Salt of the earth, genuine and someone who remains calm under pressure is the impression I got of Kevin Dalgleish when he recently competed on BBC Two’s Great British Menu.
While other professional chefs – who shall remain nameless – came across rather diva-esque on the TV programme, the esteemed Aberdeen chef subtly avoided any drama instead focusing on his mouth-watering masterpieces.
It’s for this reason that my partner Andy and I were excited about visiting Amuse, his award-winning restaurant in the city’s Queen’s Terrace which earlier this year was named in the prestigious Michelin Guide for Great Britain and Ireland.
Amuse by Kevin Dalgleish
Perhaps reflecting his quietly confident and unshowy nature, Amuse is tucked away in the basement of an attractive granite townhouse.
Making our way through a black wrought iron gate and down the stairs, the element of intrigue and mystery certainly added to the sense of occasion as we made our way inside.
Within seconds of arriving, we were shown to our table by one of the super professional yet friendly servers.
Sinking into our seats, we soaked up our surroundings with exposed brickwork, striking artwork and dim lighting creating a chic yet relaxed atmosphere.
Booking our table for a Thursday evening at 7pm, the restaurant was quiet apart from a large party round the corner. Although, it quickly filled up later on.
After taking our drinks order – a gin and tonic for me and a beer for Andy – we turned our attention to the most important part, the food.
The food
Having both drooled over the incredible dishes Kevin nonchalantly whipped up on TV, Andy and I were like kids in a sweet shop as we devoured the menu.
After hearing our proclamations of hunger, our friendly server suggested we should order more than one starter each and also brought us some complimentary bombay mix and crackers to nibble on which we thought was a lovely gesture.
A self-confessed carnivore, Andy opted for the beef tartare (£15.50) for his first starter and lobster (£18) for his second.
Now I might be biased but I firmly believe Aberdeenshire beef is the best in the bovine business and I would urge anyone who disagrees to try Kevin’s beef tartare.
Melt-in-the-mouth with a rich flavour, the meat was so delicious that it could easily be enjoyed on its own but with the subtle saltiness of the capers mixed with the acidity of the gherkin and married together with the creamy egg yolk, it was a cut above.
A work of visual art, my scallops (£16) turned heads as they were brought out of the kitchen with waves of dry ice billowing from the plate.
Sourced from Orkney by a diver who collects them by hand, the scallops were sweet and succulent.
Perfectly complementing the scallops was a sea vegetable consommé – a clear soup that was so good I wanted to tip the shell up to finish every last drop – while a sprinkling of caviar added class and saltiness and the nasturtium plant brought a peppery kick to the party.
Opposite me, Andy made short work of his second starter of raviolo of poached Johnshaven lobster and Orkney scallop buttered spinach with sea vegetables, basil and shellfish bisque (£18).
Stealing a forkful, my palate came alive with a sea of flavours and textures from the sweet, saltiness and smoothness of the lobster to the creaminess of the scallop buttered spinach and a shellfish bisque that was so good that Andy savoured every last drop.
Blown away by our starters, we wondered what treats awaited us for our mains.
After having my fish fix, I was in the mood for meat so I ordered the roe deer (£39), a dish Kevin created on the Great British Menu as a tribute to Olympic rower Dame Katherine Grainger.
Words can’t describe how incredible this dish tasted.
From the tender Inverness-shire roe deer and the Fettercairn whisky and peppercorn sauce to the braised shin and haggis sautéed cavolo nero (green cabbage) and the celeriac purée and beetroot, this dish is so good it should never be taken off the menu.
Also in a deeply happy place, Andy raved about his North Sea monkfish (£32).
Now they do say that the ugliest fish are the tastiest and that is 100% true when it comes to monkfish.
With its mild and sweet flavour and meaty texture, the Konro grilled monkfish was a seafood lover’s dream.
Cutting through the subtle fish flavour was the slight spiciness of the peppercorn sauce with creaminess from the pomme puree and crunch from the hispi cabbage.
The fact that our plates were gleaming clean was hopefully a vision that heartened the chef.
And just when I thought nothing would top the mains, the dessert took the evening to whole new level.
The stuff of dessert dreams, the pavlova (£12) was the best I’ve ever tasted.
Chewy yet crunchy, the meringue was unreal while the juicy local strawberries added sweetness and mint leaves added a cool crispness.
A sharing board of three cheeses (£12) – served with chutney and grapes – was the perfect way to bring the night to a close.
The verdict
I moved up to Aberdeen nearly three years ago and I’ve been lucky enough to sample food from a number of top restaurants in the city and Aberdeenshire.
But I can hand on heart say that my meal at Amuse by Kevin Dalgleish has been my favourite so far.
Ever since we visited, I just can’t stop thinking about how good the food was and for me, that is always a sign of excellence.
It wasn’t only the food that was out of this world though as the service was 11 out of 10 too.
Honestly, the team were genuinely lovely which is something that undoubtedly filters down from Kevin.
OK, it’s not a cheap meal out at Amuse by Kevin Dalgleish but for me the love and care that Kevin puts into his locally sourced food is worth every penny.
Information
Address: 1 Queen’s Terrace, Aberdeen AB10 1XL
T: 01224 611909
Price: £162 for three starters, two mains, a dessert and a selection of three cheeses.
Disabled access: Yes (guests need to disclose when booking).
Dog friendly: Yes (guests need to disclose when booking).
Scores
- Food: 5/5
- Service: 5/5
- Surroundings: 5/5
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