Michelin-starred Nick Nairn creates some warming recipes using the best of Scotland’s native produce
At this time of year there’s an abundance of pheasant available which makes it a good value-for-money option. Pheasant has a mildly gamey flavour and partners really with bacon and pancetta while the dressing below pulls everything together. People are sometimes a bit wary about cooking pheasant but when you get really good native ingredients and it is put together properly, then you don’t need to do much to make this a dish that really sings.
WARM PHEASANT AND PANCETTA SALAD WITH WINTER LEAVES AND LARGE CROUTONS
SERVES 2
4 breasts of pheasant
vegetable oil
50g pancetta
A knob of butter
Salad leaves (mizuna, watercress, rocket, any others available)
2 tbsp pomegranate seeds
A spring of thyme
Sea salt and freshly-ground pepper
FOR THE DRESSING:
4 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp sherry vinegar
1 tsp smooth mustard
1 tsp honey
FOR THE CROUTONS:
1 ciabatta loaf
Olive oil
Maldon salt
Preheat the oven to 160C. For the croutons, tear the ciabatta into bite-sized pieces, or cut if you prefer. Place in a large roasting tray, drizzle with olive oil and season with salt. Pop in the oven for about 10-15 mins, on a low heat until just crisp, but not too browned.
Remove the pheasant breast skin. Pat the meat dry. Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a frying pan over a high heat. Place the breasts in and brown all over for about 2-3 mins, turning often. Add a little butter and baste. Place the browned pheasant breasts on a tray to rest and season. In the same pan, fry the pancetta until well cooked.
For the dressing, whisk or shake all the ingredients together until emulsified. When the meat has rested, slice thinly. Lay the salad leaves and pomegranate seeds on the plate and top with the meat. Mix the meat juices from the pan and tray with a tablespoon of the dressing using a whisk or fork and drizzle over the whole salad. Serve immediately.
VENISON WELLINGTONS WITH ROASTIES AND KALE
SERVES 4
Around four months ago we introduced Beef Wellington as a quick cook class at the Cook Schools and it’s now outselling the perfect steak class which was our star class. It’s a classic dish that everyone loves and ideal for dinner parties as it can be made up in advance and left in the fridge overnight. This recipe is for individual Wellingtons with venison rather than beef, and wonderful Stornoway black pudding which makes it the perfect main course for any St Andrew’s Day or New Year celebrations.
4 loin venison steaks
2 tbsp vegetable oil
120g Stornoway black pudding, finely chopped
1 tbsp chopped flat parsley
Good pinch of thyme leaves
8 x 14cm squares of rolled puff pastry
1 egg beaten (for brushing on the pastry)
Maldon salt
FOR THE SAUCE:
240ml ruby Port
120ml red wine
200ml dark chicken stock
120g shallots, thinly sliced into rings
TO SERVE:
Kale and potatoes
Preheat the oven to 190C. Heat a frying pan on a moderate heat, season the steaks with salt and pepper and sear in a little oil for 30 seconds each side. Remove and set aside to cool. Add the shallots to the pan and cook for 2 mins to colour lightly. Add the port and red wine to the pan and simmer for a couple of minutes then remove the shallots and let cool. Put the pan with wine to one side to be finished later.
In a small bowl mix the chopped black pudding, parsley and thyme. Take a piece of pastry and place a steak in the centre. Top the steaks with the black pudding mix. Finish each with a layer of shallot rings. Brush the pastry around the steaks with the beaten egg then lay a second piece of pastry on each steak. Press down gently around the steak and brush with beaten egg. Cut off the spare pastry around each steak leaving a 1.5cm border. Take a fork and press the outer rim to decorate and seal. Gently prick the centre of the pastry to allow steam to escape.
Transfer the Wellingtons to a baking sheet and cook for 15-20 mins for medium rare (44C core temperature). Leave to rest for at least 10 minutes before serving. While the Wellington is cooking return the wine to the stove, simmer until reduced by half then add the stock. Simmer and reduce to taste.
For the kale, steam for four mins, tip onto absorbent paper to remove any excess liquid and season. Divide between four warm plates, cut each Wellington in half and set to one side of the kale, pour the sauce around and serve.