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Game, set and match

Michelin-star chef Tom Kitchin creates a selection of warming weekend suppers using Scottish chicken, game and meat
Michelin-star chef Tom Kitchin creates a selection of warming weekend suppers using Scottish chicken, game and meat

It’s been a pretty cold and harsh January, and February looks to be starting off in the same way. This time of year can mean lots of staying at home, enjoying nights in with friends and family and staying warm, comfortable and cosy. Whether you’re planning some weekend evenings spent at home with friends, or you’re perhaps planning a Valentine’s dinner, these recipes are perfect – hearty and comforting, but also impressive and absolutely delicious.

Game and meat can be wonderful at this time of year and very satisfying matched with seasonal greens and root vegetables.

Steak has to be one of my all-time favourite weekend suppers. So simple, yet it still feels really special. The key to a good steak relies on two things – quality and timing. If you’re cooking steak, make sure you source it fresh from your local butcher if you can, as you will really taste the difference. Get your hands on some outstanding steak sourced locally, and you don’t really have to do a lot to it to make it taste fantastic.

Venison is another great ingredient at this time of year, and one that feels that little bit special, but doesn’t have to be difficult or time consuming to make. You can roast venison loin really simply and serve it with some lovely winter vegetables, make a delicious slow cooked stew, or try something a bit different such as this delicious venison burger with celeriac veloute – a wonderful marriage of flavours at this time of year.

Chicken might not seem quite special enough if you’re entertaining or trying to impress on Valentine’s Day, but I actually think if you get your hands on some really good quality chicken, add some stand out seasonal fresh ingredients, and serve it in a special way, your guests and loved ones are sure to be impressed.

 

ROASTED CHICKEN WITH WILD GARLIC PESTO

SERVES 4

yl-KitchinChicken

4 free range chicken legs

400g wild garlic leaves

1 clove of garlic

25g butter

Olive oil for cooking

Sea salt and freshly ground/cracked black pepper

1 tbsp lemon juice

FOR THE PESTO:

50g toasted pine nuts

60g wild garlic leaves

50g grated parmesan

125ml extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

TO MAKE THE PESTO: Blanch the wild garlic leaves in salted water until tender. Refresh in iced water briefly. Chop the leaves finely. Blend with all remaining ingredients in a food processor to create a rough puree. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

TO MAKE THE CHICKEN: Heat a heavy based, lidded pan over a moderate heat. Add the oil and half of the butter. Season the chicken legs with salt and pepper. When the butter begins to foam, you can add the chicken legs and roast until the legs are browned all over. Add the clove of garlic, and cover the pan with a lid and allow the chicken legs to roast gently for 20-25 minutes, turning regularly to colour all over. Meanwhile, blanch the wild garlic in salted water for a few minutes until soft. remove the lid and add the lemon juice, the rest of the butter, wild garlic and wild garlic pesto and leave the flavours to infuse before serving.

 

STEAK AU POIVRE

SERVES 2

yl-KitchinSteak

2 filet steaks (250g each)

2 tablespoons cracked black pepper

1 tablespoon wholegrain mustard

200ml cream

1 dash of brandy

25g butter

Olive oil

Salt

Heat a non-stick frying pan, and add a splash of olive oil. Season the steaks all over with salt and cracked black pepper, pushing the pepper right into the meat. Add the steaks to the pan. I like mine medium rare so cook them for about 4-5 minutes on each side – you can vary that time depending on how rare you like your meat.

Once cooked, remove from the pan and rest for 5 minutes before serving, and make sure you keep the pan and the beef jus aside to make the sauce.

For the sauce: Add a splash of brandy to the pan you used to cook the steak. You can flambé it, if you’re feeling adventurous. Add the cream, mustard and a tablespoon of the beef jus. Cook the sauce in the pan until it thickens.

To serve: Place the steak back in the sauce and cover the meat all over with the sauce. Serve with seasonal vegetables or potatoes.

 

VENISON MEATBALLS AND POLENTA

SERVES 4

yl-KitchinVenison1

FOR THE MEATBALLS:

560g Venison mince

60g breadcrumbs

80ml whipping cream

6 Juniper Berries, the seeds from 1 cardamom pod, 1g cumin seeds (all lightly toasted and finely ground)

Salt & Pepper

Mix together all the ingredients thoroughly (either by hand or in an electric mixer using a paddle attachment). Mould into 20g meatballs (seven meatballs in a portion) and chill until ready to cook. To finish, sauté the meatballs in a non-stick pan until golden brown all over. Turn the heat down low and continue cooking until the meatballs are fully cooked in the centre then drain them of any excess fat and drop them into the venison sauce (see below).

VENISON RED WINE SAUCE:

125g Venison trimmings

75g shallots

1 small sprig Thyme

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon cracked black pepper

100ml white wine vinegar

375ml red wine

2 litres veal jus

25g butter

Salt & Pepper

Pan roast the venison trimmings until well caramelised, drain any excess fat in a sieve. Pan roast the shallots until well caramelised, add to them the caramelised venison trimmings, thyme, bay and black pepper, stir everything together briefly. Add the vinegar and reduce to a syrup. Add the wine and reduce to a syrup.

Add the veal jus and bring to the boil, skimming away any excess fat or debris on the surface. Remove from the heat and leave to infuse for one hour. Strain the sauce through a fine sieve. Chill until ready to serve. When serving, bring to the boil and stir in the butter to finish the sauce. Add the cooked meatballs to finish.

FOR THE POLENTA:

300g coarse polenta

1 litre chicken stock

Salt

4 tablespoons whipped cream (seasoned with salt and freshly grated nutmeg)

25g Butter

1 onion, finely diced

1 clove garlic, finely diced

1 tablespoon olive oil

100g spinach leaves (washed and dried)

Heat the chicken stock in a pan and keep warm. Sweat the diced onion and garlic in the olive oil in a heavy-based pan until completely soft. Add the butter and stir briefly to melt. Add the polenta and stir through the butter and onions to coat the grains.

Turn the heat down low and add the warm stock gradually, whisking the mixture continuously to avoid it sticking and burning. Keep cooking until the grains are softened and cooked with very little ‘bite’ left. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the spinach until wilted.

Stir in the seasoned whipped cream to create a ‘marbled’ effect and serve immediately with the meatballs, sauce and seasonal vegetables.