This week our restaurant reviewer visits a new pop-up restaurant in Inverness.
Jessica Fletcher and Miss Marple can sleep easy tonight – it seems unlikely I’ll be offered their jobs.
My detective skills simply aren’t up to scratch; proof coming to light during a visit to new Asian restaurant, Tiger on the Wall, in Inverness.
We were halfway through our starter when I suddenly realised, the exotic patterned wallpaper in the dining room of the Victorian townhouse depicted, hundreds of times over, a tiger coming out of the jungle.
I’d thought it was just a bonnie pattern until I spotted it, then I couldn’t unsee it, if you know what I mean.
But which came first, the wallpaper or the restaurant name?
The name – the wallpaper was intentionally chosen by the team after the name was selected.
The restaurant, described as a pop-up, is situated within historic Strathness House Hotel on Ardross Street, and is in prime position to enjoy views of the River Ness, castle and St Andrew’s Cathedral.
Thanks to an excellent website, I now know the house was built in 1874 by a Mr Matheson, of Merchant Shipping company Jardine & Matheson, a firm founded more than 30 years before then, in China.
Fast forward to 2020, and in a twist of fate, it is Oriental and Indian food on offer here since the hotel was taken over in January by Black Sheep Management Services Ltd, which has several hotels in the Highlands.
Plans to open the 50-seater restaurant were delayed due to lockdown, so initially it launched as a takeaway service, which we tried, and enjoyed. This time, we were dining indoors.
First impressions were good as the exterior has been beautifully decorated for Christmas, making it look really inviting and festive.
We stepped into the vestibule, used the hand sanitiser, rang the bell and waited to be admitted.
Top tip: look around while waiting as there’s fantastic old black and white pictures of the house and surrounding area from bygone days to be enjoyed.
Once inside, we confirmed our contact details for track and trace, and had our temperature taken. Only then were we escorted to the dining room on the right – there’s also one to the left across the reception hall.
Tables and chairs were well spaced out, and we were lucky enough to be seated at a nicely dressed table by the window where we watched the world go by.
The menu, which isn’t too large, is split into Indian and Oriental choices but it’s fine to choose from both, or the specials board.
My partner took the Indian route while I followed the silk road to China.
His starter, crunchy lentil bites, served with a crisp, beautifully sliced salad and a sweet but spicy coconut and mustard seed dip, was superb.
Yellow lentils, loaded with spice and rolled into crisp-coated balls, were an eye-opener – so good, I’ve since tried to find a recipe for them.
My salt and pepper prawns also got full marks. Half a dozen really large prawns in a light, crispy batter, wok-fried with green, red and yellow peppers, sesame seeds, pak choi, spring onions and garlic.
Sweet and juicy prawns, washed down with a Martini Rossi, made me feel I was living the high life as dining out has been a rare treat of late.
Our friendly, mask-wearing waiter Eurico, cleared our dishes away and asked if we’d like to wait 10 minutes or so before our main course – another nice touch.
Hot plates were delivered before the mains. Hot garlic chicken for me – wok-fried chicken tossed in a spicy, chilli, garlic sauce served in a deep-sided bowl, alongside a smaller bowl of perfectly cooked, steamed white rice.
Again it ticked all the boxes with lots of juicy chunks of chicken smothered in a thick, rich, garlicky sauce.
Across the table, contented sounds came from my partner as he tucked into his vegetarian Mangalorean curry from the specials board.
Bright yellow, it looked like a bowl of pure sunshine, and had the same warming effect.
Potatoes, cauliflower, mangetout and other veg in a medium-strength sauce loaded with subtle flavours of coconut, cumin, garlic and coriander.
To accompany these, we had a butter garlic naan and a tandoori roti – two types of bread made with different flours, explained Eurico.
Neither were huge or doughy, but smaller, thinner and crisper versions which were just as good at mopping up sauce.
Although described as a pop-up restaurant, this welcome addition to the Inverness dining scene is here to stay – future plans include a refurbishment and larger capacity for guests.
The restaurant
Tiger on the Wall
Strathness House Hotel,
4 Ardross Street
Inverness IV3 5NQ
t: 01463 232765
w: www.tigeronthewall.com
The bill
Price: Salt and pepper prawns, £8; lentil bites, £6.50; hot garlic chicken, £10; Mangalorean curry: £9; tandoori roti, £1.50; butter garlic naan, £2: 1 Cobra beer, £3.50; 1 Martini, £4; 2 x 250ml red wine, £14.50
Total: £59
The score
Food: 4/5
Atmosphere: 3/5
Service: 5/5
Total: 12/15