It’s eight years since I swapped Aberdeen for a life in the Highlands but I still visit the Granite City regularly. Each time I return I’m struck by how the city continues to evolve and grow, and that extends to areas outwith the city centre, such as Dyce. What was once a sleepy parish is now bustling alongside Aberdeen International Airport. With holidaymakers, business travellers and thousands of offshore workers visiting each week, Dyce has more than its fair share of places to eat, but new venues are always welcome.
The latest is luxury hotel, Crowne Plaza which is just a short suitcase-drag away from the terminal. Dominvs Hospitality invested £25million into the 165-bedroom hotel which aims to become a destination venue, where people come to eat and relax, not just pass through.
Our first impression was of contemporary style, with modern decor inspired by Scotland’s heritage – nice glass cabinets showcasing items ranging from sporrans to antler-horn cutlery. The Offshore Bar & Grill Restaurant is semi-open-plan with a lounge area and more private snug bar. It’s a lovely space filled with contemporary furniture, angular lines, leather booths and some funky lighting with hand-made bulbs which make it relaxing and stylish.
Such is the nature of the offshore world that it’s busy at the start of the week, but quieter at weekends and more laid-back. A warm welcome awaits from restaurant manager, Mark McKenzie. Over the course of the evening we learned Mark spent years working on cruise ships and that style of service shines through. At the helm in the kitchen is head chef Lee Campbell, who having previously worked at prestigious restaurants such as Gleneagles and the Lawn Restaurant in London, has returned to work in Scotland.
He aims to showcase the best of Scotland’s natural produce, and all the meat, and numerous other produce are sourced locally. While the mixed olives in a herb and confit garlic marinade would have come from more exotic shores, the Balmoral bread was very much a local product, as it comes from the royal estate on Deeside. Served on a board with an oil/vinegar butter and for a reason we couldn’t quite fathom, a large spoonful of sea salt, the warm bread and olives were perfect for nibbling on while perusing the menu.
I began with salmon and prawns while my daughter plumped for ham hock terrine with piccalilli and rye bread. My salmon was served in the style of a large dome, filled with a mixture of thick smoked salmon and juicy prawns in a light lemony dressing. It was delicious with a delicate flavour and nice texture. The ham hock, tender ham mixed with chives and wholegrain mustard was also first class while the rye bread and piccalilli were exceptional.
All the steaks are Campbells Gold standard and beef is dried on the bone for 21 days to ensure the best possible flavour, so it seemed good manners for at least one of us to try a steak. An eight-ounce sirloin for my daughter while I plumped for roast rump of lamb from the house specials. I tucked into two big chunks of perfectly cooked and seasoned lamb with melt-in-the-mouth dauphinoise potatoes and long green beans – and lots of lovely gravy. The menu may have said jus, but this was definitely old-school gravy, and it was first class. The steak was served on a wooden board with lovely thick-cut, skin-on chips, a superb large flat Black Isle mushroom, big plum tomato confit and a side order of peppercorn and brandy sauce.
In our house we’re over the trend for serving meals on boards/slate instead of gleaming white plates, but the steak was nicely presented and had a good charred flavour. She likes her steaks blue, sealed quickly on the outside and served cold in the centre. This was more of a rare steak which meant it was a tad bloody but she enjoyed it nevertheless. The mushroom and tomato got full marks for flavour, “absolutely superb” was her verdict, while the peppercorn sauce was extra peppery and added some heat.
For desserts, home-baked peanut butter glazed brownie for herself; the Scottish cheeseboard for me. The brownie was tasty enough but didn’t dazzle while the cheeseboard had a nice selection of cheeses including Mull Truckle, Howgate brie, Orkney Cheddar and the always fabulous, Strathdon Blue. Although it should have been served with quince, grapes, celery, rough oatcakes and local crackers, the biscuits were regular Jacobs – oatcakes would have been better I think.
With a nice selection of wines, an excellent array of whiskies and Scottish gins, a good menu and service, this restaurant makes a welcome addition to the north-east dining scene.