Aberdeen’s East Kirk may not look like much from the outside.
But, peering down into a 7ft crypt once filled with medieval skeletons and surrounded by remnants of its past as a witches prison, it soon becomes clear this is one of the city’s most fascinating hidden gems.
Volunteers behind an ambitious renovation project at the Kirk of St Nicholas site invited us in to show how the building is rising from the grave.
It comes after arts group Edinburgh Palette recently took over the adjoining West Kirk, main tower and Drum Isle.
They are currently seeking permission from Aberdeen City Council to carry out a number of upgrades at the historic site.
However, their belief that the East Kirk was in “disarray” hit a nerve with the Open Space Trust who have spent years working on it…
A lot going on in Aberdeen East Kirk
The charity is overseeing a project aimed at transforming the kirk into a “world class” heritage centre.
Project leader Arthur Winfield and chairman Forbes McCallum showed me that, in fact, quite a lot is going on inside.
We learn:
- How the East Kirk was a witches prison many years ago
- What has been happening to bring it back to its former glory
- How this “was a special place and will be again”
What is happening at St Mary’s Chapel?
As we enter St Mary’s Chapel, the part of the building facing St Nicholas Square, we are greeted by workers who are busy plastering the walls and ceiling.
Extensive work has been taking place since April to bring the historic venue back into use.
Its delicate and unique stained glass windows have been boarded up to protect them from damage, while a pew dating from 1606 is hidden away too.
Wooden paneling dating from the 1600s has been removed and is being restored, to be reinstalled once the works are done.
Gravestones underfoot are also protected by temporary coverings.
The walls had been left bare since the chapel was built in the mid 1400s.
However, plaster was finally applied in the 1970s which later turned out to be the wrong type for the historic site.
“The chapel had been suffering so it had to be replaced, right back to the stonework,” Arthur explained.
Now, the building has three coats of the appropriate plaster which should protect it for decades to come.
This part of the project started in April and is on schedule to be complete by November.
Aberdeen East Kirk is ‘full of stories’
As we creep carefully around the chapel, Arthur tells me about its “absolutely fascinating” history and quirky design features.
Every nook and cranny appears to hold its own story.
I’m gobsmacked to learn that, during the witch trials in 1596, the building was used as a prison for women accused of being in league with the devil.
A witches ring, still visible in the church to this day, was used to shackle those accused of using otherworldly powers for evil deeds.
Meanwhile, the end of every ribbed vault has a unique carving.
A particularly noticeable one on my visit featured a rat, or so I thought.
But Arthur’s not convinced it resembles the rodent.
“To me, it looks more like an otter,” he suggests.
“There would have been a lot of otters in this area. What we think of as the harbour now was a muddy estuary back in the mid 1400s.”
Carving backs up claim about game of golf
A carving above us is believed to represent Adam and Eve.
And a figure believed to be a mermaid was found underground by architects when they lowered the floor as part of wheelchair access works.
Another carving, some say, is Aberdeen’s claim to have invented golf.
“It’s a chap on his side but he’s got something like a club in his hand and he looks like he has just hit a tee,” Arthur says as he points to it.
“Given that it dates from mid 1400s it pre-dates anything to do with St Andrews – but that’s probably totally fictional,” he says with a chuckle.
Arthur goes on to tell me the building is “full of stories” and adds: “It was a special place and it will be again.”
More work required at Mither Kirk
New lighting has been fitted around the chapel and is ready to be switched on.
Previously there were just three fluorescent tubes to brighten up the place which didn’t really fit the historic site.
The renovation project will see electric heating added to the church for the very first time, while fire and intruder alarms are also being installed.
But the main Mither Kirk hall presents a bigger challenge.
Currently, the four-storey building has been ripped apart with floor levels missing and doors seemingly leading to nowhere.
In the middle of it all is a 7ft deep concrete crypt which has been secured.
The skeletons inside were subject of some controversy a few years back after they were disturbed by vandals who had broken in through the tower in the West Kirk.
However, all of the bones were recovered and have been safely laid to rest for good by Aberdeen City Council.
Teams of archaeologists carried out a dig at the church back in 2006.
Dig cost ‘the best part of £1 million’
Historians started their excavation work in January and finished the week before Christmas that same year.
Arthur revealed the dig cost “the best part of £1 million” and was a huge undertaking.
“There were teams of archaeologists here, not just one person with a trowel, filling a skip with soil each day,” he explained.
Works have also unveiled brickwork which dates before 1050 and is believed to be the oldest visible wall in Aberdeen.
This part of the church still needs to be reconstructed, but work will be carried out there once St Mary’s Chapel is complete.
‘There is a lot of history here’
Back in 2010, major external works were carried out at the kirk including repairs to the roof and restoration of its stained glass windows.
One particular window was the first piece designed by local artist Douglas Strachan who later went on to “big things”.
Arthur revealed: “The war memorial at the top of Edinburgh Castle, all of that glass work is his.
“There is a lot of history here, you’ll inevitably get that in a building of this age.”
But the chapel has been used since the internal works began.
Last summer, The Locked Door team developed an escape room experience based on the witch trials and held it there.
“Some people got worried seeing witches hats and broomsticks in the chapel but it was to create an atmosphere,” Arthur told me with a smile.
What is next for the Aberdeen East Kirk?
However, the Open Space Trust is looking to widen the use of the building once the restoration work is complete.
The United Reform Church will use it for services once a month, but other groups can use it as a meeting or event space if they want.
As the work continues, the Open Space Trust hopes to meet with Edinburgh Palette as they want to establish a close relationship with their new neighbours.
Arthur added: “There is obviously a lot of things that we need to discuss.”
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