Legend has it that a ghostly white lady floats about Ardoe House but, after looking high and low, I could only see a bridal party – and that didn’t really count.
There is a lot of history on the menu here: as soon as we rolled up early one Saturday evening, I said straight away, “This looks like Balmoral.”
That is no coincidence, of course, as this is one of the best examples of castellated architecture around, with its impressive display of towers and turrets.
And the people who built it made no secret of wanting it to mirror the Royal holiday residence on Deeside.
It is worth coming here just to stand and admire its magnificent facade and spectacular arched entrance. There are more treasures inside: a superb hand-crafted wooden staircase is a vision of opulence and a sweeping hallway really sets it off.
There were plenty of other original features, too, but our mission had brought us to dine at Ardoe’s Blairs restaurant.
We stopped off in the bar for a pre-dinner drink. The staff were very attentive and even popped down to the restaurant to bring us menus to peruse.
So, when we did present ourselves to the head waiter we were already prepared with our choices.
Blairs is split between two rooms, but both offer a high level of country house comfort – the perfect setting for a gourmet dinner.
It was also quite busy with guests staying for the weekend and it seemed a number of them were regulars, judging by the repartee between them and waiting staff.
For starters: game terrine with baby capers and mustard aioli and Orkney crab, with apple jelly and cucumber.
These were packed with great taste combinations and, above all, were superbly presented.
My crab came in what can only be described as something akin to a gold fish bowl on a “plate” of wood and slate. It had to be seen to be believed, but it was breathtaking.
We had looked at a few customer reviews, which made a point that the food at Ardoe was a little more expensive than most, but all agreed that it was justified for the level of fine dining on offer.
We both agreed with that assessment and we could add that the quality of the service was also excellent: the well-drilled waiting staff were friendly, attentive and efficient – and the delivery from the kitchen was fast, but with care and attention lavished on every dish, despite it being busy and with a wedding party, too.
The opening act had been a show-stopper, but the mains matched it: slow-braised shin of Angus beef, with a Bourguinion garnish and mash, and cod with a chorizo coating, pea and leek risotto, and an orange and star anise veloute. We also shared a bowl of Chantenay carrots.
They were again presented in beautiful big serving bowls and the size of the serving was generous.
A member of staff tipped us off that the beef was braised for hours and my wife could tell because it was packed with flavour and oh so tender.
I had read a customer review somewhere that the cod dish lacked flavour, but it looked so attractive I decided to try it for myself.
The flavour of the chorizo seemed a bit lost to me and there were too many fussy green leaves to chop through but, apart from that, the beautifully white fleshy fish and satisfying risotto made up for it. I would choose it again.
I mentioned that the service was fast, but, before puddings, we were asked if we would like a 15-minute timeout to catch our breath.
That was a nice, thoughtful touch, but we were getting high on Ardoe’s culinary delights and so ploughed on.
In a land where sticky toffee pudding and cheesecake are kings, our final choices were so delightfully innovative.
We rounded off with “Dark Chocolate Delice”, with Clementine ice cream and orange gel, and banana prepared different ways, including a sponge, and salted caramel ice cream. They were simply stunning.
Ardoe has a royal feel from the outside, but we had been royally treated at the dinner table, too.
- MERCURE ABERDEEN ARDOE HOUSE HOTEL
- SOUTH DEESIDE ROAD,
BLAIRS, ABERDEEN.
PHONE 01224 860600.