Restaurant review: Get a load of How Bao Now at Ninety-Nine Bar and Kitchen in Aberdeen

By Julia Bryce

November 24 2022, 5:00 pm

Have you tried out the bao buns at How Bao Now in Aberdeen? Image: McLachlan Photography

There’s something about a good quality cocktail pairing with a tasty bite to eat in a relaxed, yet quirky bar that just hits differently.

Don’t get me wrong, I love a good traditional pub lunch, but when you can enjoy a little bit of this and that, plus get yourself a banging drink, to me, the job is done.

While it may have been a few weeks ago, that’s exactly what I enjoyed when out in town for Aberdeen Cocktail Week.

Outside Ninety-Nine Bar and Kitchen. Image: McLachlan Photography

I was keen to try a couple of the drinks at varying bars, and while I was driving, I wasn’t worried as each bar had its own signature non-alcoholic cocktail on the speciality menus, which I personally thought was brilliant.

I’d visited Orchid for a few earlier in the week and wanted to check out what their sister venue, Ninety-Nine Bar and Kitchen, was serving up.

Hao Bow Now at Ninety-Nine Bar and Kitchen

My pal Cameron Woodger, who is one of the team at the bar, was working. Cameron always gives the best drink recommendations so if you’re ever in a pickle, ask him. He’s usually the one with a Tiki/Hawaiian shirt on behind the bar.

I digress. Cameron greeted my sister and I with open arms on the Saturday afternoon we visited and seated us in the corner downstairs. I love the interior in Ninety-Nine as it really does feel like a home away from home. It’s cosy, it’s comfy and it’s intimate which means you can actually hear what the person sitting opposite you is saying.

The bar area of Ninety-Nine Bar and Kitchen in Aberdeen. Image: McLachlan Photography

Everyone who comes to Ninety-Nine will always get a bottle of tap water on their table as soon as they sit down. Hydration is key whether you are boozing or not.

Cameron also grabbed us a few menus after I indicated across the room that I was feeling rather peckish.

While he doesn’t eat meat, he was able to make a few suggestions of must-try dishes from How Bao Now’s menu – the brand who run the bar’s kitchen residency.

The food

I was feeling pretty ravenous and after ordering my £5.50 fruity mocktail – a take on a Mai Tai called the Beach Club Tai – I knew I’d be up for quite the feast.

My sister had never tried How Bao Now, so I was intrigued to hear her thoughts.

We decided sharing was the best option to really get a feel for the menu. Two bao buns each, a portion of loaded fries, gyoza and Koren fried chicken. Surely that would be enough?

My sister had also ordered the Aberdeen Cocktail Week special and so we said a wee “cheers” and got stuck into catching up. We were so engaged in our conversation that we’d barely noticed one of the team standing with a whole trays worth of dishes.

“Just place them anywhere you can,” I said, trying to frantically make space for seven different plates on the smaller table.

We figured out whose bao bun (£4.50 per bun) was whose and strategically placed the sharing dishes in the centre.

There are five different bao bun fillings to choose from. Image: McLachlan Photography

I salivate as soon as I smell barbecue sauce, so once I’d had a whiff, I knew I had to get my hands on my Korean barbecue brisket bao with the barbecue finish.

There’s actually five different bao bun fillings and four different finishes – which are basically toppings – to choose from.

The teriyaki tofu with the fresh finish which has radish, pickled cucumber, confit garlic mayonnaise and sesame. Image: McLachlan Photography

The other one I’d ordered was the char sui pork with the hot finish, while my sister had opted for the teriyaki tofu with fresh finish, and the sweet potato katsu with the crunchy finish.

The buns themselves were exceptionally light and fluffy, and unlike a few other times I’ve been in, were packed with fillings. They also looked great with their toppings.

The Korean barbecue brisket with the crunchy finish which has peanuts and gochujang mayonnaise. Image: McLachlan Photography

The barbecue one was my favourite, just because the meat was so juicy and I loved the pickled carrots, gochujang mayonnaise, spring onion and crushed peanuts topping. I always find this pairing is a match made in heaven and works well together.

My char sui pork with the hot kimchi, sriracha mayonnaise and sesame was also rather tasty. The meat again was cooked well and the bun was packed to the brim with tender shredded pork.

The char sui pork with hot finish. Image: McLachlan Photography

As for Nicole, her favourite was the fried sweet potato katsu that came topped with pickled cabbage and crispy onions. All of the different textures made for an excellent mouthful, although if you had more than one of these you’d definitely be feeling full as it was a big eat.

Her other bun featured a slither of teriyaki tofu and was topped with three slices of radish, picked cucumber, confit garlic mayonnaise with some sesame seeds sprinkled over the toppings. She again enjoyed this one, but said the flavour wasn’t as deep as the katsu.

I’d not tried the fried chicken (£8.95) before and decided on the honey chilli and sesame glazed flavour. Boy did we pick good or what.

The chicken was perfectly fried – it was crisp on the outside, but oh-so succulent inside. The meat tore apart and the small crunchy pieces at the ends were packed with flavour as they’d soaked up plenty of the sweet yet slightly spicy sauce.

Honey chili and sesame glazed chicken. Image: McLachlan Photography

Instead of veggie gyoza we decided on the roasted duck (£6.95) version and it too didn’t disappoint.

The gyoza were fried and there was plenty filling inside them. There were five big ones topped with crispy onions, some spring onion and sat in a chilli, garlic and shallot oil which was right up my street. I was worried they’d be soggy, but because they were so crisp on the outside, it stopped the oils being absorbed too much.

The duck gyoza. Image: McLachlan Photography

We had hoped to order the bang bang chicken loaded fries (£11.25) but they didn’t have any left. We hummed and hayed over brisket or katsu, but figured they’d be quite similar to the buns we’d ordered, so opted for the Korean fried glaze (£8.95).

I’m also obsessed with gochujang sauce and when my sister said she hadn’t tried it, I ordered a pot of gochujang mayo (75p), just so I could see her face when she dipped a chip in.

The loaded fries with chicken. Image: McLachlan Photography.

Topped with a garlic and herb mayo, spring onion and loads of fresh chillies, there was plenty of chicken and skinny fries to go around.

The portion was so substantial that we couldn’t finish it or the fried chicken, so I ended up asking to take it away only for my boyfriend to made short work of it when I got home.

The verdict

I’ve tried How Bao Now a few times in the past and this was quite honestly my favourite visit so far, coming in at £46.85

I don’t know if it is anything to do with the new chef in play, or maybe they have just upped their game, but I’ve noticed a huge difference since the last time.

The bar area of Ninety-Nine. Image: McLachlan Photography

Not just with presentation but with the flavours, too. They just seem to pack a bit more of a punch and be more front and centre, which I am really enjoying.

You’d be silly not to wash the food down with the great drinks you get at Ninety-Nine. And if you don’t see anything on the menu that you fancy, the team behind the bar love the opportunity to get creative.