A room with a view makes such a difference – and we had two to admire as we spent a couple of nights relaxing in a stylish, spacious apartment in the heart of Edinburgh.
From our lofty vantage point on the sixth floor we watched the world go by, as people bustled along Queen Street below, with the Firth of Forth in the distance.
Moving out of our lounge/kitchen and into our second bedroom to the rear, we had an even better view of the Forth, and pleasant quiet gardens below.
A chaffinch and a hooded finch quenched their thirsts from rainwater gathering in rooftop gutters outside our window – it was a tranquil scene and we might have been in the countryside, rather than a major capital.
Our base was the Royal Garden apartments in York Buildings, Queen Street, part of a portfolio of residences around Edinburgh operated by the Fountain Court group.
Royal Garden offers 30 one- and two-bedroom serviced apartments, including two penthouses with balconies. We were in a two-bedroom apartment, with a separate shower and toilet, as well as an en-suite in one room. A spacious lounge, with dining table and a well-equipped kitchen, was the centrepiece and there were digital televisions in every room, along with complimentary Wi-Fi.
My wife and I enjoyed relaxing nights in front of the television after arriving back from exploring Edinburgh – with no background noise from other guests or staff to distract us.
Royal Garden occupies an imposing A-listed 19th century building, once used by the American consul general, which was already apartments before the current owners acquired it, giving the property a makeover and re-branding.
There is a striking entrance porch and foyer with stone floor, which leads to a 24-hour reception. Alas, no car park, but we managed to slip into a space in Dublin Street close by to offload our luggage and took advantage of a discount for guests at an NCP car park a short walk away. Checking in was swift and we were left to our own devices to start exploring.
Nicely-framed through the windows of our lounge was the National Portrait Gallery opposite – a red brick delight with beautiful carved figures ringing the building. Like so many attractions, it was right on our doorstep from our new base.
We had about 36 hours to look around, so we tried to cram in a lot – mainly eating and drinking, I have to admit. Even Harry’s Bar in Venice, of all things, came into the equation, but more of that later.
So, we set off on a Friday night along nearby St Andrew Street – and came upon several hundred people sitting motionless in St Andrew Square. It seemed a bit weird, as though we had blundered into a sci-fi scene.
In fact, it was film festival weekend and movie fans of all ages gathered in front of a giant outdoor screen to enjoy classics such as Raiders of the Lost Ark and Braveheart.
We soaked up the wonderful atmosphere for a while before moving onto our real destination – the Dome restaurant in George Street. It was originally a grand meeting place for Edinburgh physicians, rebuilt as a showpiece bank, but is now a temple of opulence and fine food.
Its soaring dome-shaped ceiling, stained-glass and chandeliers are a joy. It was packed, but I booked two weeks in advance. It really is a must on anyone’s itinerary.
After a peaceful uninterrupted sleep, we felt so energised the next morning that we set off with the intention of clambering into one of those tourist buses lined up opposite Waverley Station.
But that was before my wife spotted a collection of designer shops, including Harvey Nichols and Michael Kors, just off St Andrew Street, and that put paid to that.
We did have time to take in lunch at Cafe Andaluz in George Street, bringing back happy memories of Spanish holidays and tapas meals.
On our way back, we explored the exclusive Queen Street Gardens next door and the National Portrait Gallery. The gallery was a treat, but I found myself more enthralled by the architectural surroundings than the art on the walls.
We admired the famous, or infamous, Edinburgh trams gliding by between the airport and York Place, almost silent apart from their distinctive bells. I have to say, I think they are quite an attractive feature.
However, as we trudged down Princes Street for our dinner later, it didn’t dawn on us to actually get on one.
Finally, we were inside the warm embrace of Zucca Italian restaurant, which shares a corner of the Royal Lyceum Theatre in Grindlay Street, off Lothian Road, and where theatre-goers were enjoying pre-show dinners.
It was a great atmosphere and our marvellous host Giacomo made it even better, with his passion for all things food and drink.
He and chef Richard Glennie, from Aberdeen, began here eight years ago, after moving over from the Sheraton across the road.
Diners can slip through into the theatre via a linked corridor from Zucca, and its close proximity to the stage was clear to see from a sign near the toilets, “Please be quiet – show in progress”.
After being knocked out by their delicious sole Venetian-style, cooked in butter and sprinkled with pine nuts, Giacomo let us into a secret.
On a business trip to Venice, he and Richard sampled the dish in Harry’s Bar – a magnet for A-list celebrities down the years – at £40 a time. Richard was convinced he could do it cheaper, but just as good. I have never been to Harry’s Bar, but I would say he might be right.
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