Fresh snow blankets the mountain path that heads up into the corrie beneath the magnificent North Face of Ben Nevis.
The views up to its cliffs, buttresses and gullies, are a combination of jaw-dropping, fearsome and awe-inspiring.
I’m hiking up to the legendary CIC hut – a private, locked shelter for mountaineers – with walking and running guide Hannah Godden.
Hannah works for Girls on Hills, the UK’s only guided trail, fell and ‘skyrunning’ company, which is aimed specifically at women.
The company also offers navigation, mountain safety and hillwalking courses.
Hannah’s original suggestion was to run up to the hut, but having just endured a hideous, energy-zapping virus, I asked if we could (please) just walk.
How far is the hut?
It’s a good three-and-a-half miles up to the hut, and it’s fairly steep in places.
Burns and streams, usually visible, are covered in snow, and there are a few occasions when we find ourselves ankle-deep in water.
It’s a calm, clear day, and I’m so happy just to be here, in what feels like the heart of the wilderness.
Hannah tells me the walk is a taster for events Girls on Hills will run during the upcoming Fort William Mountain Festival.
Winter skills and safety
As we walk, we chat about everything from winter safety to weather and avalanche awareness, navigation skills, plus route and equipment choice.
It takes us just under two hours to reach the stunningly situated CIC hut.
We’d have been quicker if I hadn’t stopped to take photos every five minutes.
What’s the story behind the CIC hut?
So why is it called the CIC hut? There’s quite a poignant story.
Essentially, the hut was erected in 1928/9 by Dr and Mrs Inglis Clark in memory of their son, Charles Inglis Clark (CIC).
A keen mountaineer, he was killed in action during the First World War.
The site chosen for the hut was in the basin, or corrie – Coire Leis – at the head of the Allt a’Mhuilinn burn.
At more than 2,000ft above sea level, it’s a cold, isolated spot.
But there’s no denying it commands striking views of various rocky climbs where the young Charles had often adventured.
Before the memorial hut was built, there was no shelter for climbers in an emergency, and many died of exposure following accidents.
As a wild wind whips up and snow starts to fall, I’m very glad to reach it.
And thankfully Hannah has a key, so we can get inside for some respite.
Inside the CIC hut
It’s fantastic to get in from the chill, although it’s immediately obvious that people can’t be too far away.
Sleeping bags, a bottle of whisky, an open pack of cards laid out on the huge trestle table, and the waft of cooking are evidence.
I’ve brought lunch, but Hannah boils the kettle and warms us up with steaming mugs of tea.
As we’re drinking, the door opens. In come three friendly young guys.
They explain they’ve booked the hut for five nights to tackle various gullies and crags, including the iconic Tower Ridge.
Dusk is falling as we make our way back down, having popped on microspikes – light winter traction spikes that hug your shoes or boots.
Or perhaps they might be described as a less extreme version of crampons.
They’re brilliant: they make navigating icy patches much easier, although you still need to keep your wits about you.
It’s a quick return walk back to the North Face car park, and we use head torches for the last mile or so.
Why sign up for Girls on Hills course?
I highly recommend signing up for a course with Girls on Hills – and there are two being hosted during the festival.
One is a day-long guided trail running adventure on February 15 exploring rugged trails around Lochaber – wearing microspikes if the terrain requires.
“We’ll embrace the winter weather and celebrate afterwards in the warmth of a cafe, with tea and cake!” says Hannah.
“The exact route will be confirmed on the day, as real-time snow and ice conditions play a central role in route planning at this time of year.
“But wherever we go, we’ll run a variety of terrain and gradients over around 12 to 15km, with an ascent of 300 to 800m in total.”
You don’t need to be a fast runner to come along. As Hannah says: “You just need to keep plodding with determination!”
The other Girls on Hills event is a two-day winter skills course on February 15 and 16.
This covers techniques for moving safely in snow and ice – including using ice axes, crampons, and ‘kicking steps’.
Some of the course will be taught ‘above the snow line’ with a trip on the gondola at Nevis Range or the chairlift at Glencoe Mountain.
What else is on at Fort William Mountain Festival?
There are so many festival events on offer – from trail running and winter climbing, to illustration, nature writing, yoga, skiing, and wild swimming.
And after a day outdoors, you can relax during an inspiring talk or adventure film screening – there’s even a ceilidh to round things off.
But an event that really appeals to me is the Winter Foraging Workshop run by Lucy Cooke, aka The Wild Cooke, on February 14.
This introduces you to the world of wild foods – and after a wander looking for the ‘best of winter edibles’, you enjoy a hot drink and cake.
I was lucky to catch up with Lucy for a taster session – we had fun drinking pine needle tea.
I plan to write about her exploits in a few weeks, so stay tuned!
- Gayle stayed overnight at Glen Nevis Youth Hostel. The cosy, dog-friendly hostel offers a range of private en-suite rooms and shared dorms. Facilities include an open-plan living area with log-burning stove and panoramic mountain views, self-catering kitchen, decking area, drying room, laundry and bike store. You can order a continental breakfast, plus snacks and drinks are available at reception. In essence, it’s a great, affordable accommodation option at the foot of Ben Nevis.
- Check out mountainfestival.co.uk/ for full details of events.
Conversation