When Michelin chef Kevin Dalgleish decided it was finally time to open his own restaurant in Aberdeen, he didn’t look far to find the right spot.
The 52-year-old had been dishing out top-class meals at the Chester Hotel in the city’s west end for about a decade by that point.
And when the former No.1 Bar & Grill across the road went up for grabs in 2022, he knew this was a great opportunity to take the next step in his flourishing career.
Fast forward to present day, Amuse by Kevin Dalgleish has won several prestigious awards and is a firm favourite of foodies all across the north-east.
Business has been doing so well in the last two years that Kevin is now even plotting an expansion into the former offshore offices next door on Queen’s Terrace.
But what is the allure of the west end?
And why did Kevin opt to transform a downtrodden unit there – instead of taking over one of the already revamped properties in the city centre?
“The west end is just a nicer part of the city,” he smiles as the aroma of freshly ground coffee fills the air and we sit at one of the already set and polished tables at Amuse.
“We have plenty of parking, there are also plenty of people living in this area so they can just walk here and feel safe doing so. And, of course, the buildings are beautiful.
“All of these were important factors we considered when we moved in.
“It’s been two years now, and we get more and more people coming through the door.”
Coming up on the menu:
- Kevin explains how the expansion idea came about
- Why the chef opted against moving into one of the pavilions at Union Terrace Gardens
- Whether Aberdeen needs more restaurants
- And what it takes to “weather the storm” during tough times for hospitality
Kevin Dalgleish: ‘It was time for us to grow – with new private dining area’
It’s barely 10am when I meet Kevin at Amuse, but he is already rushed off his feet, working out the final details of their new menu which is to be launched that evening.
The culinary master prides himself in making the most of local seasonal produce, changing his offering several times a year to showcase the ingredients at their best.
This is perhaps one of the reasons Amuse has become so popular, Kevin reckons.
And now he wants to build on the restaurant’s sterling reputation by opening a new function area for private dining.
The restaurant will be extended into the dilapidated basement of the oil and gas offices next door, creating more space for weddings, birthday parties or corporate events.
Kevin explains this isn’t so much about increasing capacity, but taking the venue to the next level and giving customers more options.
He adds: “We are ready for expansion – we’ve got a great team that has been here since the start, revenue is on the up and we have a steady flow of customers.
“We opened during a peak when everything was so expensive – energy bills, the food, the rates were ridiculous – but we managed to weather that storm.
“Now that we are seeing light at the end of the tunnel, we can look at refining it.
“It’s all about keeping the standards right – cooking good local produce, and cooking it nicely. And then if this works, we can see where we go from there.”
But why pick the west end – and not the city centre?
But expanding the restaurant into the unit next door wasn’t his initial idea.
Last year, Kevin looked at several other properties in Aberdeen with the intention of opening a second venue.
He admits that the thought of setting up a restaurant in the city centre did cross his mind, and he pondered taking over one of the pavilions in Union Terrace Gardens.
But the more he got into it, the more he was convinced this isn’t the right option for his business – as the unit wasn’t quite right and he would need to double his staff.
“There were too many factors that didn’t really work for us,” Kevin adds.
“It was too small, the rent was too high, and then there are so many restrictions in the city centre – limited parking, bus lanes, LEZ…
“I don’t drive there myself any more, so I get why customers wouldn’t either.
“I don’t know why they are trying to alienate the city centre with unnecessary restrictions when there are a lot of shops there that are already struggling.”
What does the future hold for Aberdeen?
To some extent, the city centre’s loss could end up the west end’s gain, however.
Having worked in renowned establishments all across the UK and Europe, the top chef has a different perspective on the Granite City and its struggles.
Kevin openly says he finds it “ridiculous” to see so many For Sale and To Let signs plaguing a street as beautiful as Queen’s Terrace.
And the best thing would be, of course, to breathe new life into these abandoned units – whether that would be turning them into flats or another business.
He adds that we are a long way from becoming the next Edinburgh or London, but a lot more could be done to bring properties back into use if there is more support to do so.
And could these be new restaurants? Does Aberdeen need more hospitality venues?
Kevin doesn’t even hesitate to answer: “Yes – but we need good restaurants that use local produce and do it right.
“There are a handful of restaurants that are doing what they should, and we have the best produce in the world – fish, lobster, lamb, roe deer, it’s all on our doorstep.
“The skillset in Aberdeen is not quite there compared to Edinburgh and Glasgow, or London – mainly because there are fewer hotels and then less staffing.
“There is not much here, but it is getting slightly better I think. It will be interesting to see what’s going to happen with Union Street.”
‘Running a restaurant is not easy – but it’s worth it’
My time is up, and Kevin needs to return back to the kitchen, where – I can imagine – his staff are impatiently waiting for him to give guidance on all preparations for the day.
We conclude our conversation on a positive note, as he says running the restaurant has been the highlight of his career – no matter how hard it might have been at times.
And while the capital or Glasgow could be an opportunity in future, he says Aberdeen is the place for him for now and he is devoted to making Amuse a thriving success.
“There is always something to kick you in the teeth, so you just have to keep going,” Kevin adds, finishing up his cup of coffee.
“Running a restaurant is not easy…You’ve got to have experience, to be driven and have your finger on the pulse every day, and be involved in all sides of the business.
“Believe in yourself, believe in your staff, believe in your restaurant and you can get through it.”
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