Nestled beneath dramatic mountains, on the shores of Loch Torridon, is the open-air church of Am Ploc.
Stone seats are laid out in rows, and a cleft in a rock face forms a natural platform, or pulpit.
The outdoor preaching place was one of several set up in the north-west Highlands following the so-called Disruption of 1843.
This was when the Church of Scotland split over the rights of parishioners, rather than landowners, to choose their ministers.
The deep divide led to the creation of the Free Church of Scotland.
But as land owners refused to give up property for the new church buildings, alternative homes were sought.
And so at Torridon, this natural amphitheatre on the small promontory at the head of the sea loch was seized upon.
Although the Free Church was able to raise funds for a church in the village, the open-air church remained in use until the 1980s.
Recently, it’s become a spot for gatherings, and even weddings.
Great wee walk to Am Ploc
During a recent trip to Torridon with friends, we spent the first evening stretching our legs with a short walk of less than four miles.
It was on this walk that we came across Am Ploc, and while Colin and Brian had been there many times before, it was a fantastic surprise for me.
We started off from the (closed) NTS countryside centre, on the outskirts of Torridon village, and headed along a tarred track.
It wasn’t long before we passed a whitewashed cottage, and, after spotting a couple of Highland ponies happily grazing in a field, we reached a deer farm.
It was fantastic to see some stags and hinds at fairly close range through the fencing.
Area rich in history and wildlife
However if you fancy a wee detour, there’s a path at the far corner of the deer paddock which turns left along the fence to reach a wildlife hide.
Dusk was falling, so we didn’t do this, but I’m told the hide overlooks a quaggy area at the head of the loch.
And this is a great spot to see birds like ringed plovers, oystercatchers and sandpipers.
The track we followed led us down towards the shore, and ran between the paddocks below the village and the loch.
Before long, we found ourselves on a lovely grassy path close to the beach. It was muddy in patches, so I was glad I’d worn my robust walking shoes.
After we had crossed a wee bridge and gone through a gate, we came to a signpost indicating the way to Am Ploc – the open-air church.
Passing the ruins of a house, with its stone lintel still intact, I felt my excitement levels rise.
Had there been no signpost, I doubt I’d have ever found this magical place on my own.
Open-air church takes your breath away
My jaw dropped as we wound our way round into the body of the kirk. Just wow!
A massive standing stone acts as the entrance, and the church is enclosed by a sturdy looking dry stane dyke.
With its rows of low stone seats, all facing a natural rock pillar, known as the ‘pulpit rock’, and the hypnotic sound of waves lapping on the shore, Am Ploc is pretty special.
It’s easy to see why the people of Torridon chose this stunning, magical site.
They were said to have arranged the stones into pews, and erected some sort of sail, or canvas, to give them shelter in adverse weather.
People came from miles around to gather among the rocks for Sunday sermons.
Occasional services were held here as recently as the 1980s – and weddings are sometimes held here today.
I stood for a while, imagining people flocking here to worship, and listening to the minister as he preached from his rather precarious looking spot.
Be careful if you climb pulpit
Of course, I couldn’t resist climbing up there – and my goodness, the views. The views!
Spurred on by my companions, I had a bash at ‘preaching’ from the pulpit.
Hopefully this wasn’t deemed disrespectful, but I’m pretty sure I’m not the first to do it.
It’s such a glorious, tranquil spot: I was reluctant to leave.
Where next?
Retracing our steps back to the track, there were two options – turn right, or turn left.
We turned right to follow the track to reach the main road at Fasag, and then walked back through the village to make a circular back to the countryside centre.
Torridon is an enchanting wee village, overlooked by the towering Munro of Liathach, and boasting a series of traditional crofts and whitewashed cottages, plus a school, village hall and youth hostel.
Chance to explore old township
What’s more, had we turned left, and headed towards the jetty, we could have visited the tumbledown ruins of the old township of Fasag.
This once comprised of 19 roofed buildings, including an inn, a smithy, a school and post office, and a few unroofed buildings.
Fasag Cottage (now called Fasaig Cottage) survives to this day – having undergone an extensive refurbishment – and is rented out as self-catering accommodation.
Ultimately, Torridon is a fabulous village rich in history, and it’s the ideal place for a wee wander.
It’s slap bang in one of the most scenic parts of the Highlands, and you don’t need to scale the heady heights of any Munros to drink in the beauty.
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