Growing up, all Michael Dawson wanted to do was be a butcher in Elgin – following in the footsteps of his father Hamish, grandfather James MacPherson and great-grandfather James Charles.
Today he is the fourth generation of a family that has been serving customers in the town centre for an incredible 135 years since 1889.
The name JC Dawson still stands above the door, and it’s a legacy Michael takes seriously.
Michael himself has been in the trade for nearly 60 years, starting by helping out tidying up when he was 11 before quickly jumping on a messenger bike delivering orders across Elgin.
He took the reins of the family business in his mid-20s and despite being 70 years old now, insists he continues to have the drive, creativity and passion to begin work at 6am every day.
And despite the big day being still a few months away, his team is already hard at work preparing for a Christmas that last year saw him serve up more than 300 turkeys and more than two tonnes of chipolata sausages.
- The Press and Journal visited JC Dawson butchers on Batchen Street in Elgin town centre to hear what sets the business apart from cheaper supermarkets.
- How customers’ desires changed during Michael’s time behind the counter.
- Why he believes innovation is critical for small businesses to succeed.
- The inside story on how he delivers Christmas dinner for hundreds of families every year.
- And why a butcher is for every day, not just for Christmas.
Mother’s mantra continues to guide JC Dawson butchers
JC Dawson butchers began on Elgin High Street in 1889 in a building where M&S stands today, roughly where the picture of cheese is in the window.
It wasn’t until 1922 that the family firm moved to Batchen Street where LCTG Hairdressing most recently was, before settling into its current home in 1932.
All Michael ever wanted to do growing up was join the family firm as a butcher.
After 11 years on his bike delivering orders across Elgin and beyond, he finally got behind the counter full-time when he was 22 before taking on the business himself just three years later.
Forty-five years on, he insists greeting and gabbing with his regular customers every day still gives him the drive to continue work.
He said: “I know I’m past retirement age. To be honest though, I love coming to work every day.
“The customers aren’t just my customers, they’re my friends. I’m into the third generation of serving some families.”
Competition is tougher than ever for small businesses with pressure from the big supermarkets.
Michael explained that he’s always run his business by three lessons given to him by his mum Dolly, who continued to work with him in the butcher after his father retired.
He said: “First, it was keep a clean shop. Two, give good quality. And three, pay attention to your customer.
“We talk to our customers. We do look after them, and it’s genuine, it’s not an act put on.”
How JC Dawson butchers have moved with the times
When Michael began working in the family business in the 1960s, the products that filled the counter were very different.
Back then, it was predominantly filled with meat still on the bone.
However, with more options than ever before shoppers are prioritising convenience more than ever.
It means that meat that was previously on the bone is already diced or minced while the sight of cuts already marinated and seasoned ready for grills and barbecues is commonplace.
Chicken, steak and mince pies are also incredibly popular with customers looking for oven-ready options.
Michael told the Press and Journal that customers are also now more knowledgeable than ever before.
He said: “What we’re seeing now is a lot of younger people who want that service you can’t get in the supermarket.
“And they’ll ask questions, like where we source our meat. I don’t mind folk asking us, because they’re the customer, they’re buying, and I’ll happily tell them.
“I like to keep everything as normal and as natural as possible.
“Back about 10 years ago I started doing my own bacon. I learned how to do it, not using that nitrate that they say isn’t good for you.
“I don’t believe in taking shortcuts. I wouldn’t sell anything I wouldn’t give my own family.”
For the record, Michael told the Press and Journal almost all his meat is sourced from Dingwall-based John M Munro and Grantown-based Millers of Speyside.
Innovation has been critical to Elgin butchers survival
Sausages and burgers are staples of any modern-day butcher, and JC Dawson is no different.
Constantly reinventing the timeless barbecue favourites ensures Michael still has the “driving passion” for staying at the top of his trade.
Standing proudly behind the counter of the Elgin butchers are awards JC Dawson has won from industry experts for their creative and delicious flavours.
There are gold awards for pork and plum and pork and marmalade sausages and malt whisky haggis truffles.
But the one Michael is most proud of is a special diamond award for chilli and honey steak burgers he devised himself.
He said: “Even though I’m 70, I’ve still got a driving passion for creating different ideas. It’s what brings me to work every day.
“I’m really proud of all the awards, because it’s everything that our customers buy. There’s no cheating or anything like that, everything I put in is really popular.
“The only difference is that when you’re putting sausages in the competition they’ve got to be the right size and everything like that, but I know what size my customers will buy.
“It’s changed so much nowadays. Folk used to come in and ask for sliced shoulder steak, or something like that.
“You’ve got to move with the times. I’ve still got that passion and creativity to keep moving with them though.”
How JC Dawson butchers delivers Christmas every year for Elgin families
Convenience in the kitchen has even reshaped how families prepare what is arguably the most anticipated meal of the year – Christmas dinner.
Full turkeys were undoubtedly once the go-to as the centrepiece for get-togethers.
However, today it is actually the least popular option for families as they instead go for easier-to-prepare options.
Last year Dawson’s sold more than 200 boneless turkey butterflies alongside about 100 capon chickens.
While some customers stay traditional and order a full turkey, there were only a few dozen ordered last year.
Michael said: “The butterfly is what families want now because it’s so convenient to cook. There’s no bones to tidy away after.”
Preparations for the butcher begin months in advance, with Michael taking a few days away from the store earlier this month to order vital supplies.
Order books also opened up this month for those eager to book early.
In the run-up to the big day, customers will queue down the street to collect their turkeys from the butcher.
And Michael and his team have been known to work through the night until 6am or 7am to ensure the orders are exactly right.
He said: “The only time I don’t enjoy coming to work is the 24th.
“I get that feeling in my stomach at Christmas. I’m so anxious all the orders are right. Once we shut on Christmas Eve, I can relax.”
A butcher can be for every day, not just for Christmas
While Christmas is undoubtedly the busiest time for Dawson’s, the Elgin butcher faces competition from supermarkets every day of the year.
Michael told the Press and Journal that while he values his once-a-year customers, encouraging them to become more regular could make a big difference.
He said: “It does hurt we don’t have some customers more regularly, but I’m not alone in that.
“I had one customer come in and say ‘I always come here for Christmas because I know it will always be right.’
“And that’s ok, I’ve got to take what I can get because nowadays it’s very hard being in business.
“Times change, and you’ve got to accept it and move with them. It’s up to me to create things, diversify, and listen to ideas from my younger staff.
“Just getting some of those once-a-year customers in once-a-month would make a big difference.”
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