I’m currently sitting in a 29-seater British Aerospace Jetstream 41 aircraft en route to Aberdeen, looking at the geography far below. The sun is hitting the meandering lakes and rivers in such a dramatic way that they look like veins of mercury, snaking their way across the emerald fields.
Such romantic description may be due to the complimentary gin and tonic I’m sipping on, but it’s more likely down to my feeling of contentment following a delightful weekend jaunt to Leeds.
My first-ever trip to the West Yorkshire city kicked off after work on Friday when I was treated to a flight to Leeds Bradford International airport via Eastern Airways’ service.
Having never flown with the airline before, there were plenty of surprises in store, from the dedicated waiting lounge for passengers (handily close to the wing of the terminal where all Eastern Airways flights depart from), friendly air stewardess – “can I hang your jacket up, sir?” “no thank you, but it’s lovely to be asked!” – hot towel and complimentary drink. I definitely could get used to that.
I hopped off the brief flight, straight into a taxi, and was in the heart of Leeds in 20 minutes.
Now, I’m slightly ashamed to say Leeds has never featured in my list of UK weekend-break destinations, despite the fact that it’s actually the third-largest city in the UK.
It is enjoying massive regeneration at the moment, marking Leeds as one of the most vibrant areas in the country. New buildings, festivals and enterprises are popping up all over the place, alongside initiatives to modernise well-established attractions.
My aim for the two-night stay was to make up for lost time and experience what Leeds has to offer.
My base of operations was The New Ellington Hotel on York Place, an attractive hotspot located within feet of the city centre, and surrounded by handsome Georgian red brick offices, cafes and bars.
My large boutique room on the third floor was a great-looking space, sporting tasteful wood panelling, large framed mirrors, a mini balcony and sizeable bathroom.
From there, I grabbed the lift to the ground floor atrium for a pre-dinner drink in the Gin Garden which offers – you guessed it – an astonishing selection of gins from across the globe. I settled for the Tanqueray Rangpur which came adorned with fragrant Kaffir Lime leaves.
After selecting my meal for the evening, I was led downstairs to Digby’s Restaurant. The sophisticated Art Deco design is very effective, giving the space a feel of elegance which prepares you for the beautifully crafted culinary treats.
YE OLDE SMOKING PIG
For starter, I chose Ye Olde Smoking Pig, a trio of pork-based delicacies, comprising cuts of meat from nose to tail, served with tobacco apples, ale-pickled onions and brought to the table under a glass bell jar filled with smoke. A dramatic and beautifully arranged starter.
This was followed by a succulent 8oz rump steak, cooked medium rare with bearnaise sauce and hand-cooked chips on the side, and finished with sticky toffee pudding with caramelised banana.
And to drink? A subtle and smooth bottle of Domaine Sainte-Anne Languedoc white.
The next morning, I made my way back to Digby’s, with my room-delivered newspaper under my arm, for a breakfast of scrambled egg and smoked salmon on a toasted bagel. A decadent start to a day exploring Leeds.
I decided to take in a mixture of the old and new, beginning with a trip to Leeds Art Gallery which plays home to a fine array of 20th-century British pieces and has plenty to offer both casual and dedicated art lovers.
Particular highlights for me were the 1980s exhibit, including Susan Hiller’s collection of Postman Park plaques commemorating heroic deeds of ordinary people, and Atkinson Grimshaw’s Iris down in the 1800-1900s collection – its colours still iridescent despite having been painted almost 130 years ago.
A coffee in the gallery’s Victorian tiled hall cafe provided a welcome oasis before I was thrust into Leeds’ newest retail experience – the Trinity Leeds shopping centre which opened in March.
An incredible network of intersecting walkways constructed beneath a glass roof reminiscent of the British Museum, the one million square foot centre is home to everything from an Apple store, to restaurants for every taste, and the top floor exclusive cocktail bar Angelica.
VICTORIAN QUARTER
It is situated right on the doorstep of Leeds’ exclusive Victorian quarter with its upmarket shopping arcades, including designers from Vivienne Westwood to Luis Vuitton.
With a combined retail offering like this, it’s easy to see why Leeds is known as the “Knightsbridge of the north”.
The city is also where the first-ever pieces of film were shot, which is a handy segway to my next experience.
The Everyman cinema, in the upper level of Trinity Leeds, offers a relaxed atmosphere to take in the latest movie releases. A combination of pizzeria, bar, private event space and boutique cinema, the Everyman is great fun, especially when getting your own sofa in one of the three screens’ galleries. Surely there is no better way to watch a movie than on your own sofa, beer in one hand and pizza in the other?
After the movie, I went for a drink at Angelica. The sixth-floor penthouse bar and restaurant is a sight to behold. Aside from the elegant design of the bar, the views across the city are stunning and can be enjoyed from inside or outside on the wraparound terrace.
The highly professional staff were straight on the case, leading me to my table and helping me peruse the many classic and house-special cocktails. I figured there was no better place to experience my very first dirty martini and it certainly didn’t disappoint. Sharing the rooftop views with Leeds’ glitterati as the sun went down, I felt a million dollars.
The next day was a chilled-out affair, with a look around the Leeds museum, a coffee in the Victorian quarter and back to the Everyman to sun myself on the cinema’s outdoor terrace. But rest assured, if you want to pack your Leeds experience to the gunnels, there is plenty to do for every moment of your stay.
BUSINESS LOUNGE
Then it was back to the airport where I was given access to the excellent premiere business lounge, and on to my short hop back to Aberdeen where you find me now. I’ve just been asked to put my computer away as we’re about to land in 10 minutes.
We’re approaching from the sea and the sun’s light is hitting the water, spreading out like a golden blanket. Now that you’ve read my Leeds experience, can you see why I’m in such a great state of mind?
Eastern Airways operates a choice of daily flights each weekday from Aberdeen to Leeds Bradford, along with a Sunday service. Leeds Bradford Airport is just a 20-minute drive from Leeds city centre. Fares to Leeds Bradford start from £231 return, including taxes and charges, and can be booked via the website www.easternairways.com The UK regional airline also flies to nine other UK destinations from Aberdeen. A two-night weekend stay at The New Ellington Hotel costs from £199 for two people in a king double room and includes VAT, breakfast and Wi-Fi in the total. A classic cocktail at Angelicas costs from £9. A three-course evening meal at Digby’s Restaurant costs from £30 per person approximately. Movie tickets for the Everyman Cinema, seated in a one, two or three-seater sofa, cost from £9 off peak and £11 peak (after 5pm), and for 3D showings £11 off peak and £13 peak.