We kissed goodnight on the Caledonian Sleeper and said “see you in Scotland.”
Panic to find a parking space, check your pockets for your passport, take off your watch and shoes to go through security, scramble together your belongings while the line behind you gets longer and wait for hours in a packed departure lounge drinking expensive coffee before arriving in the city with ears which haven’t yet popped.
Or: Park, walk along the platform to be greeted by a hostess, enjoy dinner as you head down the Scottish coast and arrive in London refreshed after a good night’s sleep.
The entertainment and shopping of London can sometimes seem far away when you look at it from the chilly distance of Aberdeen, but have you ever considered snoozing your way through the journey, on the Caledonian Sleeper?
The many carriages stretched out ahead as we walked down the platform of Aberdeen train station on Friday night. A full day of work wasn’t interrupted by the need to check in several hours ahead of time as you would if you were flying.
On the platform we were welcomed by our host for the journey, Stephanie. She got us checked-in and took our order for breakfast before showing us to our compartments.
For those who don’t mind sleeping in a seat, similar to a long-haul flight I would think, then there are the carriages full of seats, just as you would normally expect on the train. If you actually want to get some sleep and stretch out, then the sleeper berths are the place for you.
A complimentary sleep kit and a bed are yours for the evening. You can access the lounge when there is space and breakfast is available to purchase from the lounge car or the counter.
These berths are home to two bunks, and you may need to share with someone if you are travelling alone, and there may be a friendly debate as to who gets the bottom bed.
The first class berths offer extra space, with only a single bed in each so there is no need to share. When I say bed, I mean something which has hotel-quality pillows and a cosy warm duvet. We had berths with a door between them which Stephanie opened up for us. It made the small space even bigger and meant that we could share the exciting discoveries together as we explored the berths.
I was tempted to just get straight into bed, as it was after 10pm by the time we had made ourselves at home, but instead we ventured into the lounge car which first class passengers have priority access to. The little sofas have plugs next to them so that you can get some work done as you travel, but we took ourselves to one of the tables and had a little supper.
The Mr. had tomato soup, which he said was even better than Heinz. I had a lovely ploughman’s sandwich but there are also hot options such as haggis, venison salad or macaroni and cheese followed by snacks and dessert if you are particularly hungry.
Time travels quickly when you are having a nice time. The quiet atmosphere in the lounge car was relaxing and before we knew it we were crossing the Forth Rail Bridge and I was three glasses of wine down.
There is no WiFi on the sleeper train so be warned if you are planning to answer e-mails. Luckily there was plenty of good signal during the journey but I did the rare thing of putting down my phone. We watched the dark world pass by, chilled together and simply enjoyed each other’s company.
The stop at Waverley Station signalled the early hours of the morning and time for bed. Brushing my teeth was easy enough thanks to the hidden sink underneath the tabletop in each berth.
The trip to the toilet was a bit more of an adventure down the corridor, but luckily there was a pair of socks provided in the sleep kit. It was surreal, standing in my pjs, looking out at the dark station which I knew so well. I enjoyed looking out at the world so much I was a bit sad when the train moved on again.
Back to bed and I pulled out the sleep kit again, sprayed the pillow mist, washed my face with the toiletries and then snuggled down. I left the blind open so that I could watch the world go by, but the rocking of the train soon sent me to sleep.
The movement leads to a very unique type of sleep – at one point I felt like I was on a ship in the middle of the ocean. But when I woke up in Crewe, I was refreshed and ready for my breakfast.
The lounge car was quiet at half past six and Stephanie had set out breakfast trays on a table next to a window for us. Two piping hot Highland breakfasts with mushrooms, tomatoes, sausage, black pudding and breakfast potato were followed with a roll and jam, and coffee. I cradled my hot cup in my hands as I saw unfamiliar towns give way to the suburbs of London.
Before long we were in Euston Station and it was time to go adventuring in the city.
My fiance and I did all the tourist destinations while preparing our Christmas lists as we walked down Oxford Street. The toy store Hamley’s was packed full of Lego and games that adults can delight at just as much as the children.
Jumping on and off the Underground thanks to the super efficient Oyster cards, we decided against a West End show and instead spent our time exploring the many corners of the city. I stood in the place of Shakespeare’s Globe and drank in the watering hole of Charles Dickens.
At the end of three days I felt I had become a professional at managing the tube during rush hour – the most terrifying experience of my life!
If I thought that the bed in the sleeper was enjoyable, I discovered a new level of comfort at the London Bridge Hotel. The perfect place to base yourself, it sits in the shadow of The Shard which towers 95 storeys high.
A quick trip on the Underground from Kings Cross to London Bridge Station, the hotel sits back from the Thames and is a luxurious place to spend the weekend. The staff kindly kept our luggage for us before check in and we spent several hours wandering around the maze that is the Borough Market, sipping on mulled wine.
Feeling peckish, we found ourselves in the Quarter Bar and Lounge which is adjoined to the hotel. I could drink their lavender infused gin cocktail all day. And all night. Or their watermelon martini.
A chargrilled minute steak ciabatta filled up the tank while the other half had a mountain of a beef burger.
The massive breakfast buffet at the hotel featured everything from sizzling bacon and meaty sausages to fruit and pastries and the best scrambled egg I have ever had.
Fuelled by the feast, we walked miles around the city, from London Bridge to the London Eye to the Houses of Parliament then up past Number 10 and down to see the Queen.
If I didn’t have the Caledonian Sleeper to look forward to at the end of the weekend then I would have been sad to leave, but the warmth of the train beckoned me back to Scotland.
We were exhausted after a busy weekend and eager to get comfortable in the berth for the journey home. We were back on the train on Sunday night just before 9pm, ready to head back to Aberdeen, but the train also goes all the way up to Inverness.
This time we sat in the lounge car on the sofas and had a chat with the other travellers. It was a busy train heading north and there was a mix of people on business and pleasure, while another couple were visiting friends in Edinburgh. I didn’t even see Scotland’s capital this time, as I was fast asleep in my berth long before then. 
Monday morning started with scrambled eggs and Scottish smoked salmon as the sun came up over the coast. The last hour of the journey was a treat, zooming past the cliffs and sipping coffee while watching the commuters waiting for their trains at the platform in Stonehaven.
By half past seven we were back home in Aberdeen in perfect time to head straight to work. I’m already planning when I can do the trip again. I think it would make the perfect girly hen weekend, especially for those who don’t like to fly. What sounds better than a relaxing weekend in the city without losing a wink of sleep?
Want a trip on the Caledonian Sleeper?
Rates at London Bridge Hotel start at £99 at for more information or reservations visit www.londonbridgehotel.com or call +44 (0)20 7855 2200.
Caledonian Sleepers are overnight train services running between Scotland and London – getting you to your destination refreshed and ready to start your day.
Ticket Prices
• Sleeper Seats on Highland Route start at £40.00
• Standard Berths on Highland Route start at £85.00
• First Class Berths on Highland Route start at £135.00
Further Information
To make a booking for more information please visit www.sleeper.scot or call 0330 060 0500.
