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CAPE HORN A SAFE HAVEN

CAPE HORN A SAFE HAVEN

They were among the greatest challenges facing ancient mariners – how to navigate around Cape Horn or find the lost continent of Atlantis.

They should have plotted a course down Great Western Road in Aberdeen and turned into Gray Street: they will find them both there.

They are hidden within the walls of the appropriately-named Mariner Hotel. Through the main doors and the Atlantis restaurant sits to the right, or, should I say, starboard and the Cape Horn lounge is portside.

Our destination today was Cape Horn for a bar lunch. It luxuriates in the title of “Grampian bar food of the year” winner. It has a lot to live up to but, judging by the fact that it was packed to the gunnels, word is getting around fast.

The nautical theme is strong, with fine paintings of old sailing vessels in the reception area. The Cape Horn has been lavished with wood panelling on walls and ceilings.

The illusion created was almost like being aboard an 18th century ship from Nelson’s time. I felt like swaying and it wasn’t the drink, I swear.

It was set up as a dining room and we had joined a motley crew of fellow diners: all ages from older types like us to little ones in high chairs and family groups. A large group of women were having a great time on another table, where the wine flowed freely and laughter filled the room.

It promised to be a great Saturday lunch, but I started to feel uneasy. Every table was taken and the three staff, two men and one woman, seemed to be working up a sweat to keep on top of it all. Did this mean my dining nemesis was rearing its ugly head again to ruin my day – slow service?

Fear not, the service was brisk and friendly throughout from the ship’s company, including our charming waitress, a girl from the mid-west of America.

There was a great selection from the menu and specials board and we dabbled with both.

Starters were smoked salmon for me and pate, with toast and sweet pickle for my wife. We loved them both: generous portions and great taste combinations.

Main courses and we went in different directions: my wife was drawn to the “wee plates” section and selected chilli, with cheese and nachos and a Greek salad with feta cheese. With modest-sized plates, you could pick two without feeling guilty.

It was life at sea for me, however, and a plate of grilled fish had my name written all over it.

Two very different selections, but both delivered on taste and quality.

The grilled fish was a dream come true for me. Lightly-grilled, moist and succulent, and beautifully presented by the kitchen, it came from the specials board and was, indeed, very special.

I was not quite sure of everything on the plate, so I asked our waitress to check with the kitchen. It was still busy, but she was back in a flash with the answer: salmon, whiting, herring, smoked haddock, mussels and prawns adorned my plate. What a treat – a dish fit for a sea lord.

We rounded off with a luscious panacotta topped with a generous portion of red berries and a delicious meringue cheesecake.

I can’t really say Cape Horn is a hidden gem because it was full. It certainly lived up to its award-winning reputation.

I feel I should criticise it in some way because I would be failing in my job as a reviewer if I didn’t. But I can’t think of anything negative to say about our visit.

We loved every minute. Their lunch service is spot on – ship-shape, in fact.