I knew the instant I walked into Elgin’s Sunninghill Hotel that I was going to be in for a dining experience with a difference.
It had been a long day as it had involved travelling from the east coast to an estate beyond Dornie in Lochalsh. Now homeward-bound, this weary traveller was needing his tea.
It was a Saturday night and the hotel was busy, with lots of obviously hungry locals. There was also a group of older sports enthusiasts gathered around the bar downing their pints.
The barman was more than welcoming, asked what I wanted to drink and if I would like to eat. All the tables were booked for later, so I would need to be finished by 7.15pm. With the promise that a three-course dinner could be served in 75 minutes, I took up the offer and was shown to a table beside the bar.
The menu and specials board were immediately taken to me, and without any prompting a jug of water also appeared on the table. What a welcome change when so many seem to grudge serving tap water. Bread appeared almost the moment I sat down too, although the Lichfields-branded butter was a disappointment, especially when catering-sized portions made from Scottish milk are churned out by the Lockerbie Creamery.
The Sunninghill has a wide offering of starters and mains.
It was a delight to see the food suppliers credited on the back of the menu. The beef, lamb and venison is supplied by Aberlour butcher David Brown, the seafood from Lossie Fish Shop and Sutherlands of Portsoy, the pork, sausages, black pudding and haggis from Halls. Elgin’s Speyfruit supplies the fresh fruit and vegetables, while the poultry comes from wholesaler Inverness Farmers. Booker Cash and Carry also supplies meat, fruit and vegetables, while Caledonia’s Larder and Brake Bros are listed too.
Starters from the regular menu included Cullen Skink, pate, Thai spiced fish cakes, a black pudding stack, Tiger prawns, tapas and smoked salmon. The mains took in a variety of offerings such as salmon, scampi, haddock, home-made breaded chicken goujons, beef burger, gammon, pork, duck breast, pastas, medallions of fillet and an interesting sounding Malaysian-style chicken.
I, however, decided to go with one of the two starter specials – the stir-fried squid and prawns with fresh orange segments and a light orange Thai sauce.
It was a generous offering served with green leaves, but the squid could have been fried for a little longer in my opinion. The addition of the orange segments and light orange Thai source meant an interesting taste sensation, but, for me, it didn’t quite work.
I had only one desire for my main – a medium-rare 8oz sirloin steak from the chargrill. It was served with mushrooms, onion rings and a tomato. Vegetables and chips came in separate dishes.
The steak was cooked to perfection and was a good thick slice. It was delicious, with an excellent taste and oh so tender it could have been cut with a butter knife. I had the Italienne sauce – made with tomato, onion and pepper – served with it.
A separate dessert menu listed a variety of dishes featuring Movenpick ice cream. I had the banana split from the specials board; it too was a large serving.
But there are so many wonderful ice cream makers in Moray, including Dougal Simpson at the Ice Cream Cabin in Buckie and Sheila Gray who has received several national awards for the delicious offerings from her Ice Cream Parlour at Fochabers.
It did seem strange that a hotel in Elgin uses a Swiss brand when home-made ice cream of what I would consider a higher quality is available on its doorstep.
The service was tremendous, and the waiter and waitresses were very chatty. The hotel lived up to its promise as I was out the door long before 7.15pm.
SUNNINGHILL HOTEL
HAY STREET, ELGIN. PHONE 01343 547799.
1 Special starter £7.95
1 Sirloin steak £21.95
1 Italienne sauce £2.95
1 Banana split £5.95
Total £38.80
Grace £5
£43.80