Ahead of the Fort William Mountain Festival, which runs from February 16 to 19, Gayle enjoys a ‘winter mindfulness’ wander in the shadow of Ben Nevis.
Mention Ben Nevis – the UK’s highest mountain – and many think only of reaching the summit, taking a heap of selfies and adding it to their list of ‘conquered’ Munros.
However, if you want to appreciate the true character of the iconic peak, you’d do well to walk up towards the North Face.
I’m pondering this thought as I gaze up to the imposing cliffs and mighty precipices beneath the mountain, and pause to listen to the rush of water from the cascading burn.
The plan today is not to ‘conquer’ anything. Rather, I’m on a “winter mindfulness” walk with Anna Danby of Wild Roots Highland Guiding.
Anna, who’s coordinator for the upcoming Fort William Mountain Festival (and will offer a similar walk in tandem with George Bauer during the event), tells me the focus is on connecting with the land and enjoying moments of stillness.
Moments of stillness
“It’s about getting people to engage with the landscape, rather than always rushing to the top of mountains with blinkers on,” she explains.
“It’s easy to miss out on what’s right in front of you – colours and contrasts of trees and plants, shades and textures of stones and rocks. Sounds, sights and smells, too.”
Anna, who was the learning manager at Edinburgh’s Dynamic Earth before she relocated to Lochaber to set up her business three years ago, is keen to get me using all my senses to experience everything around us and to become hyper-aware.
As we stroll along a woodland path, we pause while she reads a poem by Irish poet and philosopher John O’ Donohue – To Learn From Animal Being.
It tells of how we should learn to “slip frequently” into the “feel of the wild”, and how we “manage seldom to be where we are”. It’s beautiful.
“There’s power in actively connecting with landscapes, and spending more time in tune with ourselves,” muses Anna.
“It’s about noticing what’s around us and not letting busy minds get in the way.”
Evolution of the landscape
With her background in teaching, nature education and science, Anna is well placed to share her insights on the evolution of the landscape.
We stop at a bench, with cracking views of Loch Linnhe and Eil, the wind whistling round us, while she talks about the natural and human history of the area.
“Everything starts with geology,” she says. “The rocks beneath our feet determine all we see.
“They affect what soil there is, what plants grow, the shape of mountains and therefore how people use them – where we build our cities or where we choose to go climbing.”
She brings out a series of pictures which show how the land has evolved. Memories of Higher geography are flooding back!
“The key thing here is what happened about 430 million years ago – these continents collided, created a huge mountain chain and formed the Highlands.
“They would’ve been Himalayan in proportion, so what we see today is just a small bit left.
“If you look at rocks, especially in Glen Nevis, you’ll see they have beautiful squiggles and curves, and that’s because rocks that were made from sediments being laid on the bottom of the sea then got crumpled up and squished as they were built into mountains.”
Volcanic activity
So why is Ben Nevis different? “It was volcanic,” says Anna.
“Towards the end of this continental movement, there was huge amounts of heat and pressure with rocks being melted.
“Then there was a period of intense volcanism. Ben Nevis is a product of that.”
Jaw-dropping spectacle
I’d never approached the mountain from this angle, but wow – the North Face really is something special.
The views are jaw-dropping, awe-inspiring, mind-blowing… all the adjectives you could dream of.
Steep jagged cliffs, scree-covered slopes, a towering expanse of granite: you need to see it to believe it.
A wild wind whips round us as we look up the glen, with a flurry of hailstones to boot.
Because I’m recovering from an ankle injury, we opt to turn back.
Had we continued, we’d have completed a 10k circuit, passing the Charles Inglis Clark memorial hut, a private shelter for mountaineers, returning via rough moorland.
Anyone can sign up for this walk on February 18. The cost of £10 per person will be donated to the Nevis Landscape Partnership.
Adventure galore
Meanwhile, the festival’s accompanying Fringe Events programme features stand-up paddle-boarding, climbing masterclasses, guided social runs, navigation skills sessions, creative writing and landscape drawing classes, wild swimming, yoga and much more.
It also includes inspirational speakers, films, competitions and awards, and an interactive, adventure-themed exhibition.
History
The festival was established in 2004 by a group of passionate locals, inspired by the wild landscapes of Lochaber and beyond.
Its aim is to bring people from all walks of life together to share their adventure stories and expertise.
Glen Nevis Youth Hostel
Wondering where to stay during the festival?
Glen Nevis Youth Hostel, conveniently situated at the foot of Ben Nevis and just a couple of miles from Fort William, offers affordable, comfortable and cosy accommodation, with private en-suite rooms, shared dorms, a self-catering kitchen and bar, and the option to pay for a continental breakfast.
I was up in the area for a couple of days so booked myself into a private room and whizzed up a storm in the kitchen before chilling out with a glass of wine in the open-plan living area while savouring the spectacular mountain views.
I also found the wet room facilities to be brilliant. My jacket, gloves and trousers were pretty soaked after my walk with Anna – and I’d also had a wee explore around Gairlochy in heavy rain.
The Outdoor Capital of the UK
Lochaber bills itself as The Outdoor Capital of the UK (OCUK) and, true to its word, it’s a dream destination for outdoors lovers, with majestic mountains and glens and a huge variety of activity providers.
Mark Gibbings, commercial manager at Lochaber Chamber of Commerce, which looks after OCUK and sponsors the Mountain Festival, says: “Running across almost two decades, the festival is the annual celebration of the outdoors, pursuits, stories, landscapes and importantly the people and personalities and that make outdoor adventure so fascinating.
“It gives you a connection to the outdoors and a share of the passion that makes mountain adventure so thrilling.
“Highlights include the family film night, bike night, and ‘Tales from the Trails’, a unique celebration of the world-famous long-distance trails that start and end in Fort William, with a superb line-up of speakers.”
- For more information, see mountainfestival.co.uk; outdoorcapital.co.uk; wildrootsguiding.scot, and hostellingscotland.org.uk
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