More than a decade ago, my wife organised a surprise birthday weekend for us at the Atholl Palace Hotel, Pitlochry.
It was a lovely gesture, and we were both excited about the visit. However, when we arrived, the hotel felt more like the Outlook Hotel in Stanley Kubrick’s film The Shining than it did a grand Highland spa retreat.
In the dining room, barely a noise could be heard bar the occasional clinking of cutlery, which led to a comedy moment when I accidentally set my menu on fire thanks to a candle on the table that I hadn’t noticed.
That was then, though. In 2014, the hotel is a welcoming retreat with warm log fires providing comfort from the chilly winter winds, and friendly staff who offer you a dram on arrival – a very nice touch.
We had returned – after more years than I’d care to remember – to celebrate my birthday once again, this time with our two young children in tow.
Having undergone a serious amount of upgrading and with new management in place, the Atholl Palace is now a warm, welcoming spa hotel offering an array of facilities to help you forget about the strains and stresses of everyday life.
The grandeur of the four-star building is evident at every turn, with roaring log fires not just confined to the rooms, but also to be found in hallways and reception areas, creating a lovely, homely feel throughout.
Having explored the palace with our young son, Charlie, taking in the games room – complete with PlayStations and X-Boxes – having a game of pool, having fun in the gym and going for a swim in the lovely pool, it was time for me to return to the scene of my embarrassment of many years ago – the Verandah Restaurant.
Thankfully, having told Charlie my story in the days leading up to our visit, he very kindly grabbed the candle and blew it out as we sat down, telling me: “That’s so you don’t set fire to your menu, Daddy.” He’s a smart cookie, that one.
And so began an evening of indulgence. I had been looking forward to the food and started with a hearty bowl of special chowder – Scottish white smoked fish, prawns, double cream and seasonal herbs. Despite having his own starter, Charlie very generously helped me with mine, for which I ended up being quite grateful as I had ordered a filling main course of medallions of beef fillet with grain mustard, whisky, baby onion cream, oatmeal skirlie and chipped potatoes.
Opposite me, my wife, not being a glutton, enjoyed a winter salad followed by a brie, beetroot and apple tart. Being a vegetarian, she was pleased to see something different from the norm on the menu. All too often, restaurants offer up the same lacklustre veggie options.
Charlie’s fish and chips got the thumbs-up, as did his sticky toffee pudding. So, too, did the waiting staff, who were attentive and very friendly throughout our stay.
The next morning brought more gluttony with a well-stocked cooked breakfast buffet which I can never say no to, although I did kick things off with some fresh fruit, which negates the calories of black pudding, haggis and the rest of the cooked breakfast – right?
Another trip to the swimming pool beckoned after breakfast – I nearly sank to the bottom after eating too much – and the kids had a fantastic time in there.
For the adults, there is a sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi. And if you are brave enough, a freezing plunge pool to kick-start your morning: bravery was not on my itinerary that day.
Later, we enjoyed a round on the hotel’s putting green, fed the ducks at the pond and took a walk through the peaceful grounds.
That’s the great thing about the Atholl Palace, you can do as little or as much as you want. We chose the former option. Even sitting in front of one of the many open fires, listening to music and admiring the paintings on the walls was a simple pleasure. As was relaxing in the rustic wood-panelled bar with a glass of wine.
The meal on our second evening was even more enjoyable than the first. I was delighted with my kedgeree of east-coast smoked fish, haddock and prawns finished with sweet dill and mild curry cream.
Continuing the fish theme, I plumped for the seared escalope of tuna loin with spiced couscous, Stilton and smoked-salmon cream. My stomach is rumbling just writing about it.
Again, my wife was impressed with the vegetarian offerings and went for the button mushrooms sauteed with cracked peppercorn, whisky and honey cream, followed by mature Cheddar, spinach and green pea penne pasta with parmesan cream.
All the dishes were beautifully presented and well executed and we retired to our room sated and wondering how on Earth we would cope with breakfast the next morning – we did, though.
We left the Atholl Palace with far fonder memories this time than we did years previously, due to its welcoming nature, impressive stature and range of facilities.
The four of us thoroughly enjoyed ourselves as a family. Maybe next time, we’ll leave the kids at home and take full advantage of the spa facilities, plunge pool and that lovely warm bar I mentioned earlier.
The Atholl Palace Hotel also offers wedding and conferencing packages, as well as lodge accommodation within its grounds.
Atholl Palace Hotel, Pitlochry, Perthshire PH16 5LY.
Phone: 01796 472400
E-mail: info@athollpalace.com
Visit: www.athollpalace.com