Michelin-star chef Tom Kitchin takes us through some classic recipes for the winter months
Coming up with a new dish always gets my heart racing and I love nothing more than trying fresh flavour matches inspired by nature itself. But there are still some classic recipes that are pretty hard to beat. Particularly at this time of year, when comforting, warming dishes are the preference, and lots of wonderful meat, game, shellfish and vegetables come into season.
French classics are some of my absolute favourites. It may be thanks to my training in some of France’s top restaurants but I really believe a French classic, prepared in a traditional way, is pretty hard to beat. Moules marinière is a great place to start as it’s an easy recipe that can be a simple supper served with a fresh loaf of crusty bread, yet it’s so incredibly tasty and satisfying.
Coq au vin is another French classic – a dish which I learnt when I was training under the great legendary French chef, Pierre Koffmann. The dish is a chicken casserole, braised with wine, lardons, mushrooms, and garlic – a very traditional, warming winter recipe, deep, rich and full of flavour. All the ingredients in a coq au vin belong together, and the long, slow braising process results in a meltingly, flavoursome tasty meat.
When it comes to winter desserts, an all-time winter favourite for many people has to be chocolate fondant. Nothing beats breaking the chocolate sponge to find warm, meltingly smooth chocolate inside. A perfect treat to warm up cold evenings right through winter.
CHOCOLATE FONDANT
SERVES 4-6
90g caster sugar
190g butter
190g 70% dark chocolate
4 egg yolks
3 whole eggs
40g plain flour
Pinch salt
4-6 metal moulds for cooking
40g butter for lining moulds
Sugar for lining moulds
Sift together the flour and salt. Melt the butter and chocolate together in a heat-proof bowl over simmering water. Whisk together the eggs, yolks and sugar until pale and fluffy. Fold in the melted chocolate, then fold in the sifted flour.
Butter 4 metal dessert moulds with a pastry butter brush, brushing upwards helps the fondant to rise evenly. Coat this in cocoa, tipping out any excess.
Fill each mould with the mixture until three-quarters full, then leave in the fridge to firm up for at least 4 hours, but if possible overnight.
Pre-heat oven to 180°C, bake for 8 minutes then allow to rest for 2 minutes before turning out on to a plate.
Serve with your choice of cream or ice cream.
COQ AU VIN
SERVES 4
1 free-range or corn-fed chicken, cut up into legs, breasts, wings and thighs
vegetable oil
6 rashers of bacon, chopped
3 carrots, peeled and chopped into 2cm dice
1 onion, peeled and chopped
2 celery sticks, chopped
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
100g seasoned flour
1 bottle red wine
250ml veal stock
MARINADE:
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
1 onion, peeled and chopped
3 celery sticks, chopped
1 bouquet garni
1 bottle Cabernet Sauvignon
GARNISH:
200g button mushrooms
4 baby leeks
100g bacon, cut into strips
1 tablespoon olive oil
knob of butter
Put the chicken in a large bowl with the marinade vegetables and herbs. Cover with wine and leave to marinate for 24 hours. Afterwards, drain the chicken and pat it dry with kitchen towel. Discard the marinade wine and vegetables, as they will have become bitter.
In a large heavy-bottomed pot, heat a teaspoon of vegetable oil over medium heat and add the bacon, carrots, onion, celery and garlic. Cook until the bacon is crisp and the vegetables golden.
Meanwhile, heat a tablespoon of vegetable oil in another pan. Dust the chicken pieces with the seasoned flour and sear in the hot oil until golden brown all over. Add the seared chicken to the vegetables and pour in enough red wine to cover. Bring to the boil and then reduce the heat to a simmer.
Add the veal stock and bring back to the boil. Again, reduce the heat to a simmer and leave to cook until the chicken is very tender and begins to flake – 45-50 minutes.
Once the chicken is cooked, remove it from the pan and pass the sauce through a fine sieve. Set the vegetables aside. Pour the sauce back into the pan and reduce until it coats the back of a spoon. Put the chicken and vegetables back in the sauce ready to serve.
TO PREPARE THE GARNISH: Heat another pan and add the oil and butter. Add the mushrooms, baby leek and the bacon lardons, season and cook for 3-4 minutes.
If you make coq au vin in advance, keep the chicken in the sauce so it stays moist, and warm it up in the sauce before serving.
MOULES MARINIÈRE:
SERVES 4
2 large shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped
1 bay leaf
1 sprig of thyme
1.2kg mussels, washed and de-bearded
300ml white wine
1 handful of flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
Salt and pepper
Lemon wedge
In a deep, heavy-bottomed saucepan, sauté the shallots in olive oil until soft and translucent. Season to taste. Add the garlic, bay leaf and thyme.
Over high heat, add the mussels to the shallot mixture and toss to coat. Pour in the wine and cover with a lid. Cook for 5-7 minutes until the mussels begin to open – discard any that do not open.
Remove from the heat and mix in the freshly chopped parsley.
To serve, place the mussels in deep bowls, garnish with a wedge of lemon and serve with some crusty bread on the side to mop up the juices.