There was little fanfare when Union Terrace Gardens finally opened to the public in December.
Aberdeen City Council, who had promised a pre-Christmas unveiling, eventually did the deed on the quiet.
One minute the gardens were ring-fenced by barriers, the next – off you go!
The lack of ceremony may have had something to do with the 15 years or so it took to complete the task of turning the Victorian sunken garden into a modern, city-centre public space.
Following years of schedule delays and rising costs – £30 million is the final figure – the council may simply have been too exhausted for a party.
But I won’t bore you with further details. Much ink has already been spilled on UTG; much of it by the man accompanying me on this restaurant review.
That person is Alastair Gossip, who as a city journalist for the Press & Journal has written extensively on the UTG revamp. He probably knows more about the project than some members of the city council.
The Common Sense ethos
He is, therefore, the perfect person to share an Aberdeen Restaurant Week meal in the cafe that – so far – is the sole resident of the gardens’ three commercial ‘pavilions’.
You might have seen these pavilions – they are the golden ovals that look a little bit like an old-style tram.
That is no accident. The pavilions were designed to look like the street cars that used to rumble down nearby Union Street, says Alastair, who is working hard on his night’s brief of providing colourful UTG details in exchange for a meal.
He also tells me the meaning behind the name of the restaurant we are reviewing.
It comes from Banchory-born Thomas Reid’s philosophy of Common Sense, which back in the 18th century went up against David Hume’s more secular arguments on the essence of human experience.
Back then, debates over these competing philosophies raged in coffee houses and pubs of the time, an environment Common Sense looks like it would love to recreate.
The cafe has a few nooks and crannies that are perfect for students, who could either study or argue a point of order over a skinny latte.
There’s also a large bookshelf with donated books that can be read in the cafe or taken away.
In fact, the venue has the air of a modern bookshop. It is no coincidence that Common Sense is owned by the same person that runs Belmont Street’s Books and Beans, another coffee shop with a literary bent.
The food
The Aberdeen Restaurant Week menu at Common Sense is a bit different to those of other places taking part in the event.
For £20 per person, guests get a bottle of wine to enjoy with their Japanese-style bento box, a compartmentalised tray of food that is not too dissimilar to what you might get served on a business class flight.
If that sounds disparaging, it’s not supposed to be. I love an airline meal – there’s something about those trays that scream adventure.
And at Common Sense, the food is excellent. I go for the meat option, which contains a satay-style chicken stick but seasoned with the Nigerian pepper spice suya, as well as a charcuterie selection and chutney dip.
Alastair’s veg box has sage and onion stuffing along with a falafel and chutney. These are the main events, but the beauty of a bento box is in the overall selection.
Both boxes contain cheeses from Ballater’s Cambus O’May and crisp-fresh sliced apple and raspberries. There is also a homemade chocolate cookie and millionaire shortbread, all sitting on a bed of popcorn.
It’s wonderful, though we can’t take advantage of the mobile capabilities of the bento box. It’s pitch black and cold outside, but the idea for the warmer months is that guests can munch on a takeaway bento box out in the gardens.
It is an idea that sits well with Alastair. After years of writing about the delays to UTG, he’s pleased to see people finally putting it to use.
It is, after all, high time for some common sense.
The verdict
I was sceptical when I found out Common Sense was serving a bento box with a bottle of wine for £20. I worried I was set for a glorified packed lunch.
But the food exceeded all my expectations. The meat box especially was carefully curated and the chicken suya was a real standout.
The wine list at Common Sense is also varied enough to keep everyone interested, and the inclusion of a full bottle makes the menu worth it.
Overall, a fantastic night out. I can’t wait to try the summer version, when UTG is back in full swing.
Information
A: Common Sense Coffee House & Bar, Union Terrace Gardens, Aberdeen AB10 1DF
T: 01224 035058
Price: £40 for two people
Aberdeen Restaurant Week promotion: A bento box (veg or meat) each plus a bottle of wine.
