Fjords, folklore and fireside food on the Discovery Route through southern Norway

Despite the low temperatures, the scarves and hats, the red noses, my memories of Norway are those of warmth.

This was evoked by the people of Norway, how welcoming they were and how proud to highlight the best of their country.

In a more literal sense, almost every place we visited had a fireplace – whether it was in the centre of a traditional open hearth house, a focal point in a design hotel or tucked in the corner of a mountain lodge.

Around these we shared stories, clinked glasses, uncovered similarities between Scotland and Norway and ate some of the best potato salad in existence.

Getting there

To get to Norway, we took advantage of Loganair‘s new direct flights between Edinburgh, Stavanger and Bergen. The journey was surprisingly less than two hours – leaving enough time for the complimentary hot drink and biscuit.

A waterfall along the Discovery Route. Image: Lauren Robertson / DC Thomson.

We headed for Stavanger to embark upon the Discovery Route, a historic tourist route stretching between Stavanger and Bergen in the south of Norway.

For the next four days we worked our way north, travelling mostly by road but also hopping on the odd ferry.

Postcard views

As cliche as it may sound, every twist and turn in the road brought a view fit for a postcard.

Cascading waterfalls and lengthy fjords which were synonymous with the country in my head were more stunning in person than I could have imagined.

None, however, could quite beat views at the top of our four-hour hike to Preikestolen, or The Pulpit Rock as it is sometimes known.

The hike to Preikestolen is well worth it for the views. Image: Lauren Robertson / DC Thomson.

The plateau sticks out over Lysefjord, a sheer drop on all sides. The fjord stretches as far as the eye can see; we were lucky for it to be sparkling in the sunshine when we were there.

All ages and abilities were enjoying the views from the top, so the walk is accessible for anyone willing to give it a good go. Those with a real fear of heights might want to tread carefully though.

Something for everyone

The beauty of following the Discovery Route is it gives you an outline to fill with whatever you want.

If that is to learn more about the country and its history, the areas around Stavanger and Bergen are packed full of culture and there is a real sense of tradition.

Lunch in a traditional settlement at Hardanger Folk Museum. Image: Lauren Robertson / DC Thomson.

We learned about national dress at Hardanger Folk Museum and even visited a traditional settlement at Agatunet. We watched craftsmen at work at the Hardanger Maritime Centre, where they are working to preserve boat-making techniques from the region.

Food and drink

If you are a foodie, or partial to a tipple or two, Norway is the place for you.

The importance of community shone in the number of times we tucked into sharing plates, everyone encouraged to interact while eating.

Midstommar Vineyard. Image: Lauren Robertson / DC Thomson.

We – thoroughly – enjoyed everything from hearty venison stews and fresh trout to a surprisingly delicious brown cheese ice cream.

One thing I did not expect to do in Norway was visit a vineyard.

Midtsommar in Suldal is a family-run vineyard located a stone’s throw from the fjord and you can go along for a guided tour and to taste their delicious wines.

Cider too is a growing industry, with each place we ate keen to show off the latest creations from local makers.

It was different to the sickly-sweet cider you often find in the UK, much lighter and more true to the taste of apple.

The week was filled with lots of delicious food. Image: Lauren Robertson / DC Thomson.

Accommodation

Working our way up through southern Norway, we sampled a variety of different styles of accommodation.

The first was Preikestolen Basecamp, which was more like a luxurious chalet than the hostel we were expecting.

Next was Energihotellet in Sudldal – a design hotel built in the Sixties by the renowned architect Geir Grung. The local family who run it are more than happy to share stories of its history.

An evening by the gold fireplace at Energihotellet. Image: Lauren Robertson / DC Thomson.

The minimalist decor – aside from the huge gold fireplace in the centre of the dining room – makes for a relaxing stay, with the view of Lake Suldalsvatnet the focal point of every room.

Our final night was spent at Hardangerfjord Hotel, marking the end of the trip with a sauna and cider tasting.