Restaurant review: Inverness’ Ness Walk reinstates popular supper club with packed dining room

By Julia Bryce

November 12 2022, 6:00 am

The amuse bouche of smoked tomato and paprika veloute. Image: Kingsmills Hotel.

A trip to the Highlands is always packed with good food stops if I have anything to do with it.

Recently, my colleague Karla and I were in the area for the Highlands and Islands Food and Drink Awards where 15 winners were announced at Kingsmills Hotel on Culcabock Road.

The evening beforehand though we were lucky enough to get a table at the venue’s sister hotel, Ness Walk’s popular supper club.

Launched in November just before the coronavirus pandemic, this particular event just a few weeks ago was the first once since the outbreak of Covid-19.

Ness Walk in Inverness. Image: Ness Walk

Ness Walk supper club

Taking place in the five-star hotel’s dining room, Torrish, we rocked up on the Thursday night to quite the entrance. After making out way up the drive through the electric gated fence, we were then welcomed by two members of staff ahead of even stepping into the reception area. This was a very lovely way to start the evening and immediately impressed us, making us feel very at home.

I left my jacket with one of the team and we were then ushered into the dining room which was abundant with people. It seemed like everyone had come out especially for the return of the supper club.

Some of the diners on the night. Image: Ness Walk.

Ness Walk, which lies idyllically by the River Ness, had pulled out all the stops and even had Tomatin Distillery on hand to showcase some new expressions as an addition to the experience.

Four courses, two glasses of wine, an arrival glass of fizz and three whiskies almost sounded too good for £50 per person.

As we were seated two glasses of fizz appeared on our table. I believe every good night starts with a glass of fizz, so we toasted one another and joined the 40-odd other diners who were doing the same.

The food

The night commenced with one of the team taking to the centre of the room, grabbing everyone’s attention. He walked us through the evening and the welcome drink, painting a picture of what was to come.

Bread rolls were then served and the soft butter, which had a sprinkling of sea salt on top, spread effortlessly on the wholemeal roll.

One of the team kicks off the night with an introduction to the supper club. Image: Ness Walk.

Our amuse bouche – a smoked tomato and paprika veloute – was served with the bubbles. Garnished with micro herbs, the crispy garlic-filled bon bon in the middle of the light veloute oozed as I stuck my fork and knife in.

It was delicious and a great way to start as we began to make our way through the menu.

The amuse bouche was a smoked tomato and paprika veloute. Image: Ness Walk.

The first wine, a white Quinta de Chocapalha Arinto 2019 from Portugal, was then introduced before the pan seared Orkney scallop was served.

The wine was light on the palate and very fruit-forward which meant it complemented the squid ink risotto, organic sundried tomato, and the chorizo and chilli foam. It really was a delight and the scallop was massive which we both appreciated.

Scallop starter presented in stunning crockery. Image: Ness Walk.

Moving on, we then welcomed the second wine, a red Quinta de Chocapalha Tinto 2017, which, too, hailed from Portugal, to our table with flavours of orchard fruits most prominent.

It went splendidly with the roast Gressingham duck breast that was served with port-soaked cherries, smoked beetroot puree, braised chicory, port glaze and orange confit. The duck was cooked medium rare, which was just how I like it. However, I wasn’t as convinced with chicory as its earthy flavour and the way it was cooked didn’t appeal to me quite as much. It isn’t something I usually have, so I focused on the duck and more-ish cherries instead.

The duck main was cooked to perfection. Image: Ness Walk.

Scott Adamson, the brand ambassador for Tomatin Distillery then talked us through the new limited edition series that showcases the influence of Portuguese wines on the brand’s award-winning single malt.

Three expressions were presented. The first was the port edition matured in a tawny cask It boated notes of spiced plum, cherries and dark chocolate. The second was a moscatel edition which had flavours of marmalade, orange blossom and there was a Terry’s Chocolate Orange tinge to it, too. The third, a Madeira edition which had been matured in Madeira wine casks, was very sweet and smelled almost like white chocolate pralines. All were 46% ABV.

The Tomatin Distillery Portuguese expressions. Image: Ness Walk.

The dessert, a vanilla and jasmine custard tart paired well with them all, although the Madeira was my favourite of the night.

Served with a roasted almond crumb, muscatel gel and an orange blossom sorbet, this dessert was Karla’s favourite course of the night. She’s not one to usually order something sweet but said the sweetness was cut by the torte sorbet which balanced everything out.

Vanilla and jasmine custard tart. Image: Ness Walk.

A dark chocolate and port truffle and an orange and whisky pate de fruits were served right at the end, and I took great pleasure in enjoying them slowly with my trio of drams.

The verdict

It is great to see the supper club return and I couldn’t believe how brilliantly the meal was priced at. At £50 I feel this is a steal, especially given the intimate and friendly service, plus all of the booze involved.

I’d happily have paid more for the experience and I think the quality of the food itself just goes to show the expertise of executive chef, Craig Douglas, and his team harness in the kitchen.

The setting in Torrish. Image: Ness Walk.

I’m already eyeing up the events calendar for the next supper club – which I am told should be announced soon – and I hope to see this event return to the calendar of many as a monthly must-attend.

A special mention goes to the crockery and presentation of each dish as each was plated beautifully on gorgeous plates.