Fashion comes and goes but demand for traditional Highland Dress is as strong as ever.
For nearly 70 years Ian Chisholm and his family have ensured everyone from wedding guests to film stars and royalty have been properly kitted out.
The business continues to grow and is perfectly placed to benefit from an expected surge of interest in all things Highland when the redeveloped Inverness Castle opens as a major tourist attraction.
Family firm selling kilts to the stars
Chisholms Highland Dress has been operating in the shadow of the city’s main landmark since 1956.
Ian’s parents, Duncan and Charlotte, started the operation that grew into one of Scotland’s best-known kiltmaking businesses.
Duncan’s uncle, Sgt Major Willie Chisholm, was master kiltmaker to the Cameron Highlanders at their Inverness barracks.
The company supplied many leading Scottish entertainers, including Jimmy Logan, the Alexander Brothers, Calum Kennedy and Andy Stewart.
It later attracted an international clientele, including dancer Wayne Sleep and Hollywood film star Charlton Heston.
Heston, who had family links to Beauly and was friends of the then Lovat Fraser clan chief, was measured for a kilt at the Castle Street premises.
But, recalls Ian, the Ben Hur star appeared at an event in New York wearing the traditional outfit the wrong way round (ie pleats at the front) and had to make a hasty exit to fix the error.
Grateful clients around the world
Ian, now managing director and owner, started in the family business as a 10-year-old unpaid message boy before joining officially in 1966.
He worked alongside brothers Duncan, now retired, and the late Alan who went on to open a shop in Elgin.
Over the years he has helped design and make kilts for customers from toddlers to a 98-year-old.
A file on his desk brims with messages from grateful clients around the world and press cuttings about some more famous customers.
Chisholms provided kilts for some guests at Madonna and Guy Ritchie’s wedding at Skibo Castle.
At the request of a tabloid newspaper, Ian also helped make a special kilt for the couple’s four-month-old son Rocco who was christened in Dornoch Cathedral.
TV presenter Timmy Mallett also enjoyed Chisholm’s customer service and the firm supplied kilts for the BFG film that was partly shot in the Highlands.
This year, Swiss chef Andreas Caminada, known for being the youngest three-star chef in Europe, and German model and influencer Caro Duar were measured for kilts during the making of a TV show in Scotland.
More kiltmakers needed to keep up with demand
In addition, the business has served members of the royal family, many Highland estates and numerous pipe bands at home and abroad, as well as those seeking kilts for weddings and other special events.
“We’ve been very fortunate with customers”, says Ian. “We get a lot of business through word-of-mouth.
“But we have always stuck to the finest quality materials and tailoring. That makes the beauty of the kilt.
“It’s very much still in demand. I thought a number of years ago it was bound to peak, but no. We’ve never been so busy.”
The number of orders is such that deliveries of new kilts that previously took four weeks now take four months.
Ian hopes to add to the five kiltmakers among the 10-strong staff in the business to keep pace.
That demand is likely to increase when the £36 million castle redevelopment, which Ian can see progress daily from his window across the road, opens to the public.
The attraction will feature Highland folklore and traditions, making a kiltmaker just yards away an obvious port of call.
Adapting to changing trends
“It will make a big difference. Many people came in here and could see the castle but couldn’t visit because it was a court.
“I think it will be good for the city and all the traders should benefit from it.
“It’s right on our doorstep and will bring in a lot more people I would say.”
While traditional Highland dress is still a big seller, the business has adapted to changes in style.
Tartan trews have become more popular and younger customers tend to prefer brighter and more colourful kilts.
Chisholms has also created its own tartan – the Pride of the Highlands – as well as bespoke designs for individuals.
“Rather than going for traditional tartan, many are going for more colorations and we have made special tartans for them from their own design”, Ian says.
“The older generation tend to be very traditional. Grandparents or parents buying a kilt for an 18th or 21st birthday sometimes want the family tartan.
“But it’s something the person is going to have for a lifetime so you have to be sure it’s something they like.”
‘I’m still thoroughly enjoying working’
Now 78, Ian continues to enjoy working, but has thought of taking a step back.
However, with the next generation of Chisholms busy with other careers, there is a chance he will be the last family link to the business.
“The great thing is that I’m still thoroughly enjoying it.
“And as long as I’m still able and fit I’d like to continue.”
Join our Facebook group for the latest news and updates from Inverness
Conversation