Review: Vovem Meat & Liquor offer relaxed fine dining in Aberdeen

When I was 21 I celebrated in a grotty bar where booze was the priority. My sister on the other hand likes the finer things in life.

Having become quite the foodie over the years, she’s got an acquired taste when it comes to special occasions – going somewhere fancy where she can get a great meal.

Thankfully for her, she has a big sister who loves to dine out, and who loves good food, too.

She’s not the easiest to please, so I knew it had to be somewhere nice. Somewhere she hadn’t been before, and somewhere she’s unlikely to go with her friends.

Walking from the bar area into the restaurant. Image: Wullie Marr/DC Thomson

After sampling Vovem Meat and Liquor’s new tasting menu concept at the tail end of last year, I knew it would be perfect.

I’d loved sitting at the Chef’s Table in the venue while doing the tasting so messaged my friend Victoria who works there to find out how to book said table. Thankfully there’s no minimum spend and I was in luck as it was free the Saturday night I was looking to book.

The whole thing was a surprise and she squealed with excitement as our chauffeur (my other sister’s boyfriend) pulled up outside the restaurant on Union Street.

Inside the stylish restaurant area. Image: Wullie Marr/DC Thomson

Vovem Meat and Liquor

She felt like a superstar being led through the stylish packed restaurant to the top table – the Chef’s Table. The large white table is lined with five comfy bar stools and looks out over the semi-open kitchen where a Josper grill is front and centre.

Meat is at the centre of Vovem’s offering, after all, it’s in its name. You’ll find a fridge full of aged beef at the back of the restaurant and there’s even a Bodega – a storehouse for wine.

At the Chef’s Table you can watch the team cook away on the Josper grill. Image: Wullie Marr/DC Thomson

As we made our way through the menu it was evident steak was a staple here. With varying cuts from different butchers and sides available, it’s clear the Josper grill is at the heart of Vovem.

Our server for the night, Sam, was very attentive all evening, always ensuring we had enough water – and red wine which Victoria had left as a gift – to keep us going.

The food

I’m well aware of head chef Mark Lamont’s passion for the best quality produce, so knew venison was a must when I saw it as a starter option. My sister opted for the luxurious lobster ravioli (£14) and then couldn’t see past the monkish tail. I, on the other hand, stuck to meat and ordered the fillet with bone marrow jus.

We gazed into the kitchen, mesmerised by the flames of the grill. The team were busy, but service was controlled, and Mark even had enough time to start us off with a scallop with lobster bisque amuse bouche, which made Elise feel even more special.

The lobster ravioli with that delicious, creamy sauce. Image: Wullie Marr/DC Thomson

She was delighted with her starter when it arrived. Five large pieces of ravioli housed a delectable lobster filling with parmesan on top, chive oil carefully dripped over it and a balsamic tomato chutney. The rich seafood bisque was phenomenal and had so much flavour, and the pasta was al dente, a little more so than I have had in Italy, but overall delectable.

The tartar (£14.50) was equally as enjoyable. I adored the three pickled blackberries which sat on top of the minced venison that had been mixed with gherkin, onion and tiny capers. And the smoked mayo dollops added a sweetness without taking away from the rich, slight acidity the dish boasted. The paper thin pieces of sourdough toast added a delicate crunch.

Venison tartar was an excellent choice. The pickled blackberries were especially tempting. Image: Wullie Marr/DC Thomson

Mains were perfection too, with my sister complimenting how succulent the monkfish tail (£28) was. Served on top of a roast garlic and butternut squash risotto with two crisp pieces of pancetta and toasted pine nuts sprinkled all over, it was a hearty meal.

Micro rocket and kale added some much needed colour but everything worked splendidly with every texture and flavour hitting all the right notes.

Monkfish tail with risotto, kale and pancetta. Image: Wullie Marr/DC Thomson

My 8oz steak from fourth generation Bannerman Butcher in Aberdeenshire was cooked as I’d asked (medium/rare), and the side of macaroni cheese (£6.50) we’d ordered with pulled brisket (additional £5) looked the part.

The bone marrow jus (£4.50) was incredible. Light, with a heavy meaty undertone, there was plenty of it.

The 8oz fillet steak with bone marrow jus. Image: Wullie Marr/DC Thomson

A favourite of the night though was the macaroni with brisket. The meat pulled apart easily and it had this beautiful saltiness that complemented the indulgent cheese dish’s parmesan and herb crumb.

You’d have thought we’d have been stuffed, but, in my house, there’s no celebration without something sweet, so we ordered the white chocolate panna cotta dessert (£9.50) to share.

If you order one side at Vovem make sure it is the macaroni cheese with pulled brisket. Image: Wullie Marr/DC Thomson

Service had been busy all evening so I fully expected it to be a while until we saw it, but within 15 minutes we watched it be passed from the pass to our table in mere seconds.

The panna cotta itself was delicious, but the gingerbread ice cream was something to write home about. I loved being able to taste the spices and marrying that with the honeycomb, brown butter crumble and the Champagne poached strawberries, which left a little fizz on the tongue, was superb.

White chocolate panna cotta dessert. Image: Wullie Marr/DC Thomson

A small cupcake with a flare in it was also presented to Elise, a lovely touch to mark such an occasion.

We could barely move by this point but I thought it was about time to settle our bill before the birthday girl ordered anything else. While the food is fantastic, it does come with a heftier price tag as you’d expect. That said, we headed to the secret speakeasy, 21 Crimes, which lies underneath the restaurant – one to certainly check out if you haven’t already.

The verdict

Having not visited Vovem in so long until more recently I was really impressed with just how good the food was.

Service was brilliant, but for me, the real heart of this venue lies within the kitchen. These are chefs who care about their craft and who care about the produce. It’s easy to tell just by watching how they cook and present the dishes.

The view from the front of the restaurant with the kitchen tucked away at the back. Image: Wullie Marr/DC Thomson

I could not recommend the venue more and it was great to see somewhere so meat-based offer an outstanding selection of seafood dishes, too.

If you’re looking for an extra special experience though, be sure to try and book the Chef’s Table. We loved being able to watch our food being cooked from the table and it really did make my sister’s night.

I have to commend the team on a fantastic night, one neither my sister or I will forget.

The restaurant is also absolutely gorgeous and really has that wow factor when you walk through the bar into the main dining area.