We were saying our goodbyes to staff clearing up at the end of the night at Tarragon on the Terrace when my wife nodded over my shoulder.
I followed her gaze down the street beside Union Terrace Gardens (UTG) in Aberdeen and spotted our host and chef/patron Graham Mitchell making his departure, too.
It was a bonus as it gave us an opportunity to observe his other pride and joy as he rode off – his new electric scooter.
Several write-ups have made mention of this scooter and its versatility, as he whizzes between the new business here in town and its parent restaurant – Tarragon by Graham Mitchell – just up the road in Rosemount.
I envied him in many ways; coming and going as he pleased, with relatively little hindrance.
‘Simple yet classic dishes’ on the menu
As compared with our short journey across town to go for a meal, which should be so simple as to not give it a second thought.
Now it’s like planning the D-Day landings to navigate Aberdeen City Council’s bus-gate traps and other stop-the-car obstacles.
I thought the council’s job was to do anything reasonable to smooth the way for businesses such as night-time eating-out places?
Hospitality has enough on its plate already – so to speak – with soaring costs and staff issues.
Travel arrangements around dining out can be quite stressful these days, can’t they?
We settled on Golden Square car park just around the back from Tarragon on the Terrace and a short walk away.
An illuminated evening glow from the grandly-refurbished UTG below was impressive and highlighted the wonderful views from the restaurant.
The stupendous Wallace monument close by and HM Theatre’s lightshow decorating its own magnificent building were trying to steal attention from the gardens.
The musical Ghost had just opened at HMT.
There’s a connection here, of course: the whole point of this location is that it feeds off HMT audiences over the road.
The menu reflects that – simple yet classic dishes – for people on the move, with one eye on the time.
What is Tarragon on the Terrace like?
The curtain only went up at Tarragon on the Terrace a few weeks ago, but by the time we arrived on a Tuesday night the early-evening theatre rush had subsided.
So we had our pick of the tables and opted for one by the window overlooking the gardens.
There was a casual yet elegant look about the décor; a modest size, but plenty of nooks and crannies.
One burning question had to be resolved before we went any further: it was about Mr Mitchell’s scooter habits.
Tongue-in-cheek, I asked our waitress if the scooter allowed Graham to work simultaneous shifts between kitchens.
I couldn’t get an image out of my mind of him leaving a simmering dish in one restaurant and speeding off in his chef’s hat to start another one in the second kitchen.
The amused waitress dissuaded me swiftly of that notion.
As we watched Graham disappear around the corner it served as a metaphor for his business plan.
He has arrived at another turning point by expanding into a second restaurant.
People might assume wrongly from the name Tarragon on the Terrace that it’s an exact copy of the upmarket relative; more of a deconstructed bistro version, actually.
The menu is not huge so you don’t agonise over endless choices, and familiar everyday favourites fill the space; “affordable” seems to be the buzzword.
Impressive starters at Tarragon on the Terrace
I began with Cullen skink; it was packed with delicious smoked fish and potatoes, but there was an exquisite extra touch.
It came with a rowie alongside, which I dipped enthusiastically; a perfect combination.
My wife tucked into another classic: prawn cocktail, which was full of flavour and a good portion.
For mains, I settled for beer-battered fish and chips with peas.
It was perfectly fine, but the batter was a bit heavy for me; I prefer it light and fluffy.
Also with hindsight, I would have upgraded to hand-cut chips rather than the standard fries I was served.
My wife went for the seven-ounce fillet steak just shy of £40.
We wouldn’t have worried too much, but for the fact that we thought the steak was on the small side for the heavyweight price tag.
I know the counter argument would be that it’s quality which counts, not taking a tape measure to it.
And there was no doubting its quality: cooked exactly to order and tasting superbly tender and succulent.
I’m just putting it out there as an eye-watering morsel, that’s all.
We rounded off with two classic desserts – sticky toffee pudding and an equally gooey chocolate cheesecake.
No quibbles about portion sizes. Both of these were delicious.
We were so content after the puddings that if we were going to the theatre afterwards, we might have nodded off well before the interval.
Verdict:
Tarragon on the Terrace is following in the footsteps of a number of previous restaurants which have occupied this attractive site.
Creating a distinctive profile and target market of its own within an instantly recognisable brand name, and with an award-winning chef at the helm.
The smallish menu purposefully packs in lots of everyday favourites, which means there is something for everyone here.
Information:
Address: 27-29 Union Terrace, Aberdeen AB10 1NN
T: 01224 413163
W: https://www.facebook.com/p/Tarragon-on-the-terrace-61559593851910/
Price: £117 for two glasses of prosecco, two beers, two starters, two mains and two desserts.
Disabled access: Yes
Dog friendly: Dogs allowed at lunchtime, and guide dogs are always allowed.
Scores
Food: 4/5
Service: 4/5
Surroundings: 4/5
You can read our other restaurant reviews here.
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