From demure to dramatic, eyeliner was one of the biggest beauty trends on the AW15 catwalks. Katie Wright draws on the looks of the season
When it comes to autumn/winter beauty trends, the eyes most definitely have it: all the coolest catwalk make-up designs focused on prettifying the peepers, but we’re not just talking a standard smoky eye.
Make-up artists wielded eyeliner like a weapon, with everything from the classic cat-eye flick to the Sixties ’floating’ liner getting a fresh new-season remix.
These bold looks may take a bit of practice, but the pay-off will be so worth it, especially with party season right around the corner.
Steady hands at the ready, it’s time to toe the line…
BE PREPARED
Like any artistic endeavour, preparation is everything when it comes to perfecting your liner look.
Primer is essential for creating a blank canvas; a smooth, oil-free surface to which colour cosmetics can cling.
Benefit Air Patrol BB Cream Eyelid Primer, £21.50 contains SPF20, which we often forget about on our eyelids (www.benefitcosmetics.co.uk).
If you need a more tailored shade, Artdeco 3 in 1 Eye Primer, £11.60, Debenhams, comes in cool or warm tones (www.debenhams.com).
WINGING IT
Already perfected the cat-eye flick? Then why not take it up a notch with wider winged liner, as seen in teal on the Antonio Berardi catwalk and black at John Galliano.
“Unlike the classic flick, for this look you’re going to start with the wing,” explains make-up artist Lisa Potter-Dixon, author of Easy On The Eyes. “Draw a line from the corner of your eye, angled upwards towards the end of your brow. The longer this line, the more dramatic the look, so go as far as you dare. From the tip of this line, draw back towards the centre of the eye, but stop as you reach the middle of the eye. Fill in the gaps of the shape you have created.”
:: Benefit They’re Real Push Up Liner in Beyond Black, £18.50 (www.benefitcosmetics.co.uk)
:: Make Up For Ever Aqua Liner in Lagoon Green, £16, Debenhams (www.debenhams.com)
CROSSING THE LINE
At Giamba, the youthful off-shoot of Giambattista Valli’s main line, make-up artist Val Garland daubed tattoo-like designs around models’ eyes using black eye pencil.
The stars, hearts and musical notes might be a bit much for everyday wear, but Lily Donaldson’s sharp Z-shaped tick is totally achievable with Pur Minerals Double Ego Dual-Ended Eyeliner in Madagascar, £14, FeelUnique.com.
FLOAT ON
The most extreme interpretation of the Sixties throwback floating liner came at Rochas, where dense, black curves sat way outside the upper and lower lashlines.
The cartoon panda look isn’t for everyone, but Felder Felder’s softer take is much more accessible.
Start with a wash of neutral eyeshadow over the lid, then trace a crescent above the crease using Eye of Horus Goddess Pencil in Charcoal Obsidian, £15, BeautyBay.com.
There’s no need to be really precise, because afterwards you’re going to gently smudge and blend the line with a brush like the Bobbi Brown Dual Ended Eyeliner/Smokey Eye Liner Brush, £31, to give a more lived-in look (www.bobbibrown.co.uk).
THINKING BIG
The bigger the better was the mantra at House of Holland – thick black brushstrokes were plastered across the eye crease – and at Dior, where neat ovals of khaki, brown or plum extended almost to the eyebrow.
For this kind of super-liner, a powder or gel pot and brush are your best bet – the only question is: how bold do you dare to go?
:: Bobbi Brown Intense Pigment Liner in Black Plum, £26.50, (www.bobbibrown.co.uk)
:: Rimmel Scandaleyes Waterproof Gel Liner in Emerald, £6.99, Boots (www.boots.com)
:: Art Deco 2 Style Eyeliner Brush Premium Quality, £12, Debenhams (www.debenhams.com)
THE FINISH LINE
Been a bit heavy-handed with the liquid liner? Reach for the Bbrowbar Brow Corrector, £17, a clever two-ended (one wet, one dry) pen that will help you fix any slips (www.blinkbrowbar.com).
Now all you need is a couple of coats of mascara. Heavy eye make-up can make your eyes look smaller, so to counteract that effect, go for a curl-enhancing formula like NARS Audacious Mascara, £21, John Lewis, which uses tiny comb grips to separate and pull your lashes skyward (www.johnlewis.com).
Alternatively, amp up the grunge factor with lashings of Max Factor False Lash Effect Velvet Volume Mascara, £8.99, Boots (www.boots.com).
:: Easy On The Eyes by Lisa Potter-Dixon, £10.49, WHSmith