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THERE’S NO PLACE LIKE ROME

THERE’S NO PLACE LIKE ROME

As we stepped off the plane at the busy Rome Fiumicino Airport, I felt some trepidation at what we might find in the city, this being our first visit.

Would there be much of the ancient Roman world left to see, or would modern buildings dominate the skyline of Rome?

These questions were quickly answered by a world of ancient ruins, stunning architecture and museums and galleries with world-renowned paintings and sculptures.

For our three-night break, we stayed at a hotel some 20 minutes’ walk from the Colosseum.

Rome is a relatively compact city and the sights are walkable, although bus, tram and underground services can provide some respite for weary legs, provided they are not on strike which seems to happen quite frequently. Driving a car is not a sensible option in central Rome.

Our initial action was to take a city bus tour which proved to be a good way of finding our bearings and allowing my wife and I to plan our visits to specific attractions because of our tight schedule.

Top of our list was the Vatican, and justifiably so. The Vatican Museums introduced us to the works of masters such as Michelangelo, Botticelli, Raphael and others whose names, for many, don’t hold any great significance until one is able to gaze in wonder at their paintings, sculptures and other masterpieces created centuries ago.

Walking into the Sistine Chapel and being assailed by Michelangelo’s frescoes proved breath-taking, particularly in the knowledge that he didn’t really enjoy painting. It was well worth the 16euro entry fee.

Michelangelo’s work is also evident next door in the massive and awesome St Peter’s Basilica in the shape of the marble sculpture ‘Pieta’, depicting the body of Jesus and his mother Mary. He finished the sculpture in 1499 when only 25.

The Basilica is the largest church in Christendom hosting 45 altars and 11 chapels which display many priceless art treasures. The spectacular St Peter’s Square outside was designed by artist and architect Bernini, and is the venue for the Pope’s general audience on a Wednesday, attracting people from all over the world.

Not far from the Vatican and overlooking the River Tiber is the Castel Sant’Angelo built by Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself and his family. Later developments saw it becoming a fortress; providing a sanctuary for the Popes through a passageway from the Vatican; and a prison from which ‘Tosca’ jumped to her death.

Our day continued with a trek through the busy back streets, past cafes and restaurants crammed with visitors, at times glimpsing magnificent buildings like the Victor Emmanuel Monument, Pantheon and famous Trevi Fountain, which was mobbed with tourists jostling to throw a coin in, said to guarantee the visitor’s return to Rome. Popular films have a lot to answer for.

Our movie theme continued as we came upon the Spanish Steps immortalised by Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday.

Sightseeing in the warm sunshine can be tiring and after pounding the pavements for eight hours, a pleasant Italian meal at a restaurant near our hotel fitted the bill. We found the comprehensive menus had something for everyone, although it’s hard to beat pizzas and pastas produced by Italian chefs washed down with some seriously good Tuscan wine.

At all times we took a sensible approach to our personal safety and we felt quite safe wandering along the leafy streets in the darkness, although it is generally accepted that pickpockets target Rome’s underground on a regular basis.

As our second full day dawned, we had one thought on our minds Рthe Colosseum. This iconic structure is symbolic of the Roman civilisation and its imposing fa̤ade draws hundreds of visitors.

A combined ticket for the Colosseum, Palatine and Forum is the cheapest option, although those under 18 and over 65 can get free entry on production of a passport photocopy.

The Colosseum, the largest amphitheatre in the world, is an awesome sight, with capacity for some 50,000 spectators in what would have been ancient Rome’s primary ‘entertainment’ venue.

Our audio-guides conjured up graphic accounts of gladiatorial contests, animal fights, mock sea battles and other blood-curling events.

There is a lift which allows disabled and elderly people to access the upper floor, otherwise the steep steps would prove restrictive. It’s a busy venue and early or late visits are probably best.

Just next door we found the entrance to the Palatine Hill, one of the Seven Hills of Rome which lie east of the River Tiber, and form the geographical heart of the city. The Palatine has mythical links to Romulus and Remus who are credited with founding the city and the area is dominated by the ruins of the Domus Augustana and Domus Flavia, part of the vast palatial complex built by Emperor Domitian.

At the foot of the hill is the Forum, which served as the political, judicial and commercial hub. We were surprised by the extent of the site and the numbers of recognisable buildings which still exist.

As we walked back to the hotel, we felt an air of disappointment. Not about fascinating Rome but by the fact that there was still much more to see and do and we had run out of time.

Book Aberdeen-Gatwick-Rome flights at www.easyjet.com, or Aberdeen-Heathrow-Rome at www.britishairways.com