I was on my own little arctic adventure, surrounded on all sides by thick snow and sharp ice crystals. As I waved frantically to the nearest human being, I wondered if they could see that my bare feet were stuck to the snow.
Fortunately, the pool lifeguard came quickly to my rescue, and said that happens a lot in the snow cabin, deep inside Galgorm Resort & Spa in Ballymena.
We were in Northern Ireland to see a brand new multi-million-pound attraction being hailed as ‘white-knuckle’ – more on that later – but first I want to rave about Galgorm, voted Ireland’s 2015 Spa of the Year in the Tatler awards.
Only 30 minutes from Belfast City airport, the estate is set in 163 acres of woodland with the spectacular River Maine flowing through it.
Hollywood star Liam Neeson allegedly tried to book the entire resort for his family, so I’m told, but the hotel said no, for they can do up to four weddings a day here – yes, four weddings a day – and I could see why. The entire place, from the room suites and restaurants to the thermal village spa, is utterly luxurious, oozing with five-star class.
Everywhere you step (in your fluffy white robe and slippers) feels brand new, from the snow cabin and stone paths along the riverside, through the plush carpeted hallways and drawing rooms, to the beautiful breakfast room and restaurants – which serve fantastic food, morning to night. It’s so rare to find a hotel that does the entire package, and at such high quality.
We landed our cool helicopter near the front doors, alongside two gleaming Rolls-Royce wedding cars. Well, I can but dream….
The thermal village spa, spread outdoors alongside the thundering river, is where newlyweds toast their big day. If bathing under a starry sky is your thing, wood-fired eco-friendly riverside hot-tubs are perfect for relaxing à deux, with champagne and nibbles.
An ice fountain awakens the senses while a funky ‘snail’ shower beside the indoor pool emulates a tropical rain shower, complete with thunder and lightning. This pool is also for children, while the outside areas are for dressing-gown-clad adults to relax, with infinity hydrotherapy pools to ease away tensions and heated wooden cabins provide varying degrees of heat and humidity.
Ireland’s first ‘Snow Paradise’ is a -15C cabin completely covered in snow and ice. Developed by German Spa specialists Klaffs, it’s a unique Finnish experience, designed to cool the body between sessions in the sauna. The sudden and extreme change in temperatures stimulates body circulation and is highly beneficial to the immune system.
If you can bare to leave the thermal village spa – and I don’t think you will – Galgorm is in a great location from which to explore the North Antrim Coast.
Our next stop was The Gobbins, being billed as a dramatic coastal walk. The visitor attraction first opened to the public in 1902, and £7.5million and 113 years later, it has been rebuilt. It’s now a reimagined path just short of three miles long, with spectacular bridges, tunnels and staircases clinging to sheer basalt cliffs.
The path was originally built as a tourist attraction by Berkeley Deane Wise, an Irish railway engineer. It fell into decline during the war, and closed in the 1950s.
But today, engineers have cleverly rebuilt all the bridges and staircases, and the public can now book a three-hour fully escorted tour, starting from the visitor centre, then by bus to The Gobbins – which takes its name from the Irish ‘An Gobain’, meaning ‘the points of rock’.
To reach the path, visitors duck down through a narrow entrance called Wise’s Eye. Safety is paramount, and children under four feet are not allowed, nor is anyone who’s recently had heart surgery, as it’s a steep climb, with some uneven paths and narrow caves.
The safety briefing is thorough, and ensures nobody unsuitable is permitted, and everyone is properly equipped with walking shoes and safety helmets. The path runs at a height of 15 metres above water level in places, so you may get showered by waves.
Care has been taken to ensure The Gobbins does not impact on nature, so it stops short of where puffins come to lay their eggs on the high cliff edges.
Rich fishing makes it a magnet for many kinds of birds (hence the helmets) – guillemots and razorbills crowd the cliffs during breeding season, and cormorants are a striking sight as they dive deep for fish.
The Gobbins has a fascinating history which is told better by a tour guide, so I won’t spoil it for you, but in the meantime, look up www.thegobbinscliffpath.com. It’s worth booking ahead, as high visitor numbers from around the world are expected, and online booking should be available soon.
It wasn’t exactly what I would call ‘white knuckle’ if I’m honest, but a day skiing at Glenshee or a walk to the top of Bennachie might be comparable in terms of exhilaration. Maybe if it was dark, and wind and waves had been pounding…
Our group included tourists from Canada and New Zealand, and they felt it was definitely worth doing – they were also happy to discover that the hit TV show Game of Thrones was filmed in the vicinity.
Just a 40-minute drive from Belfast, The Gobbins coastal path lies at the beginning of the world-famous Causeway Coastal Route, which stretches for 120 miles from Belfast Lough to Lough Foyle, linking pretty coastal villages and allowing visitors to travel inland and explore the famous Glens of Antrim.
FINN McCOOL
Attractions include Carrickfergus Castle, the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, Dunluce Castle, Old Bushmills Distillery, and Giant’s Causeway, Ireland’s first World Heritage Site.
Steeped in myth and legend, Giant’s Causeway was formed more than 60million years ago, when molten lava cooled suddenly on contact with water. Carved from the coast, allegedly by the mighty giant Finn McCool, it’s an awe-inspiring landscape of mostly hexagonal basalt columns. Weathered formations created these circular structures round a core of basalt, known locally as ‘giant’s eyes’. Other formations have names such as the Chimney Stacks, the Harp, the Organ, the Wishing Chair and the Camel’s Hump.
Locals believe there’s real magic between the hexagons, the mythical features carved out in the rocks and the tumbling sea. There’s certainly plenty of magic to be found on a trip to Northern Ireland, and no doubt we’ll be back again soon, but next up for us is ski-ing in the French Alps at Christmas. I can’t wait to feel snow on my feet again!
WHERE TO STAY
- Galgorm Resort & Spa, 136 Fenaghy Road, Ballymena, Co. Antrim. Phone: +44 (0)28 2588 1001. Galgorm
- 1 NIGHT FESTIVE FAVOURITE – An overnight stay in a Superior guest room; Use of the Thermal Village; 3 course evening meal with a bottle of house wine in one of our restaurants; Hot chocolate and mince pies at turndown; Full Irish Breakfast the following morning. Prices from £89 per person, based on 2 people sharing. Valid Monday to Thursday during December.
- 1 NIGHT LUXURY EXPERIENCE – Start the new year off with a short break. Enjoy an overnight stay in a Standard guest room; Use of the Thermal Village; Full Irish Breakfast the following morning. Prices from £65 per person, based on 2 people sharing. Valid Monday to Thursday during January & February 2016 (excludes February 12-14).
- The Gobbins Visitor Centre, Middle Road, Islandmagee, Co. Antrim. Phone +44 (0) 28 9337 2318 The Gobbins
- Giant’s Causeway, 44 Causeway Road, Bushmills, County Antrim. Phone 028 2073 1855.
- Causeway Coastal Route: www.discovernorthernireland.com/causeway/
- For further information on Northern Ireland go to: www.discovernortherireland.com and Ireland
- Regular Flybe flights go between Aberdeen and Belfast City in under an hour.
- Dan Dooley is the place to hire a car. www.dan-dooley.ie
WHERE TO EAT
- Harry’s Shack; a shack on the beach serving up catch of the day, home grown vegetables, tasty breads cakes & desserts. 116 Strand Rd, Portstewart. www.facebook.com/HarrysShack
- Mortons, Fish & Chip Shop, 9 Bayview Road, Ballycastle.
- Babushka Cafe, S Pier, Portrush. www.babushkakitchencafe.com