As a base for exploring the north-west Highlands, you couldn’t ask for more in terms of beauty or comfort than the spectacular Treetop House
From the elevated vantage point of our weekend retreat, all of Ullapool was mine to survey.
I was looking out of the broad windows to the front of the luxury cottage’s open plan living area, while the town quietly went about its business below.
Its chalk-white houses and slate-grey roofs were interwoven with the greenery of trees and all was bathed in the slowly setting sun – its golden rays accentuating the russet browns, reds and oranges which were slowly spreading across the land. Autumn’s gentle kiss.
This dappled patchwork stopped suddenly as it met the banks of Loch Broom. The wide expanse of water intersecting the land was the very picture of serenity, interrupted only by a handful of crabbing boats and yachts.
As I followed the line of the loch to the right, the water broadened still. I could just glimpse the low-lying extremities of the Summer Isles, and the great Atlantic beyond that. It was certainly a welcoming sight, especially for somebody like me who had never been to the west coast.
I had arrived just minutes earlier with my partner, Alex, and our friend Wendy for a two-night stay at Treetop House. One of two breathtaking architectural creations spinning out of the minds of Gavin and Rachel Anderson, the cottages are available for hire all year round, offering guests from all corners of the world the most stunning base of operations from which to explore the topographical, cultural and culinary delights of the north-west Highlands.
To the rear of Treetop House lies a beautiful garden – a steep escarpment filled with the greens of ferns and mosses mixed with the golds and silvers of birch, ash and rowan trees, and featuring a mini-waterfall as a natural centrepiece.
The cottage takes inspiration from the colour scheme and form of the garden. It cascades down the hillside like a series of circular rockpools, from the master bedroom at the very pinnacle, down past the guest bedroom below, the open plan living/dining area beyond that, and down to the vestibule and sauna on the ground floor.
The property is as much part of the land as a modern addition to it. From its stonework, hewn from local quarries, to its grassy roof, it has been designed sympathetically to its surroundings – a theme which is reflected inside in the calming colour pallet of pastel greens, blues and exposed woodwork.
Yet in its facilities, it couldn’t be more modern. Its horseshoe kitchen area brims with up-to-the minute appliances and integrated units, concealed behind the pale wood effect doors and drawers. And don’t get me started on the luxurious bathrooms, from the huge egg-shaped bath in the master en suite, to the guest bathroom’s stunning aspect onto the waterfall outside.
Just as the property is linked to the provenance of the land, so are the dining opportunities. Our first meal of the trip was provided in the cottage by local company, Ullapool Caterers. All the prepared dishes were stowed away in the fridge upon our arrival – a rich venison stew for the meat eaters, accompanied by creamy and tangy mash potatoes, and for the vegetarian among us, a delectable wild mushroom stifado.
As the sun set over the mountains, we quaffed prosecco and nibbled at locally-smoked salmon – both provided by our hosts as part of a delicious welcome package which all visitors receive – and then settled down to our home-cooked meal.
The next morning, we made the most of our kitchen, preparing a cooked breakfast while pouring over the numerous maps and excursion suggestions gathered by Gavin and Rachel. The options seemed endless, but given our short time, we selected a nearby attraction, Achiltiebuie.
The small coastal village was about an hour’s drive from Ullapool, and is just a stone’s throw from the Summer Isles archipelago. As delightful as the destination was, it was perhaps surpassed by the journey itself. As you wind your way along the softly meandering single track road, you bear witness to some of the most beautiful sights the region has to offer.
All around you lie the crystal-clear waters of Lochs Lurgainn, Osaig and Vatachan, while above tower the breathtaking peaks of Stac Pollaidh, Cul Mor, Suilven and the other equally individual features of the Assynt range. A stop at Achnahaird Beach is also highly recommendable, offering you a chance to take in the beauty of the area, from the softly lapping water of the bay, to the ochre majesty of the surrounding hills.
That evening, we walked into Ullapool itself, to sample the nightlife. While it was an uncharacteristically quiet weekend, Ullapool is known far and wide for its vibrant cultural scene. Live music gigs, theatre performances and festivals abound throughout the year, making it a focal point for artists and art-lovers alike for decades.
One particular hot spot is The Ceilidh Place on West Argyl Street, just one road up from the shore. Started by renowned Scottish actor Robert Urquhart in 1970, the wonderful hotel, restaurant, book shop and music venue has become the very heart of Ullapool’s cultural scene (visit www.theceilidhplace.com).
Alex, Wendy and I were lucky enough to be welcomed to try the much-raved-about food, and were delighted to find that the hype was well worth it. The starters were packed with flavour, from the rich and smooth smoked haddock chowder, to the zingy caramelised onion tart, with its sweet butternut and tangy Blue Murder cheese.
The mains were similarly excellent, from my succulent grilled chicken breast with forest mushroom and whisky sauce, to its deliciously bold accompaniments of sauteed potatoes and savoy cabbage packed with salty bacon lardons. Meanwhile the chickpea, wasabi and sesame burgers proved that the team know just what they’re doing with vegetarian cuisine too.
And to continue with the local theme, we washed our meals down with locally-sourced drinks – my An Teallach ale, fresh from the brewery only a few miles away, was a great match.
Fully sated, we made the 10-minute stroll back up the hill to our Treetop abode. Just time for a game of cards and a glass of wine as the lights of Ullapool and Loch Broom’s water-borne travellers twinkled below.
- A stay at Treetop House costs from £150 per night, with a minimum stay of three nights. Week long stays are £900 – £1,600 per week depending on time of year. Visit www.oneoffplaces.co.uk