Offering history, culture and glorious sea views, Turkey’s Izmir is a city break destination bursting with potential, says Michael McHugh
Turkish flags ripple in the breeze and heads bob joyfully up and down as I make my way through the crowd that has gathered for the party-style Independence Day celebrations in the port city of Izmir.
“Soldiers” in mustard tunics goose-step, while women in purple bolero jackets and yellow pantaloons twirl to the sound of a violin-like instrument, against the backdrop of the velvet blue Mediterranean.
Every year, this fiercely patriotic city commemorates the Turkish army’s decisive entry into Izmir in 1922, heralding victory over Greece and subsequent independence.
The face of state founder Kemal Ataturk is carved into a mountainside overlooking the city. The carefully sculpted granite contours are a reminder of how influential his nationalist secular values still are today.
Izmir is a city halfway down the western coast of Turkey, and home to three million people. It’s a short distance from the Greek islands and former residents of note include the epic Greek poet, Homer.
I am reminded of the city’s Greco-Turkish heritage when I chat to Evrim Atesler, a half-Greek, half-Turkish musician with a voluminous grey beard and rotund frame, who entertains us at a poolside restaurant that night.
After a succession of traditional songs with opening riffs sounding suspiciously like the beginning of Hotel California, he performs an uninhibited spinning dance. I’m surprised he doesn’t slip on the marble floor.
His performance has its roots in thousands of years of tradition. Turkey has been dubbed the most beaten path of mankind – a reference to its millennia of civilisation – and one of the best places to illustrate this is Ephesus, an ancient site not far from Izmir.
I stumble down an uneven and pillar-lined hill in the ruined city, heading towards the skeletal remains of the once grand Roman Celsus library. Tourists pose for photos outside its beautiful two-storied stone building, which used to contain a quarter of a million books.
Ephesus was once a seat of learning, as demonstrated by its semi-circular amphitheatre, which formerly hosted philosophical discussions.
To the uninitiated though, it looks a bit like Rome’s Colosseum where gladiators once fought.
But as my guide sums up pithily: “This theatre is culture, the Colosseum in Rome was chop, chop”.
Recently, the Moscow Philharmonic Orchestra, Phil Collins and Sting have played in the Ephesian arena.
Pondering the cultural merits of Sting, I meander along a Roman-built, stone-paved, pine-fringed road. Bright orange berries hang from palm trees, branches bending slightly under the weight of bunched fruit.
Ephesus attracts millions of tourists every year. But nearby Izmir is trying to capture some of that market with its easy charms and authentic bazaar.
I squeeze my way through packed streets, past Aladdin’s Cave-style shops, and arrive at a central courtyard. I rest on a Lilliputian chair, which seems designed for a child, but apparently helps the occupant keep cool.
I cautiously sip an espresso-sized cup of frothy black Turkish coffee. This symbol of Turkish culture has been challenged by the rise of instant coffee and tea, one of several traditions slowly changing in the country.
I look up and again see the mountainside granite carving of Ataturk, guardian of Turkey’s secular past, and wonder about the future of this intriguing republic – with one face to the east and one to the west.
WHERE TO STAY
Swissotel Buyuk Efes
This 50-year-old hotel is notable for its extensive art collection. Colombian artist Fernando Botero’s 2.5m-high sculpture, Man on Horse, stands at the entrance to the hotel amid landscaped gardens.
Guests can enjoy spectacular views of the bay of Izmir from the Sky Bar, located on top of the nine-storey building. If you’re feeling decadent, try the sweet and tasty 41 euro Flames of Fig cocktail.
The Purovel Spa, meanwhile, offers excellent treatments, including the one-hour Mountain Meadow massage, using organic oils produced in Switzerland. Visit www.swissotel.com/hotels/izmir
WHERE TO SHOP
Among the more atmospheric shopping options in Izmir is the bazaar in the old town, a short distance from the quayside. Expect to find small wooden ship wheels, reflecting the city’s maritime heritage, and hand of Fatima trinkets, a symbol of protection against the “evil eye” curse.
Konak is one of the modern shopping centres in Izmir and includes a cinema, good local fashion stores and baklava shops.
WHERE TO EAT
Equinox
This restaurant at the Swissotel Buyuk Efes wins plaudits for its location alone; it’s set atop a nine-storey tower overlooking the Mediterranean. Visit www.swissotel.com
Artemis
Close to Ephesus, this is a popular haunt for tourists. Highlights include Turkish pancakes with cheese, and vegetables and meatballs, washed down with pomegranate fruit wine. Visit www.artemisrestaurant.com
TRAVEL FACTS
Rooms at Swissotel Buyuk Efes, Izmir, are priced from 99 euros per night, on a bed & breakfast basis, based on double occupancy. Visit www.swissotel.com/izmir for more information.
Flights with EasyJet are priced from £160 return from London Gatwick to Izmir, Turkey.