It’s fair to say that forward planning is not one of my strengths.
And so it was that I found myself double-booked with dog-sitting duties on the same autumn weekend as I had arranged a trip to Glencoe.
There was only one thing for it, Ginny the Westie would have to join me on a trip to her ancestral West Highland homeland.
It soon became clear that I couldn’t have planned it better if I had tried.
As fate would have it, you’d be hard pressed to find a more dog-friendly hotel in Scotland than the Glencoe Inn.
Trip from Aberdeen to Glencoe offers stunning scenery
On our drive from Aberdeen, we stopped to take in some neck-swiveling views.
The shores of Loch Laggan are perfect for a picnic, and it’s always worth stopping to appreciate the epic Laggan Dam a few miles on.
Then a wee bit further west, there’s the Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge – with a glorious Ben Nevis backdrop.
We arrived at 3pm on a Friday afternoon.
Bear, the four-legged substitute clerk
The first member of the team to greet us was Bear, a five-year-old Jack Russell/Schnauser cross.
And he didn’t sound a bit cross as he barked at us from the comfort of an office chair.
But he seemed friendly enough, after letting us know who was boss.
Bear must act as a substitute service bell, because our friendly host Stella bustled into view after being alerted by the noise.
Stella quickly produced a biscuit for Ginny, and showed us around the “rabbit warren” of twisting stairways that make up the traditional hotel.
Hotel has a lot of character
The Glencoe Inn reopened in May following a refurbishment worth more than £500,000 – and I was immediately very impressed.
There’s a small and cosy bar on the ground floor, linking to a homely lounge complete with a glowing log fire, board games and even a marble chessboard.
This seemed the perfect thing for if the unpredictable west coast weather waylaid any hiking expeditions.
What is host’s special surprise?
After showing us to our Deluxe Loch View room, Stella led us along the corridor to a back door – promising me an “extra surprise”.
My eyes lit up at the sight of the hot tub and sauna, side by side in a private garden surrounded on all sides by breathtaking mountain and lochside views.
For someone who was wowed by the Nespresso machine in the room moments earlier, this was luxury beyond compare.
When I mentioned the idea of going out to stretch my legs before dinner time, Stella was quick to offer her local expertise with a suggested dog-friendly route around the village.
I had been fearing some of that unpredictable west coast weather, particularly after a recent rain-soaked weekend in Fort William.
But things were very mild as we set off on our stroll.
I’m usually to be found wandering around Aberdeen with earphones firmly lodged in at all times. But in a place like this, it’s best to leave them behind to appreciate the peace and quiet – and some more of that scenery.
Dinner is served
After spending an hour or two out and about, I was quite peckish by the time we went to the hotel’s plush Glencoe Gathering restaurant for dinner.
I was immediately intrigued by the lobster macaroni cheese, so ordered that with a plate of Stornoway black pudding, scallops and chorizo as the starter.
But the staff here take their Highland hospitality seriously. And before the starter arrived, they brought over an extra haggis bon bon – on a bed of onion chutney and with cheese oozing from the middle.
I’m no stranger to a haggis bon bon, but had never enjoyed one with cheese added before. It was delicious.
The chorizo was spicy and tasty – and soon had me ordering another pint of lager from the local Loch Leven Brewery.
The waiting staff brought Ginny a bowl of water – and then her own small tray of chorizo. I think she was enjoying this holiday lark.
To be honest, I was expecting chunks of lobster mixed in with the macaroni cheese, so I was taken aback when my dish turned out to be somewhat more extravagant.
There was an actual lobster, pincers held aloft, lying on the bed of creamy pasta. I managed to scoop out the flesh and jotted it down as another of the Glencoe Inn’s culinary triumphs.
The plentiful platefuls suddenly made me feel glad I’d only had fruit for lunch. Otherwise I may not have managed! I tottered off to bed, declining dessert.
Another walk is needed after that feast
I woke up on Saturday to discover Stella had popped an envelope through the door in the early hours.
“As promised, walks for you”.
There were pages of print-outs offering directions for a selection of outings, and I decided on nearby Inchree Falls.
It’s an easy walk, manageable for all abilities.
Within minutes of embarking uphill, you hear the rush of the series of waterfalls.
There’s a seated area to relax and take in the spectacle, and wonderful views of Loch Lihne and the hills of Ardgour if you continue along the path.
Oban isn’t too far away
After that, I headed into Fort William to meet a friend and we swung by the Ballachulish Hotel for lunch.
Keen to make the most of the weekend away, it was then off to Oban for a look.
By this time, the heavens had opened and the drive was spent edging around loch-like puddles.
It was quite a whistle-stop visit, but I’d never been to Oban before and I’d always wanted to see McCaig’s Tower – the town’s answer to Rome’s coliseum which looms down on residents from atop Battery Hill.
Glimpsing it from the harbour would have to do… As we needed to get back to the hotel for dinner, and to try that hot tub!
Thinking of a trip?
Every time I leave the west coast, I wish I had planned for a longer trip. This visit was no different.
For anyone planning their next trip, I can’t recommend the area strongly enough. And if you want to treat yourself, you’d struggle to find a better hotel than the Glencoe Inn.
It’s a place where Highland hospitality is not just a slogan, but a way of life embodied by every member of staff.
And that warmth extends just as much to their four-legged guests.
Travel facts
The Glenoce Inn, Glencoe Village PH49 4HP
Telephone: 01855 811245
