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Hidden history of Braemar’s luxury Fife Arms as Commando ‘mountain warfare’ training centre

Plans have been unveiled for a new plaque that will honour the Fife Arms hotel's history with the elite fighter unit.

The Fife Arms in Braemar
A new commemorative plaque could be installed at the Fife Arms Hotel in Braemar. Image: Kirstie Topp/DC Thomson

Braemar’s Fife Arms Hotel is best known these days as a luxurious five-star hotspot that attracts the rich and famous.

The venue is now owned by millionaire fine art dealers Iwan and Manuela Wirth, who bought it in 2016.

In recent years it has welcomed celebrity guests including actors Dame Judi Dench, James Nesbitt and Hugh Bonneville as they retreat to the rugged Royal Deeside spot to get away from it all.

But, it was once used for a very different purpose – as the base for wartime camps, with elite fighters training in the surrounding snowy mountains.

And plans have been unveiled for a new plaque that will honour the site’s history with the Commandos.

The proposed new plaque at the Fife Arms Hotel in Braemar. Image: Moxon Architects

The sign would be placed at the front of the B-listed historic hotel, making it the first point of note in the Commando Heritage Trail.

It will mark the Fife Arms being the site of the original Commando Snow and Mountain Welfare Training Centre.

What Commando training took place at the Fife Arms?

The centre was initially established at the Braemar site in December 1942.

As the name suggests, it trained Commandos to fight in snow-covered mountain terrain.

It was set up to ensure troops were fit and ready to battle in the most extreme winter conditions.

Commandos taking part in Winter Warfare training near Braemar back in 1942. Image: Frank Smythe Estate

The plaque will give a nod to first Commanding Officer, the well-known Everest climber, Squadron Leader Frank Sidney Smythe.

It will also mention chief instructor Major Sir Henry Cecil ‘John’ Hunt, who famously conquered Mount Everest in 1953.

All of the instructors were well trained and skilled mountaineers, some of whom had experience in the Himalayas and the Alps.

What was the training like?

A book published four years ago by Maureen Kelly and the Braemar Local History Group gave a fascinating insight into what the training was like.

It revealed that those attending the courses didn’t live in the comfortable hotel, but instead in two-man tents on Glen Clunie.

Commandos would endure a tough six-week course that would test them with both tactical and physical exercises.

Commandos during their training near Braemar. Image supplied by Maureen Kelly, Braemar Local History Group

It also stated that the camp back at the Fife Arms was “well stocked with Greenland sledges, ski and snow shoes”.

But the winter of 1942 proved to be milder than hoped for as there was very little snowfall… And that put the plans on ice.

What happened to the training centre?

The Deeside centre was short-lived and was moved to Wales after just five months.

The decision was made in order to give troops more specific rock climbing training.

The proposed new plaque would be installed at the entrance of the Fife Arms Hotel in Braemar. Image: Moxon Architects

By the end of 1943, the centre was relocated to St Ives in Cornwall.

However, the training facility closed for good seven years later.

What is the Commando Memorial Trail?

The Braemar plaque would be the latest to be added to the Commando Heritage Memorial Trail.

Signs will be placed at various locations linked to the life of artist Scott Sutherland and the Commando Memorial statue at Spean Bridge.

The Commando Memorial above Spean Bridge looks out over their training ground, as well as the hills and mountains of Lochaber. Image: Sandy McCook/DC Thomson

Similar plaques have been placed near Scott Sutherland’s birthplace in Wick and Abertay University.

Meanwhile, a future sign could be making its way to Robert Gordon University in Aberdeen.


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