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Review: Pushing the boat out in style at Findhorn

The Seafood Cafe owner Ian Mcghie with some of his dishes. Pictures by JASON HEDGES
The Seafood Cafe owner Ian Mcghie with some of his dishes. Pictures by JASON HEDGES

There’s one sound I hear that takes me back to my childhood in an instant – the distinctive “clanging” sound of rigging hitting masts.

I spent many a summer in Findhorn as a teenager, and that sound, made by dozens of yachts moored in the beautiful bay, conjures up images of lazy days spent swimming, sunbathing and messing about on the clear water.

The Findhorn Regatta, organised by the Royal Findhorn Yacht Club (RFYC), was always a summer highlight and something to look forward to.

Being back in Findhorn for the first time in several years brought these memories flooding back, especially as I could hear the clanging sound from masts almost as soon as I stepped out of the car.

And for the first time in probably more than 40 years, my destination was once more the RFYC, where chef patron Ian Mcghie runs The Seafood Cafe within the building.

The cafe, previously known as the Piers Cafe, closed, and at the time the P&J reported it, this was being described as a “disaster” for the village, which is hugely popular with tourists.

But every cloud has a silver lining and the closure of the Piers allowed Ian, a well-known local chef with a passion for fresh seafood, to fulfil his dream of running his own cafe/restaurant, while also providing food for yacht club clients and catering for events taking place there.

Entrance to the cafe, which opened last May, is either via the Yacht Club or from a seafront entrance directly overlooking the picturesque bay. Take the seafront entrance, it’s prettier.

We swung by for lunch and were surprised to find initially we were the only diners. I’m reliably informed that as the weather warms up advance booking is recommended.

Having been warmly welcomed we were shown to a table beside the window and presented with a choice of menus.

We opted for the winter market menu which is available from 11am-8pm and priced at one course for £9, two for £12 and three for £15 which seemed excellent value for money.

Meanwhile chef Ian, who was previously head chef at the Cawdor Tavern and Golf View Hotel in Nairn, popped his head round the door to say hello and tell us he’d just taken delivery of superb, really large oysters from the wild waters of Cape Wrath. Did we fancy trying them?

You bet.

We ordered two, and apart from being fantastically plump and fresh, we were impressed by the way they were beautifully presented on a large bowl of crushed ice dotted with fresh, green samphire and fresh lemons.

This lunch was turning into something rather special…

For my starter I had prawn cocktail, served on a bed of watercress and samphire, alongside three small, round oatcakes and a light garlic sauce. Again the pink prawns were deliciously juicy with a really fresh flavour.

My partner opted for the Cullen Skink soup served with chunky bread and butter. While it was warming, filling and had a nice smokey flavour, it was perhaps a little light on chunks of fish.

From a nice choice of meat or seafood dishes for mains, I opted for fritto misto – a sort of twist on the traditional fish and chips as instead of one big piece of fish, it included several small pieces of hake, haddock, salmon and prawns, all covered in a very light, tempura-style batter.

Seared scallops, Stornoway black pudding, chorizo jam, and salsa verde

These came with a tangy pesto mayo and some of the best homemade chunky chips I’ve had the pleasure to demolish in a long while.

There were lots of approving sounds coming from across the table as my other half tucked into his Thai-style green coconut seafood curry with aromatic rice. This was something special; packed with clams, mussels – still in their shells – salmon, prawns and white fish, topped with a large, fresh scallop.

There was enough heat to remind you it was a curry without overpowering the assorted flavours of the seafood, while the coconut milk added another layer of sweetness. Superb was the verdict.

Seafood Platter

We hadn’t intended to have three courses but as our plans for the afternoon included a walk along the beach, we felt justified in pushing the boat out.

A tasty apple tart tartin with vanilla ice-cream and honey-roasted berries for himself and a tangy, sharp winter berry crumble with creamy homemade custard for me, along with a couple of coffees, provided a perfect end to what had been a lovely lunch.

The cafe has no drinks licence, which didn’t affect us as we were happy with soda water and lime, but it’s worth noting that guests can bring their own alcohol. Handy to know should we return for dinner which, undoubtedly, will happen sooner rather than later.

The Seafood Cafe

The Royal Findhorn Yacht Club,

Findhorn

Tel: 01309 690247

2 fresh oysters £6

2 x 3 course meals at £15 each £30

2 soda waters £3

2 coffees £5

£44

 

Ratings:

Food 5/5

Service 5/5

Atmosphere 3/5