Featured in their November 2024 issue, The Scots Magazine Editor, Robert Wight, pens the first entry in a superb new hillwalking series, taking on a challenging Glen Coe Munro.
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One of two Munros and four summits on the infamous Aonach Eagach, Meall Dearg offers one of the most thrilling ascents for hillwalkers in Scotland.
Top facts about Meall Dearg
Pronunciation: Me-yal Ger-ag
Meaning: red hill (notched ridge)
Height: 953m (3127ft)
Rank: 202
OS Landranger Map 41
Summit grid ref: NN161584
The Aonach Eagach is the saw-toothed ridge that bites savagely into the sky atop the massive wall of rock guarding the northern side of Glen Coe.
Meall Dearg sits at the heart of the ridge. The most common way of reaching it is from the east, after some exciting, exposed and challenging scrambling.
Continuing west after the peak presents further scrambling – only this time more exciting, more exposed and more challenging. It’s one of the finest mountain outings in all Scotland, certainly on the mainland.
Meall Dearg can also be climbed from the north, a route devoid of any scrambling difficulties – but where’s the fun in that? It was via that route, however, that the first person to “compleat” the Munros, the Reverend A. E. Robertson, climbed what was the final hill of his round in 1901. Famously, on reaching the summit, the reverend kissed first the cairn and then his wife.
Much has been written of how difficult and terrifying the traverse of the Aonach Eagach is. It’s a subjective thing and, personally, I think the hype’s a bit overdone.
It’s a solid Grade 2 scramble, with excellent holds – it’s like the rock was made for climbing – and in good conditions, competent, experienced scramblers will have a wonderful day.
Equally, I’ve seen those who dislike heights reduced to trembling wrecks – which begs the question, if you don’t like scrambling or heights, why would you put yourself through that?
What makes Aonach Eagach a serious proposition is the exposure and commitment it demands. On the scrambling sections, there is no safe means of bypass or escape – you either go forward or back.
There are considerable drops and sections where mistakes would be costly – indeed, there have been fatalities over the years. Some parties will use ropes, probably more to inspire confidence than out of any real need.
In poor weather, with wet rock and anything above a stiff breeze, the traverse isn’t so much fun and is best avoided.
I’ve climbed it many times, in a variety of conditions. In winter it’s a graded route (2/3) and depending on conditions can be a marvellous alpine-style ascent or a treacherous nightmare.
My toughest traverse of the route was one February, when several inches of heavy, wet, fresh snow lay on iced-up rock. I love this route – but I can’t honestly say that was a fun day.
Recommended Route
Start grid ref: NN174567
Distance: 9km (5.6 miles)
Ascent: 1,200m (3,937ft)
Time: 6 hours
The Route
This could be the easiest route description ever – climb to the ridge and follow it.
There’s really nowhere else to go! Most people traverse east to west – perhaps one of the reasons being that this saves 150m (492ft) of ascent. There’s parking for several vehicles on the north side of the A82 a few hundred metres west of Allt-na-reigh.
If this is full – and in good weather, unless you’re very early, it likely will be – then there’s a much larger car park a couple of hundred metres west on the opposite side of the road.
It’s an idea to leave a second car where you’ll descend from the ridge, between the Clachaig Inn and Glencoe village. Otherwise it’s a long 7km (4.4 mile) walk back to the start. Hitching’s an option, but not everyone will stop for a bunch of smelly climbers.
A clear path – well maintained in sections – leads directly and steeply to Am Bodach, the ridge’s most easterly summit. Beyond, you must down-climb to reach the ridge proper.
It’s a drop of about 20m (66ft) – it’s the route’s first challenge and a taste of what the rest of the day will bring. Some parties will rope-up here, and it can appear a bit intimidating at first, but all the holds are there. It’s best taken facing in.
Did You Know? It was in the Clachaig Inn, at the western end of Aonach Eagach, that Glencoe Mountain Rescue was formed in 1962 following a meeting chaired by famous climber Hamish MacInnes.
The ridge, narrow in places and with minor scrambling in others, takes you to the central peak, the Munro Meall Dearg. The twisting, spire-filled ridge looks incredible from here – and it’s now the real fun begins!
The Grade 2 scrambling isn’t difficult, but it is exposed in places and feels serious, especially over the “Crazy Pinnacles” – towers of rock that must be traversed. My best advice is to stick to the crest of the ridge and take everything head-on – it’s easier than it looks.
All too soon the excitement is over and there’s a long, gradual pull to Sgorr nam Fiannaidh, another Munro.
By far the easiest descent is to continue along the ridge, before descending north-west to the bealach with Sgorr na Ciche (the Pap of Glencoe). A clear path, muddy and eroded in places, leads down to the road.
Nearest Town
Glencoe is about 8km (5 miles) west. Although a small village it has great facilities. Accommodation options include hotels, B&Bs, caravan and campsites and a youth hostel.
Places to eat and drink include the Clachaig Inn, near the end of this route.
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This article first appeared in the November 2024 issue of The Scots Magazine.