Review: Craighaar Hotel is a cosy throwback to traditional dining

The view across to the P&J Live arena from Stoneywood in Aberdeen took on deeper meaning for me as I headed to dinner.

The events complex near Aberdeen airport is undoubtedly an impressive sight.

But also an important beacon showing how essential brands adapt through social upheaval.

Nestling in the foreground of this nicely-framed picture occupying my gaze was another institution – the venerable Newhills bowling club and playing green.

I think a sign outside dates its history back nearly 120 years.

My first impressions of The Craighaar Hotel and Restaurant

My vantage point was the car park opposite at The Craighaar Hotel and Restaurant where we had dropped in for an early evening meal.

This establishment slipped somewhere in between the other two buildings in the historical timeline; at first sight it reminded me of a motel in one of those old American movies.

Bedrooms ran at right-angles from the reception entrance along the car park.

As we strolled in, it struck me that all three places seemed to have evolved to match shifting social habits around how we enjoy ourselves today.

Craighaar, for example, announces its dining philosophy as a fusion of traditional old favourites with a modern twist.

Anyone who dines out regularly will have seen this mealtime mission statement on many menus; a tricky balancing act which requires a lot of attention to get right.

I like a bit of atmosphere, but suspected it was going to dead at 6.30pm on a Wednesday.

Happily, I couldn’t be more mistaken.

We could hear the pleasing hubbub of diners as we ventured deeper inside.

The restaurant stretches back into a galley shape with cosy booths on either side offering tables for two or four.

With my wife’s knee requiring extra legroom after replacement surgery, they kindly put us into a booth for four, which was much-appreciated by us; great customer care.

A seasonal British menu that marries traditional favourites with imaginative fare

Our starters were soon with us.

Gooey warm Camembert bursting from deep-fried breadcrumb wedges (£8.50) – with peach and honey dipping sauce – didn’t disappoint, but they are always a crowd pleaser.

I had sautéed king prawns in garlic butter with cherry tomatoes and lemon (£8.50), served with warm sourdough bread to dip.

For mains, featherblade of beef (£26) for my wife with creamed mashed potato, charred shallots, asparagus and a rich beef jus.

A classic dish of comfort food if ever there was one.

We were assured by our waiter that it had been slow-cooked for hours and it really did collapse under the knife in a mountain of luscious tenderness.

Creamed mashed potato, charred shallots, asparagus and a rich beef jus accompanied the featherblade of beef.

Roasted rump of lamb (£21) for me, but I requested medium-well done rather than the pink finish which is the accustomed practice, of course.

It’s just the way I was brought up with our mum and grannies ruling the roost in the kitchen; chef duly obliged and I enjoyed several excellent cuts with mint salsa verde and grilled asparagus.

Small chunks of parmentier potatoes were served with the lamb rump.

I had small chunks of parmentier potatoes served with mine, but kept wishing I’d ordered mash like my wife (I’m sure the friendly staff would have done it).

Puddings became a game of pass-the-parcel.

My wife chose steamed apple-sponge pudding and custard (£8), while I had vegan spiced rice pudding (£7.50) topped with grated cinnamon and delicious mixed berry compote (the latter an odd choice for someone who had just chomped through lamb, but I love rice pudding).

The apple-sponge pudding and custard costs £8.

However, she asked to swap puddings with me a few mouthfuls in after a sudden change of mind; not a problem as any apple and custard dish is another favourite of mine.

The only thing is that we both found the rice a little chewy as though it was slightly underdone.

Looking around, there was a nice mix of guests of all ages – some small family groups, others might be colleagues on a training course.

A few tradesmen peppered about; working away from home on contracts, I guessed.

I’d seen a couple of ubiquitous white vans parked outside (and they were actually within their bays and not mounting the pavement or blocking people in).

The verdict

According to staff at the Craighaar Hotel there’s also plenty of spin-off trade from P&J Live.

There’s a traditional gentlemen’s-club effect going on here in the decor: I strolled into the “library” and apart from books lining the walls there were also some of those wonderful old pictures of Victorian folk enjoying themselves with a tipple.

I noticed quite a few were copies of the work of painter Walter Dendy Sadler, from Dorking, who was active in the Victorian and Edwardian eras. Sotheby’s once sold one of his originals for £150,000.

A perfect backdrop for eating out, as was the “club” lounge down a corridor which keeps this effect going with plush chairs, dimmed lights and open fire.

Very convivial and exactly the sort of place I’d enjoy dozing off in after a satisfying evening of self-indulgence.

The bill came to almost £92 without alcohol, which we felt a little high, but maybe it’s the cost of living effect.

Previously, I would have categorised this as a classic £75 to £80 meal-for-two, but we’re all feeling the pinch now.

Craighaar Hotel is a cosy throwback to traditional dining, but with a switched-on modern approach to attract customers seeking easy-access on the city’s outskirts.

A bonus when driving to the centre of Aberdeen is perceived as a major turn-off due to parking costs and confusing new traffic restrictions.