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‘We turned Fraserburgh’s fire-hit John Trail bookshop into million-pound hotel – and we’re just getting started!’

Have a look inside the newly revamped hotel as the team embarks on another £1.2m venture to restore the former bank next door.

NESPT project director Paul Higson and Esther Slater, owner of the Stag and Thistle Hotel which opened recently at the former John Trail bookshop in Fraserburgh, standing at the stairwell in the disused Clydesdale Bank building.
Local hotelier Esther Slater and NESPT project director Paul Higson are now gearing up to also breathe new life into the disused Clydesdale Bank building next door. Image: Kath Flannery/DC Thomson.

It’s a day many in Fraserburgh still recall with dread.

On the morning of April 7 2009, fierce flames ripped through the town’s John Trail bookshop, causing chaos in the otherwise quiet Mid Street.

Plumes of smoke billowed into the air as the blaze engulfed the store cherished by generations of Brochers.

More than 50 firefighters worked around the clock in desperate efforts to save what was left of the centuries-old building.

But little could be done.

Images from the fire at the John Trail bookshop in 2009.
The fire at the John Trail bookshop was considered as “one of the most fierce and biggest in 10 years” at the time. Image: D Brown.

New hope for fire-ravaged bookshop

As the smoke lifted, the extent of the damage became clear.

The shelves and cabinets that once stored hundreds of books from across the world were torched, barely visible in the piles of ashes covering the floor.

Years after the fire, the blackened walls and rubble remained a reminder of the catastrophe that ended the family-run business.

An article on the fire at the John Trail bookshop in 2009.
Image: DC Thomson.

The once bustling shop was boarded up and crumbled into decay for years.

But when a band of local history enthusiasts swooped to its rescue in 2020, there came a flicker of hope it would be restored to its former glory.

It took three years, and cost more than £1 million, but the North East Scotland Preservation Trust’s (NESPT) vision has now finally come to life.

The staircase at the former John Trail bookshop, showing the damage caused by the fire.
Photos taken in 2019 show the extensive damage inside the bookshop caused by the fire. Image: North East Scotland Preservation Trust.

We visited the redeveloped John Trail bookshop to see it for ourselves. Beyond the transformation of the building, we also found out:

  • The moment historians feared their hard work could collapse at the final hurdle
  • How Esther Slater returned home to Fraserburgh and swapped her career as a social care worker to become the hotel’s new manager
  • And what the future holds for the former Clydesdale bank next door, which has been laying disused for years

‘We had to rebuild John Trail bookshop from scratch’

More than 16 years after the incident, the former John Trail bookshop has been revived as the town’s new boutique hotel and restaurant, the Stag and Thistle.

As we sit at one of the glossy marble tables in the dining area, NESPT project director Paul Higson takes it all in, and begins to explain how they resurrected the building.

The dining area in the Stag and Thistle restaurant.
The Stag and Thistle restaurant was the first to open in April, followed by the hotel rooms in June. Image: Kath Flannery/DC Thomson.

Looking at the polished silverware and neatly folded napkins, it’s hard to imagine this place was once in ruins.

The smell of fresh paint fills your nostrils as you walk into the bright foyer, where a friendly staff member – and a sculpture of a mighty stag – give you a warm welcome.

Now, it adds a spot of grandeur to the heart of Fraserburgh.

But listening to Paul quickly brings back memories of the devastating fire.

One of the damaged rooms in the John Trail bookshop.
NESPT found the former bookshop’s blackened walls crumbling when they came in to carry out a survey a few years ago. Image: North East Scotland Preservation Trust.

“It was no small feat to get to here,” he says. “The building had been completely destroyed – there was nothing left when we first walked in several years ago.

“We knew that if we were to bring it back into use, we had to rebuild it from scratch.”

Why did it take so long?

While this might have been an unusual task, given the trust normally deals with listed buildings of historic significance, they were determined to get the project over the line.

Like many others, the team faced a number of hurdles along the way due to the pandemic – with a shortage of materials and rising costs just a few of them.

Image of the boarded up John Trail bookshop.
The John Trail bookshop was added to the buildings at risk register in 2015 – about six years after it was boarded up.

Finding out who exactly owned the building following the demise of the John Trail company and officially passing it on to NESPT also took some time.

And it seemed like all was lost when the tenants lined up to take it over pulled out, leaving the project in limbo.

Regardless, the £1.4 million revamp was completed in spring 2022 – and NESPT was once again on the hunt for a suitable host.

Profile photo of Paul Higson.
Paul Higson was there every step of the way, while the restoration team was hard at work to revive the building. Image: Kath Flannery/DC Thomson.

“The John Trail bookshop was a landmark of significant value to the town,” Paul says.

“Generations of the same family had been operating it.

“And when it was destroyed in the fire, we came to be in a serious position where we had a derelict building right at the centre of Fraserburgh, standing as a real eyesore.”

The front of the redeveloped John Trail bookshop.
The Stag and Thistle restaurant and hotel will span across two buildings – the former John Trail bookshop and the former Clydesdale bank. Image: Kath Flannery/DC Thomson.

Paul continues: “It was holding back the regeneration of the town, so that’s when we became involved.

“What we’ve done is bring the building back into productive use and create a base for a new business.”

So who is at the helm of former John Trail bookshop now?

Fresh from her travels abroad, born and bred Brocher Esther Slater didn’t hesitate to face a new challenge and took on the recently redeveloped hotel.

Her work as a nurse and social care worker had taken her all across the globe in the last 25 years – including France, Brazil, Angola and Tanzania.

Esther Slater sitting at the Stag and Thistle restaurant, which she opened at the former John Trail bookshop.
Esther Slater hopes to bring “something different and exciting” to the town centre in Fraserburgh. Image: Kath Flannery/DC Thomson.

But her love for Fraserburgh never faded away, and the 50-year-old returned home to be close to her family.

And just months after her arrival last year, she once again embarked on an adventure – this time as a local hotelier.

“It was just the right time and I’m really excited to start something new,” she smiles.

“It’s just good to be back home and there is plenty of scope for loads of new businesses.”

The view from one of the bedrooms at the Stag and Thistle hotel.
The view across the town. Image: Kath Flannery/DC Thomson.

What’s new in the Stag and Thistle?

The former bookshop has been completely revamped to suit as a hotel and restaurant.

It has 11 bedrooms and a dining area, all fitted out to a high standard by Esther and her team.

Work is also under way to extend the restaurant to the courtyard between the hotel and former Clydesdale bank next door, linking the two buildings and adding more space.

One of the bedrooms at the Stag and Thistle hotel, which is located at the former John Trail bookshop.
The bedrooms have been spread out across three floors. Image: Kath Flannery/DC Thomson

It is expected the new dining area will be open to customers by the end of October.

Esther hopes this would not only benefit locals, but also bring more tourists to Fraserburgh and give other businesses a boost too.

She reckons that while there has been a lot of improvement from the “mess” the town centre once was, there is still more that can be done.

“There is definitely a need for it, but people just need to come in and try it,” she says.

Vincent Willox, Paul Higson and Esther Slater standing at the construction site of what would become an extension of the John Trail bookshop.
Some of the original stonework at the bookshop will be preserved as a feature in the Stag and Thistle restaurant and hotel. Image: Kath Flannery/DC Thomson.

“It feels like there is a little bit of reluctance sometimes to try something a little bit different, but I hope people will embrace the Stag and Thistle.”

With a gentle giggle, Esther added: “Generally, folk have been coming in and then booking again, so we must be doing something right.”

And they are far from finished yet…

But what about the bank building next door?

With the paint at the Stag and Thistle barely dry, NESPT and Esther have already formed big plans for the derelict unit next door.

Built in the 1858, the adjoining category B-listed building has always operated as a bank – lastly as a Clydesdale branch.

The bank hall of the former Clydesdale bank.
The windows at the former Clydesdale bank have already been replaced – but there is a lot more work to be done. Image: Kath Flannery/DC Thomson.

But as the company decided to shut its doors in 2017, it has remained disused.

As we walk around piles of rubble in the former bank hall – carefully watching our steps – Paul and Esther explain this could be the hotel’s main entrance one day.

There could also be a bar/bistro on one side to welcome customers with a refreshment as they wait to check in.

An intricate stairwell then takes us to the upper floor where bank managers once used to live with their families.

The staircase leading to the top floor of the former Clydesdale bank.
The staircase leads to the top floor, which could be turned into a function room. Image: Kath Flannery/DC Thomson

This floor is planned to be turned into five additional bedrooms.

But the best part Paul and Esther save for last.

A breathtaking view of the Fraserburgh harbour instantly catches your attention as you reach the top floor.

This, Esther hopes to turn into a function room where people would be able to celebrate weddings and other events.

Inside image of the top floor at the former Clydesdale bank.
The walls on the top floor have been demolished to create a bright open space. Image: Kath Flannery/DC Thomson.

But for all of this to happen, NESPT needs to raise another £1.2m to carry out repairs.

Paul says that while the building seemed in good shape at first, it was plagued by various problems with damp.

Some of the repairs – including on the roof and draining systems – have already been carried out, but there is still a long way to go until it’s completed and fit for use.

Paul Higson and Esther Slater standing outside the former Clydesdale bank in Fraserburgh.
Paul and Esther hope the transformation of the John Trail bookshop and former bank will boost the regeneration of Fraserburgh. Image: Kath Flannery/DC Thomson.

And even though the finish line might not be in sight quite yet, both Esther and Paul remain positive.

As we leave the building, Esther says with a smile: “We have a lot more work ahead of us, but we’ll get there. And when we do, it’s going to be really good.

“Fraserburgh deserves good things, and I hope this can be one of them.”

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