Ullapool’s Arch Inn was a welcoming resting place after driving from the east of Scotland to the west.
It had been cold and snowing for most of the journey but, by the time we reached Ullapool, it was raining and there was the promise of an Atlantic storm.
We were staying in the Arch Inn before we headed across the Minch for a first-time visit to Lewis and Harris.
My late father spent five decades repairing electrical faults on fishing boats around the coast of Scotland. A sailor he was not, as he regularly suffered sea sickness, even when working on boats berthed in a harbour.
Ullapool, Kinlochbervie and Lochinver were regular destinations and obviously too many bad experiences, coupled with skippers’ tales of horrendous sea conditions, resulted in him deciding to never cross the Minch.
I can now say that all the horror stories he passed on proved more than true as we found out the following morning when the captain of the MV Isle of Lewis made the courageous decision to sail to Stornoway in the eye of a storm which had whipped up the Minch into a boiling cauldron.
The captain told us, as we departed Ullapool, he would make the journey as comfortable as possible as the sea conditions were “not good”. That was an understatement. I now know exactly what a leaf feels like when it’s battered by a thunderstorm after being jolted up, down, backwards and sideways on a crossing from hell.
If we had known sea conditions were to have been so bad the following day, we might not have dined as well as we did in the Arch Inn that evening.
I joined my travelling companion. She was in the bar reading, while I had gone for a snooze after driving.
The walls of the dining room were surrounded by some wonderful local photographs. But we were at that point the only diners – and it was somewhat cold. The small fan heater in the corner beside us was on full blast, but the heat from it was insufficient to warm the room.
That said, the staff more than made up for it in the warmth of their welcome and service. They were excellent, and attentive.
The menu was simple, with home-made soup, Cullen skink, smoked salmon, scallops and potato gnocchi offered as starters.
There were six mains – roast chicken breast, haddock, a cheese burger, sirloin steak, fish cakes and a Mediterranean vegetable cous cous for those of a vegetarian persuasion.
The menu boasts of the dishes being produced on the premises from fresh, locally sourced products, where possible. But none of the suppliers is mentioned by name on it, sadly.
That said, the smoked salmon was from Ullapool. We both had the pan-fried, hand-dived Achiltibuie scallops.
They were outstanding. There were three big, juicy and perfectly prepared scallops on each plate. They were accompanied by a roast celeriac sauce and curry oil, which complemented them perfectly. And at £7.95, they were excellent value, given that three smaller scallops the following evening in Stornoway cost £11.
Main course for my travelling companion was the beer-battered local haddock. A whale of a haddock appeared for her. It was served with chips, peas and a wonderfully tangy – and outstandingly delicious – home-made tartare sauce. The fish was tremendous and batter wonderfully crispy. The sauce was so good that the foodie thought the Arch Inn should start selling it.
My 8oz sirloin steak was perfection on a plate and cooked just as I ordered it; medium rare. It came with grilled mushroom and, unusually, spinach too. Added to that were four large onion rings in a separate dish.
The dessert offerings included warm chocolate brownie, sticky toffee pudding, creme brulee and a trio of ice creams.
I, however, stuck by the cheese board which had a smoked cheddar, an oh so delightful blue and a gorgeous brie. A superb fruit chutney and oatcakes, albeit crumbly ones, accompanied them.
The service was perfection even down to ordering and serving the wine. Our bottle of Santa Ana Malbec from Argentina’s Mendoza wine-growing region came with a white napkin wrapped around the neck. Now, you don’t see that very often these days, apart from in the very poshest of establishments.
A jug of water with ice and lemon also appeared on the table without any prompting.
It was a magnificent meal and by the time we had finished, the dining room had warmed up a little, with a further six guests which for a Tuesday in winter was probably rather good.
THE ARCH INN
WEST SHORE STREET, ULLAPOOL. PHONE 01854 612454.
2 Scallops £15.90
1 Fish and chips £10.95
1 Sirloin steak £17.95
1 Pepper sauce £2.50
1 Cheese and biscuits £7.50
1 Coffee £2.00
1 Pot of tea £1.50
1 Bottle of Santa Ana Malbec £15.95
Total £74.25
Grace left £10
£84.25