skip the main course and stick with a starter and dessert. She was soon oohing and aahing over her chicken liver parfait served with a sweet yet tangy apple chutney and thick, sweet toasted brioche. Full of flavour and with a wonderfully smooth texture, it was a rich, buttery treat.
My game terrine, with spiced chutney, black pudding and apple looked almost too pretty to eat, but while it looked dainty, it packed a mighty punch in terms of fabulous gamey flavours while the black pudding and apple combo added another layer of texture and flavour.
Next came a complementary course, artichoke soup with truffle oil served in a cup. Again, this exceeded my expectations and made for a delicious wee extra.
Main course options included a roasted striploin, chicken breast, fillet of plaice and a vegetarian option but I plumped for the lamb fillet, which came with a superb lamb and potato croquette (I need to learn how to make these at home); dainty crispy shallot rings, a spoonful of rich ratatouille and lovely thyme-infused gravy.
The fillet was perfectly cooked, nicely pink on the inside and with a very fresh flavour, while the whole dish was beautifully seasoned. By now, the in-law had caught up with me and was ready for her pud. She chose a rather special dessert which included a chocolate-nut brownie, salted caramel, crystallised peanuts, honey ice cream and preserved cherries.
Again, it was a showstopper. Silky chocolate oozed from the brownie, while the caramel had the perfect balance of sweet and saltiness. The honey ice-cream was innovative, the peanuts added crunch while the cherries added a touch of luxury.
I can’t see past a good cheeseboard and this one didn’t disappoint with Strathdon Blue, a nice brie and a strong cheddar, plus lots of small oatcakes to accompany them.
Finishing with coffee and home-made tablet, we both came to the same conclusion. This restaurant offers a fabulous yet affordable fine dining experience without any faff, which will make it a must-visit destination for foodies.
My advice? Book a table now before word gets out about what David and his team are doing here.