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Super soup and a lesson in science

The Lairhillock inn
The Lairhillock inn

It was that Eureka moment when I finally found something which toppled Cullen Skink off my all-time favourite soup pedestal. I had fallen in love with Lairhillock’s hot smoked-salmon soup with fennel: it was sublime and I could not get enough of it.

I would have taken it as my main course, as well, if I had been given a chance. It was the glorious colour, texture and intense flavour that did it for me. It reminded me of lobster bisque, in fact, but, boy oh boy, what a way to start Sunday lunch.

Eureka, indeed. In fact, while we are on the subject of Archimedes’ “Eureka” moment, I could see his world-changing principle of buoyancy – which he supposedly discovered in a bath – happening right before my eyes, with the salmon soup.

The wonderful thick texture meant I could easily balance my spoon on its surface without it sinking and I tried this several times in the interest of furthering scientific knowledge. Or, as Archimedes might have put it, if the object is less dense than the liquid upon which it is floating, or shaped like a boat, the upward force of the liquid keeps the object afloat. There you go, science in action.

Your eyes might have glazed over at this point, but you should also know about one of my own scientific principles: something this good should not stay in the bowl for a moment longer than necessary, so I polished it off in no time.

I had a great feeling about the Lairhillock Inn and Crynoch Function Suite at Netherley, near Stonehaven, as soon as we walked in.

We had been before a few years ago, but I had forgotten how relaxing and welcoming it was – with a great choice of food on the menu and specials board which, on the Sunday lunchtime we visited, was strong on fish dishes.

We were relaxing in a traditional country-pub lounge, just off a modern conservatory, which are both available for diners. The lounge offers leather chairs, attractive brickwork features and an open fire.

The staff were very friendly and attentive: before we started, we asked for a pot of tea to warm ourselves up and it was with us in no time.

It pays to book, as we did, because the lounge and conservatory began to fill up very fast, with a mixture of couples and family groups, which speaks volumes for its reputation.

You have heard all about my fabulous salmon soup, but my wife was also delighted with her starter of seared scallops on walnut risotto with red chilli and garlic butter. The scallops were big and juicy with the risotto offering a great contrast.

For mains, my wife chose seared lamb fillet from the main menu, stuffed with apricot and rosemary, served on a bed of roast Mediterranean vegetables, with a stack of chunky sweet potato chips and a thyme and port jus.

As you can see, this was packed with great combinations, generous portions of tender, delicious lamb and the apricot added a hint of sweetness without being overpowering.

For me, it was the specials board and seared rock turbot fillet, bashed potatoes, with charred asparagus and herb butter.

This was another spectacular dish, with beautifully white and fleshy fish and generous portions. It was a real treat as I had not seen turbot on any menus for a while.

The Lairhillock kitchen had set a cracking standard and there was no letting up with their puddings: an excellent Tiramisu brule (another first for me) served with candied strawberries and lady fingers, and sticky toffee pudding, served with ice cream.

The sticky toffee came with oodles of sauce, which was another nice touch.

I have to say it had been a virtually perfect lunch in every respect – full marks to everyone at Lairhillock. This family-owned business basks in the prestige of being voted one of the 25 best country pubs for food in the UK – and it is clear they want to keep it that way.

I cannot wait to return, but I’ll make sure the hot smoked-salmon soup is on first.