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Restaurant review: Brora’s Royal Marine Hotel is a glamorous addition to the north’s eating out scene

By Susan Welsh

October 22 2022, 6:00 am

There is lots to like about the Royal Marine Hotel, Brora. Images: Sandy McCook/DC Thomson.

This year has been a strange one for me.

A rare bacteria invaded my body, resulting in long hospital stays in Inverness and Edinburgh and two close calls to meet my maker.

But, as golfers say, “I’m still this side of the grass” thanks to our wonderful NHS.

I’ve no complaints about hospital food and can heartily recommend the soup and curries at Raigmore Hospital.

But what I did miss after weeks in the ward, was sitting down to eat at a nicely set table.

So I’d pass the time thinking about favourite restaurants visited in the past and those I’d like to visit when I got the all clear.

The Royal Marine Hotel in Brora

Top of the list was the Royal Marine Hotel in the Sutherland town of Brora.

More than 100 years old, it was originally the private home of Scottish architect Sir Robert Lorimer.

Now owned by Highland Coast Hotels and having had a massive renovation, it opened in June.

It retains the feel of a grand country house, but one that is luxurious and very stylish thanks to a blend of original fittings and fixtures, antiques, elegant seating and ambient lighting.

The Royal Marine Hotel, Brora, has the feel of a grand country house.

After being warmly greeted in the reception hall we were shown to our table in The Curing Yard Restaurant, named in homage to the days when Brora had busy herring fishing and curing industries.

The elegant restaurant comprises two rooms each decorated in slightly different art deco style.

There’s a variety of seating options to suit everyone, from solo diners to family groups, while the green floral material used on the banquette seating is stunning.

There’s lots to admire – model ships and local artwork on the wall to fresh flowers on each table.

Our maitre d’ was charming and well informed, and talked about the hotel’s history and use of local produce.

The food

While browsing the menu, which contained lots of historical information about Brora, I sipped a delicious homemade strawberry lemonade while my partner plumped for a nice glass of Sauvignon Blanc.

Meanwhile, the two small warm rolls delivered to our table were ideal for nibbling on while waiting for our starters.

My partner began with one of his favourites, Cullen skink soup, served in a quirky-shaped bowl.

The Cullen skink was lacking in fish and flavour.

It looked lovely but lacked fish or smoky fish flavour with the overall impression being that of tatties and milk.

Post visit I mentioned this to a pal who also had the soup there. Hers was packed with fish so I guess we were just unlucky.

I chose Clynelish cured local trout for my starter, as the distillery is just along the road.

Topped with two pieces of perfectly cooked fresh, buttery asparagus, it included three pieces of tender and juicy pink trout.

Beneath this was a generous portion of diced, crunchy apple and radish remoulade which gave it a candy floss pink colour.

Individually each ingredient was tasty but I don’t think they particularly complemented each other – the remoulade overpowered the subtle whisky flavour of the trout, for example.

There’s a good choice of main courses and the Highland lamb sounded good, but at £30 for two cutlets (I checked with the waitress how many there were) I thought it seemed a tad pricey so went for the hotel’s own beef burger at £18 instead.

Himself chose the smoked and pickled seafood board for one, priced at £24, along with a portion of chunky chips at £4.

If the starters had been a little disappointing, the mains made up for it.

My burger, served in a toasted, sweet brioche bun, would have made Desperate Dan smile.

The beef burger was very tasty and filling.

So large it was impossible to pick up, it was packed with a decent-sized solid beef burger, a generous slice of haggis, slice of back bacon and plenty of perfectly melted cheese.

Crisp lettuce, tangy salsa and pickle added layers of crunch and flavour.

It came with a bowl of lightly-battered onion rings and a bowl of hot chunky chips, nicely browned on the outside and fluffy inside.

I shudder to think how many calories this superb dish contained but it was worth it as it was really tasty and filling.

The eye-catching seafood board offered plenty of variety.

The seafood board also got the thumbs up thanks to a good selection of cold and hot smoked trout, smoked mackerel, sea bass escabeche, sublime kedgeree arancini and two types of mayonnaise, one flavoured with truffle, the other with a hint of garlic.

For us is was the first time of trying smoked queenies – miniature scallops, which packed a mighty flavour punch.

To finish, we shared a cheeseboard featuring cheeses from nearby Tain.

Tain Truckle cheddar, Strathdon Blue, Fat Cow plus grapes, tomato chutney and mini oatcakes.

The cheeseboard would have benefitted from being served at room temperature.

These are flavour-rich cheeses best enjoyed at room temperature but they were served stone cold.

Perhaps they could consider asking people to order the cheese board as the same time as their mains so this could be avoided as they really are excellent cheeses.

The verdict

The Royal Marine Hotel is a glamorous addition the north’s eating out scene.

While prices are on the high side, locals living within 15 miles of a Highland Coast Hotel can take advantage of a discount card offering 30% off in the restaurant and bars.