‘Where Rome was built on seven hills, Dufftown was built on seven stills’.
This age-old saying originates from Dufftown residents in the 1800s, in reference to their core export at the time: whisky.
Today, whisky still dominates the town nestled in the heart of Speyside, and one business in particular is showcasing some of the best local golden nectar around.
Seven Stills Whisky Bar and French Restaurant is run by husband and wife team, Rose and Patrick Bernaud.
The couple took the reins in 2016, and have spent the last five years refining Seven Stills’s identity, its namesake a nod to the original seven distilleries of Dufftown.
Locally sourced vodka, rum, gin and craft beer are all at hand for a tipple or two.
But Seven Stills’s showcase piece is its selection of over 300 malt whiskies, fit for whisky novices and geeks alike.
“I haven’t tasted all 300 whiskies here,” laughs Rose, “but I do like trying them.”
Rose and Patrick lived together in Burgundy, France for twenty years before moving to Dufftown to be closer to family.
Originally from Yorkshire, Rose moved to France when she was 18 for six months – which, before she knew it, turned into thirty years.
Me and Patrick just met in a park one day, started chatting and now we have four children together,” says Rose.
“I managed a charity association in France which aided and helped young people find housing.
“Patrick was a youth worker and he helped get people into cultural and artistic activities.”
The pair may have been surrounded by outstanding wine and culture living in Burgundy, but after a 2013 holiday to the north-east of Scotland, they realised that their joie de vivre no longer belonged in France.
“My husband always wanted to leave France and travel somewhere, and he really liked Scotland,” explains Rose.
“We loved the peace, tranquillity, amazing countryside, the culture, everything about it – we thought it could be a good opportunity for us.”
Three years later, that opportunity became a reality.
With the help of Rose’s brother who helped draw up an initial business plan, Rose and Patrick bought a historic inn formerly known as The Royal Oak in Dufftown.
The couple were keen to put their stamp on the place right away with a name change, renovation and new restaurant style layout.
However, entering a new country and a completely new career path did not come without its initial trepidations.
It was so scary when we first picked up the keys for the place, totally frightening in fact,” says Rose.
“Even though I was born in the UK, I’d never actually lived here as an adult so I’d never had an electricity bill or things like that.
“It was like coming in as a foreigner, which felt pretty daunting. It took me a while to get used to it.”
The couple’s first year may have been spent adapting to the “culture shock”, but Rose tells us that the main challenge they’ve faced over the last five years is finding their own personality as a business.
“Being in the hospitality industry, you have to get to know your customers, find out what they like,” she says.
“We had to learn on our feet, but keeping things simple and dealing with what we can cope with has been key.
“Realising it takes time to build a business has also been really important.
“You can’t open the first year and think that’s it. You need to make continual adjustments.”
Covid-19 has certainly had a major part to play among some of Seven Stills’s most recent adjustments.
Prior to the pandemic, 120,000 visitors would flock to the Glenfiddich distillery at the end of Seven Stills’s street each year, while many more would lather up the whisky trails and experiences on offer around the town.
But, of course, the last 18 months has been anything but usual and Rose feels that the town has been missing its “whisky geeks” with the change from international to local tourism.
Nonetheless, Seven Stills has been treating its customers to more exclusive dining experiences in its restaurant, halving its original table capacity and opting for a cosier, lounge type feel.
“It is like our own home,” says Rose. “Each person that comes in is a special guest to us.”
As well as serving traditional French cuisine from Patrick’s kitchen, Seven Stills also has a range of 300 whiskies available behind the bar.
“Whisky is like a language, there’s so much to learn,” says Rose.
“We have a lot of the classic ranges on offer, but for people a little more whisky-wise, there’s more specific options for them too.
“I go into local distilleries to get exclusive whiskies which people love to try – I’ve also bottled some of those myself.”
When it comes to drinks, local is the modus operandi at Seven Stills.
“We have a local distillery called Eight Lands who make their own organic vodka and gin so we support them.
“We’ve also got the Benromach distillery, Keith Brewery which sells us its handcrafted beers, Avva Gin in Elgin, there’s also a shop owner in Dufftown who’s created their own gin called Tenacious which is lovely.”
Though they haven’t been able to offer whisky tasting experiences due to Covid-19, Seven Stills is now welcoming bookings to its miniature snug – which Rose believes is the smallest snug in Scotland.
“We wanted to utilise this small space we had in collaboration with local artists,” she explains, “so a group have created a display of miniature artwork within the miniature snug.
“The artwork showcases miniature patchwork, needlecraft and paintings and you can order things like miniature whiskies and miniature haggis, neeps and tatties.”
But above all at Seven Stills, for two people who’d never previously worked in hospitality and were scared of what might lay ahead when they first opened, they are now relishing this new chapter in their lives in Dufftown.
People are special to us; we just genuinely enjoy hosting,” says Rose.
“Patrick loves to come out the kitchen, see customers’ faces and explain about how he’s made all the dishes.
“I have to keep ringing the bell to get him back in and keep on with the cooking! He just loves it.
“We always want to make sure that people are happy and have a good experience.
“I’ve really enjoyed meeting so many people and being in such a lovely part of the world.”
A round of questions with Rose Bernaud of Seven Stills…
Most underrated drink?
Scottish vodkas.
If you were a drink, what would you be and why?
I’d be a Hendricks – most peculiar.
Most unusual drink you’ve ever tried?
Not had any unusual drinks – I always go for safety, what I know.
Best food and drink pairing?
My husband’s crème brûlée with an Organic Monbazillac.
You have to serve your favourite superhero or celebrity a drink. Who is it and what do you serve them?
I’d serve David Attenborough a good old whisky for him to relax with by the fire to thank him for all the work he’s done for the planet.
If you were stuck on a desert island, what three drinks would be there with you?
A nice long, fruity mocktail – so that I don’t become a compete alcoholic. A gin and tonic – for semi-hydration but a bit of alcohol. Then if I was feeling pretty lonely on the island some days, I’d have my favourite whisky which is probably the Bladnoch Adela 15-year-old.
Any secret tips of the drinks trade?
Always treat your guests as if they’re in your own home.
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